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Swedish_Chef

Kong GiGi vs New Alp Plaquette vs Reverso?

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Since this have only been partly discussed before I bring up the subject again...

Which one of the above (or perhaps somethin else) should I get and which are only another useless piece weighing down the rack?

 

I want a light belay device for bringing up 2 seconds , take photos, rap on etc for use with double ropes in the alpine. No problemos getting any one of them since I am one of those Euros... [Razz]

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Hey, I like the Reverso. It might be a bit heavier than the gi-gi, but it works better for belaying the leader (like an ATC). The only thing I have found that is important to keep in mind, the Reverso seems to have less friction (then an ATC) when rappeling with skinny ropes. I use two biners to get a little more friction.

 

I haven't used the other one.

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The new Trango B-52 looks very promising, and I've heard that Petzl will be making a new Reverso that is better for skinny ropes.

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I was considering a reverso after someone demonstrated how cool it was over my atc. do you know when this new version is expected?

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Did anyone have issues with the reverso when the anchors were below or at waist level with 2 ropes? seemed like much a pain in the ass to me and I preferred to not use it in the hyped up manner of belaying 2 followers in this situation. I guess it's really not a design flaw initially but it almost seemed like the device was rendered useless in this situation if you asked me since the rope management sucked ass. Maybe perfect belays work better [Confused]

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Caveman,

 

Yeah, it does kinda suck if the power-point of the anchor is down low. If that is the case I ussualy just go off my waist. But most of the time I just try to rig high and go straight of the anchor, it's safer anyway if the power-point is above your waist (for several reasons that I'm sure you are aware of).

 

Let me give an example:

 

I led up the 1st pitch of the Gendarm on Stuart with a doubled 37m 7.8mm chord. The rope barely reached enough for me to belly flop onto the ledge. I riged an anchor with a crodelet extended down below the ledge, and could barely get enough slack to clove hitch in. Then I put the Reverso on the chordelette biner and belayed my bro up with two strands.

 

He is a big heavy guy and had to hang a couple of times. The thin (7.8mm) ropes did not slip under his body weight, but I was holding them very tight just in case, with an extra knot back-up. Pulling in the slack was a pain in the ass.

 

I don't know what this example illustrates actually, but I think you can get a few important details out of it. [chubit]

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I used the GiGi about a year before going to the reverso. I like the reverso and wouldnt go back.

 

Alex

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Check out the B52 from Trango. 2.2 oz. I used mine on a recent Middle Teton ice climb to belay the follower on a single 7.6mm rope (Sterling) for about 8 pitches. Haven't used it yet with 2 ropes but it worked flawlessly with plenty of friction for 1. We encountered a late afternoon storm on the summit block and rapped off the mountain (18 raps total) down the Ellingwood couloir, which has plenty of vert and overhanging cliffs. With the skinny rope, the overhangs are a bit trying but you can play with the B52 and a carabiner to increase friction some, and I found it to work fine. It's easier to rig and less obtrusive than a reverso, which I've used a lot as well. Looking forward to more time with the B52.

Ryan

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Right on Lamster,

 

I guess I could have ditched the word useless. However it really is not good to belay off the anchors if they are way low from what I have found.

 

There has been a time when that was my only option to get anchors low down. Then I tried it and it did not perform. The bad part about finding out that way is that it's too late to take your partner off belay you just have to deal with it for that pitch.

 

[ 10-08-2002, 10:26 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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I love my Gi-Gi for belaying up one or two followers on skinny ropes. Been meaning to check out the Reverso since it seems to have the best of all worlds. Let us know what you get and why.

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quote:

Originally posted by snoboy:

The B-52 looks great. I've never even seen one though.

[Wazzup] magic eyes or something.

 

My complaints with the reverso:

1) too skinny for fat ropes = too many calories wasted in belaying. Kinda dumb when you get more pumped belaying than climbing.

 

2) too wide for skinny ropes. the extra carabiner trick works but is an unsatisfying compromise.

 

3) CLANK CLANK CLANK ... [Mad][Mad][Mad] ... I even tried taping mine up to cut down on the noise, but then the tape started peeling and jamming on the rope, further aggravating problem 1).

 

I've used the Plaquette. I like the Yates one a little better because it's smaller but I haven't done an in depth study of the features. Munter hitch directly off the anchor weighs less with lots of friction. Not autolocking but very nearly so.

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quote:

Originally posted by fern:

quote:

Originally posted by snoboy:

The B-52 looks great. I've never even seen one though.

[Wazzup]

magic eyes or something.

 

My complaints with the reverso:

1) too skinny for fat ropes

2) too wide for skinny ropes.

3) CLANK CLANK CLANK ...
[Mad][Mad][Mad]
...

I should have said "never even _fondled_ one"

 

1&2 sum it up. Does that mean it is just right for "skinny Fat ropes"? Seriously, what do people find the best size rope with the Reverser?

 

I never seem to hear it CLANKing over the hexes though.

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Hip belay weighs less than either Reverso or Plaquette and if you have 3 arms you can belay 2 seconds at once with it [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by snoboy:

[1&2 sum it up. Does that mean it is just right for "skinny Fat ropes"? Seriously, what do people find the best size rope with the Reverser?

 

I never seem to hear it CLANKing over the hexes though.

9mm

 

The size and shape of the brake biner make a difference also, I use a round pear shape locker like the Petzl Attache.

 

[ 10-08-2002, 03:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

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the reverso is the bomb. i have a b52 but i much prefer the reverso. it's so much smoother for belaying off an anchor than the b52. imho the b52 needs skinnier ropes or else there's too much friction (or at least enough to be annoying as hell). and make sure the 'biner you're putting through it isn't too clunky either.

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Never used the Gi-Gi or the B-52 either but...

 

I dig the reverso in a big way. Seems to do every job well and beats the hell out of the ATC+Gri-Gri combo I used to bring along when I wanted the same sort of functionality. For $21 you can't go wrong.

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Hey fellas, thanks for the advice. The B-52 might be the shit but I don't think I will be able to get my hands on that one outside the US. Plus i kinda like the feature of having the device clipped to the harness all the time just adding biners when preparing to rap off. (I glanced through the manual and it seems like you set up the '52 just like a normal ATC, right????)

 

I will go to Chamonix for the winter season in a couple of months so I guess I could find out myself. Just wanted to hear some input from you guys though because I don't trust some crazy ass French dudes [geek]

 

[ 10-09-2002, 07:36 AM: Message edited by: Swedish Chef ]

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Lambone:

 

You can "scramble" down the southwest coulior safely. caution would be as always, snow, ice, rain conditions in the coulior. No need to rap middle teton unless you wanted to get to the lower saddle without going back through Garnett canyon.

 

[big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Alex:

I used the GiGi about a year before going to the reverso. I like the reverso and wouldnt go back.

 

Alex

I've used the Reverso quite a bit and the GiGi a little. Here are my thoughts:

 

None of them work good on a low anchor. The Reverso can be hard to pull a lot of fat rope thru fast. Guide friends say it contributes to elbow problems [Roll Eyes] <wahmbulance>. I've seen them wearing out quick on the edge just above the petzl logo. We don't have 2 versions yet but we've got 2 colours! I wouldn't go back to the Pyramid/GiGi rig.

 

The B-52 looks great. I've never even seen one though.

 

Make sure you know how to unload them in case yer buddy gets beaned by a rock.

 

I'm gonna stop thinking now, and go back to work. [smile]

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if you haven't looked closely at the Omega Pacific SBG it might be worth your while. it's lighter and more compact than the reverso, & dead simple to rig in any of three configurations (each yielding a different amount of braking friction). I habitually climb on doubled skinny ropes, and quite often handle two seconds simultaneously, and the SBG performs flawlessly for me. last time I checked, it was available through Barrabes.

-Curt

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I agree with Lambone! if the power point is below the waist then you should just belay from the belay loop. But if you still hook it up in the autoblock method is easier than belaying like an ATC.

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The reverso is just fine for single ropes - 10 - 10.5 mm, and just fine for standard half-ropes (8.5mm). I enjoy the fact that I don't have to constantly feed it when on rappel, but yeah, maybe for caving or if you're constantly doing free-hanging raps you might want some more friction (or a prussik backup).

If you're actually climbing with 11 mm or fatter ropes, then the only device that won't be a real pain in the ass is a sport-rigged figure 8 (and forget about belaying two seconds or autolocking), or maybe a gri-gri (same problem).

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