[TR] Static Point (Sultan, WA) - Online and Lost Charms 8/15/2007

[catbirdseat]

Trip: Static Point (Sultan, WA) - Online and Lost Charms

 

Date: 8/15/2007

 

Trip Report:

MarkMcKillop, JHamaker, Toast and I headed out in James's minivan this morning from Monroe. We couldn't figure out why the girls didn't think we were cool. We thought we were cool. Must've been the sunglasses.

 

This was Mark's first visit to Static Point in 12 years and for the rest of us, our first visit ever. We came armed with a photocopy of Smoot's guide, which we brought, and Weekend Rock, which we inconveniently left in the car.

 

The road is washed out a ways before the parking area mentioned in the guides. When you see a tree over the road with a sign saying, "No Dumping", go back and park at the last wide spot in the road.

 

We'd heard much ado from lost souls bumbling around on the approach. We discussed finding the one true culvert above all others that guards the trail to Static Point. I noticed James checking out out some of the culverts as possible bivy sites, but I think he rejected them all as unsuitable. When it came down to it, the one true culvert was the one full of dirt with a cairn next to it and an obvious trail going left uphill.

 

The trail reaches the climbing area in the vicinity of Online, so we decided to start there. I led the first pitch and suspect that I started a bit to the left of where I should have. I got some gear in early and then traversed right to a bolt, which was the only one. The last 100 ft or so has no protection, but it's easy.

 

The climbing gradually gets harder as you go up, but the protection possibilities also increase. As near as I can tell, Online is the one with the chain anchors and old hardware. Offline is to the right with slings on the anchors. Anyway, James dispatched the crux 5.10a fifth pitch, even though it was starting to get hot. We opted to skip the 5.2 pitch at the top and go down for lunch.

 

Since we were waiting for Mark and Tony, James and I decided to go try Lost Charms. I suppose we were on it for the first two pitches or so, but made the mistake of going up the left side of the Pillar, instead of the right side and missing the turn onto Bridge Flake. From the top of the Pillar, we decided to continue up a bolted line featuring brand new hardware with camouflaged hangers. This route that starts just right of the top of the pillar is called Granite Jihad, 5.10a/b PG, it goes at about 5.9, 5.9+, and then about 5.10b and features some fine climbing.

 

By this time, it was baking hot in the afternoon, and the ol' rubber just wasn't sticking, so we backed off the 5.10b pitch (which still had ancient hardware) and simulrapped down.

 

I went through three liters of water and it still wasn't enough. Try to pick an overcast day to visit.

 

I'd like to see more of the hardware updated there, starting with the anchors. The Fixe anchors are really nice. I'd be willing to help any of you experts with the work.

 

Mark starting up first pitch

Toast belaying

Gear Notes:

Set of nuts and single set of cams from Black Alien to Yellow Camalot and a couple of slider nuts, which we used.

 

Approach Notes:

The trail on the abandoned road is a bit overgrown these days. Consider bringing some pruners. The trail up hill through the forest is fine.

Edited August 21, 2007 by catbirdseat

[rob]

slider nuts!

 

sounds cool guys. I was in the office all day.

[catbirdseat]

slider nuts!

 

sounds cool guys. I was in the office all day.

Perhaps more than just "psychopro", but real climbers just run it out.

 

Cool it wasn't. It was pretty dang hot. But it was fun.

Edited August 16, 2007 by catbirdseat

[AJScott]

MarkMcKillop, JHamaker, Toast and I headed out in James's minivan this morning from Monroe. We couldn't figure out why the girls didn't think we were cool. We thought we were cool. Must've been the sunglasses.

 

it sure wasn't the van, that thing is a lady killer! sounds like fun climbing.

Edited August 16, 2007 by AJScott

[MarkMcJizzy]

Static slab is rotting away. Most of the anchors are A3 piles of shit. Until alot of the anchors are replaced, Static point will remain the stupidest place to climb in Washington.

[mattp]

That's a little harsh, Mark. Aren't there at least two 3/8" bolts at all the belays on On Line? Yes, the stations look like crap but A-3 is pushing it, wouldn't you say? Anyway, I told Catbird to skip On Line and head over to do Fuddhat/Kill da Wabbit. It is more fun and the anchors are all new. Everybody does On Line not because it is the best route there but largely because it is the first thing you come to. And it IS classic slab climbing.

 

For general information, many of the routes at Static and most of the better ones have decent hardware but there certainly is a need for more replacement up there. We replaced anchors and pro bolts on at least two or three of the routes up at Tombostone Ledge a couple of years ago, The Piller has new hardware as does that new route Brian did, Shock Treatment, Fuddhat, ...

 

Cramer's Sky Valley Rock does a good job covering Static Point.

[MarkMcJizzy]

That's a little harsh, Mark. Aren't there at least two 3/8" bolts at all the belays on On Line? Yes, the stations look like crap but A-3 is pushing it, wouldn't you say?

 

Absolutely not. Most of the belays are composed of one rusty 3/8, a 1/4 button head, and a 1/4 thread head. Many of the hangers are Leepers.

 

A2, A3 Whatever. They are still unjustifiable pieces of shit.

[catbirdseat]

While I don't think those anchors are quite the death anchors, Mark would suggest, they really don't inspire a lot of confidence with the rusty appearance of the bolts. I'd like to see them replaced.

 

I think beyond convenience there is a further reason for the popularity of Online. That section of rock is the cleanest and longest continuous section of rock on the formation. It follows a crest of sorts starting about half way up which gives it a commanding vantage point.

 

It deserves to be upgraded with modern hardware. I also think the first pitch should have a second bolt added, but I'm sure everyone would make a stink if one were added.

 

A little bird just told me that we were on Granite Jihad 5.10a/b PG.

Edited August 16, 2007 by catbirdseat

[chucK]

The only place on Online seriously needing a bolt right now is the belay station at the top of the crux pitch.

 

There's a spot or two for good gear (TCU's) on p1.

 

..and I think Mark is trolling. A3 indeed.

[catbirdseat]

Chuck I found gear early on in Pitch 1, but didn't notice much on the second half of the pitch. Perhaps I wasn't looking very hard, as it is pretty easy, moving from one feature to another.

[chucK]

I think there's TCU placements about 20-30' above and a bit left of the bolt.

 

And Fuddhat/KDR is better, just as long (longer?) and has just as "commanding" a position. It is more sustained, and definitely less convenient to access.

 

Your posts come off like you're expounding with great authority, yet your original post indicates this is your first trip ever to Static Point. You should explore about a bit more before proclaiming what's best or what needs to be done. At the very least it would be nice if you qualified your statements to indicate your incomplete knowledge.

 

[Jens]

Static slab is rotting away. Most of the anchors are A3 piles of shit. Until alot of the anchors are replaced, Static point will remain the stupidest place to climb in Washington.

 

In my humble opinion: Static Point is the Finest slab climbing in North America outside of the state of California. Certainly better than Squamish's slabs.

 

[catbirdseat]

I think there's TCU placements about 20-30' above and a bit left of the bolt.

 

And Fuddhat/KDR is better, just as long (longer?) and has just as "commanding" a position. It is more sustained, and definitely less convenient to access.

 

Your posts come off like you're expounding with great authority, yet your original post indicates this is your first trip ever to Static Point. You should explore about a bit more before proclaiming what's best or what needs to be done. At the very least it would be nice if you qualified your statements to indicate your incomplete knowledge.

Chuck, if you read carefully, there is no place where I stated that I thought Online was the "best". I said we had a good time, and I was speculating about reasons why it is a popular route.

 

I don't need to be a local expert to recognize shoddy hardware when I see it. Old, obsolete hardware is, old obsolete hardware, whereever it is found.

[Jens]

One nice thing about forces on junk gear on really low angle slabs is that the forces are suuuuuuper low.

[chucK]

That section of rock is the cleanest and longest continuous section of rock on the formation.

 

Oh, and I do think I agree with Mark partially. I think STatic probably is the stupidest place to climb in Washington....on a hot sunny day in August.

 

Been there done that.

[catbirdseat]

You calling us stupid!

 

When we scheduled our climb on Monday the weather forecast had a high of 73 degrees and mostly cloudy. What can you do?

[chucK]

yes

 

but in a self-deprecating way

[mattp]

When we scheduled our climb on Monday the weather forecast had a high of 73 degrees and mostly cloudy. What can you do?

 

Change plans based on updated information?

[catbirdseat]

Hey we talked about bailing to Index, but that "Static Stoke was on". Gotta scratch that itch, baby.

[Toast]

My main worry was getting to the first bolts above the belays. They're pretty run out. I guess that's part of the spice. Whatever the case, the gear is old, and I'd hate to test those old button heads with a factor 2 fall. The routes are good shit, though. I'd definately go back.

 

I'd be happy to help carry tools and bang away to replace some of the hardware.

[Rad]

Your posts come off like you're expounding with great authority, yet your original post indicates this is your first trip ever to Static Point. You should explore about a bit more before proclaiming what's best or what needs to be done. At the very least it would be nice if you qualified your statements to indicate your incomplete knowledge.

 

.

I think you're sugar coating that pill!

.

What would RumR say?!?

[MCash]

Static slab is rotting away. Most of the anchors are A3 piles of shit. Until alot of the anchors are replaced, Static point will remain the stupidest place to climb in Washington.

 

In my humble opinion: Static Point is the Finest slab climbing in North America outside of the state of California. Certainly better than Squamish's slabs.

 

It seams about the same quality as Darrington to me. For a moderate pure friction slab route, Silent Running is pretty hard to beat. Dreamer and Safe Sex are both better than Lost Charms. I haven't tried Fuddhat / KTR or Shock Treatment yet.

 

Nice to see some work done on the Pillar up there.

[catbirdseat]

Your posts come off like you're expounding with great authority, yet your original post indicates this is your first trip ever to Static Point. You should explore about a bit more before proclaiming what's best or what needs to be done. At the very least it would be nice if you qualified your statements to indicate your incomplete knowledge.

 

.

I think you're sugar coating that pill!

.

What would RumR say?!?

RuMR would want to know what knot to tie. I showed him how to tie his shoe laces several times already. I keep reminding him to tie together the two laces on the SAME shoe.

[mattp]

I have replaced a lot of old 5/16 buttonheads. Nearly all of them are quite bomber and they can be a real bitch to get out. I bet less than one in twenty turns out, when you start hammering and prying on it, to seem like it wasn't perfectly good. I don't know how dangerous those old recalled Leeper hangers are, but I haven't seen any of these fail or indicate weakness as I was prying on them trying to remove an old bolt, either. Those old split-shank quarter inch studs, however, can be pretty scary!

 

I'd be happy to help replace some of that old mank, too, but be prepared for some hard work.

[MarkMcJizzy]

I don't know how dangerous those old recalled Leeper hangers are

 

From: Greg Barnes

 

Ed Leeper is once again reiterating the warning of the danger present in his recalled hangers. Between 1962 and 1984, 95,000 of them were sold, and at this time, almost one in a hundred is prone to sudden catastrophic failure - even if has never once been weighted. Copy hangers that were homemade are even more likely to suddenly break, even with only body weight, let alone a fall. This appears to be a form of stress corrosion cracking, but he is not sure.

 

The rate of failure increases if the hanger is visibly 'dished' out by an over-tightened bolt.

 

The full text of the updated warning is on the ASCA info page as a small PDF file.

 

If you know of any cases, or see any out climbing, where a Leeper hanger (not the bolt) broke, please call Ed immediately at (303) 442-3773.

 

Well Matt, the guy who made them, wants them all removed from service because he feels that they are very dangerous.

 

This has been common knowledge for about 15 years, announcements in mags, etc.