Placing bolts

[Jamin]

If you climbed a 5.1 you can bet that the decent is the climbing route. Ten again if you had more experience in the hills you would know that. It also seems you were neglagent in your resurch for the route in the first place. Looking on summitpost is a very basic thing to do.

 

The guy who posted on summitpost did not rappel down the route. I always check out summitpost before I climb mountains. Unfortunately, for many mountains route information is still limited. There was no information at all for where I went this weekend.

 

I mainly do alpine climbing on mountains that are not extremely popular.

[letsroll]

lol guess I should have said to be clear. The decent was teh climbing route. A.K.A. Down climb the 5.1 route. Guess if the guy on summit post did not rap the route then he called up his heli to pluck him off the mountain cause there is no other possible way to get down other than rapping. Or maybe there is?????? down climb the 5.1 route?? No that would be way too hard. Nobody would ever do such a crazy thing.

[Jamin]

I thought about it, but I decided to rap. Mucho exposure.

[letsroll]

lol.... MMMM mucho exposure....and that was not a problem going up.

[builder206]

(mean snarky comment deleted)

Edited September 5, 2007 by builder206

[ClimbingPanther]

lol.... MMMM mucho exposure....and that was not a problem going up.

yeah, seriously. If you can get up with gear, you can get down with gear. meditate on the profundity :buddha:

[high_on_rock]

My personal preference is often to go out without looking at the guidebooks. Guidebooks lessen the adventure of discovery. If I am doing "established" trade-routes, then I want everything I can get out of the guidebook; but backcountry, it is nice to be surprised. I like Jamin's sense of adventure and willingness to face the unknown.

[Jamin]

Hey, hindsight is always 20 20.

 

So let me guess, none of you guys have ever done something dumb on a climb.

[Alex]

Is there a lightweight way to place bolts so I can ensure that this situation does not happen.

 

Prussik back up to the previous rap station, and try again. There will be something, somewhere, to set up a rap with. Perhaps not in the fall line, and perhaps not at a full rope-length...

Edited September 5, 2007 by Alex

[Bug]

..... I like Jamin's sense of adventure and willingness to face the unknown.

Yes. It is great.

But if you do a search on his posts and read some of the threads, you will see that he has a "habit" of doing things that may shorten his life span and worse still, his and someone else's.

 

I am genuinely concerned for his well being and for the well being of anyone who goes out with him.

 

I do not say this as spray or to be mean.

He has been offered by at least a couple of us to go out and get some coaching on alpine safety techniques and general experience. But even that is beginning to seem too dangerous to me. There seems to be an inflated ego involved. Couple that with a big cliff and an inexperienced climber............

 

I post this in the newbies section as a warning to other newbies.

 

Sorry if it offends anyone, including Jamin. I think it would be irresponsible for all of us on this board to let these antics go by without a critical assesment. Yes, from an armchair but consistently scarey reports keep surfacing.

 

Just by way of identifying the source, I have been climbing alpine etc for 35+ years. None of my coaches/mentors and climbing partners nor I have ever been seriously injured while climbing. Doing first ascents in the Bitterroots was where I cut my teeth. Adventure climbing at its best.

 

It is my opinion that Jamin is dangerous to himself and anyone who goes out with him.

I wish him well.

[RuMR]

gene pool is gettin' a cleanin'!

[lizard_brain]

 

[Jamin]

Bug, have you ever climbed to the top of West Trapper. My brother and I tried to climb that one this summer. We were running late and I climbed the wrong spire. The real summit spire was about 5-10 feet higher, and it looked like the pro would have been shoddy. Any info about that climb would be appreciated.

[mkporwit]

I had some prusik material in my pack, but it would have been difficult to get.

 

So get hands-free on the rappel (leg wrap/autoblock/mule hitch on the device/whatever), clip your pack loop, and get at the contents of your pack. Problem solved.

 

Is there a place to get an inexpensive drill kit somewhere that I can hang off my harness. I sort of want to be able to rappel anything and not to have to choose my descent routes.

 

Try drilling a 3/8" bolt hole with a hand drill in granite sometime. Just be sure to clear your calendar for the afternoon.

[Bug]

No. Post a TR.

I've done North Trapper and Main Trapper. Both by multiple routes. The ridge between Main and North has a West face that is mostly 3rd and 4th class with a little 5.6 at the top and lots of trees. Good descent to N Trapper creek in a pinch. Watch out for those afternoon thunderstorms until cold weather sets in.

[Gary_Yngve]

This is the TR Jamin was referring to:

 

http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7961737

 

 

[high_on_rock]

I remember reading in one of John Roskelley's books, that during his youth while he was stretching his wings, numerous folks predicted a young death, and even went to tell his parents that the kid was going to kill himself.

 

I am not comparing Jamin to John, but I do recognize that Jamin's willing and adventurous spirit could lead him to great accomplishments if he can stay alive long enough to learn. Learn Jamin, Learn!

[rob]

Is there a place to get an inexpensive drill kit somewhere that I can hang off my harness. I sort of want to be able to rappel anything and not to have to choose my descent routes.

 

Choosing your descent route is an important part of the climb. You cannot just "rap anything" and not worry about which route you descend. Plenty of reasons why you cannot do this have been mentioned. Make sense now? Be safe, bro.

Edited September 6, 2007 by robmcdan

[Bug]

I remember reading in one of John Roskelley's books, that during his youth while he was stretching his wings, numerous folks predicted a young death, and even went to tell his parents that the kid was going to kill himself.

 

I am not comparing Jamin to John, but I do recognize that Jamin's willing and adventurous spirit could lead him to great accomplishments if he can stay alive long enough to learn. Learn Jamin, Learn!

 

Go climb with him and post a TR.

[Jamin]

I would be up for that.

[mattp]

Try drilling a 3/8" bolt hole with a hand drill in granite sometime. Just be sure to clear your calendar for the afternoon.

 

It takes 15-20 minutes.

 

I don't carry around a hand drill to get myself out of a bad choice of descent routes or even the unexepected bail - it isn't necessary. But it is not that hard to drill a hole by hand.

[cj001f]

Matt - I think we all need a big hug