Knottygirl Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 The fact that your hands can start sweating watching someone on a tough lead tells you that it is a mental game. Chalk's great as long as you are aware of using it, and know when it will actually help and when you're just using it as a delay tactic before committing to some moves. yeah, its not a mental game...i just have clamy hands. If I'm confident they're clamy...if I'm scared they are clamy...i even slip around on my yoga mat! Quote
RuMR Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 gross! so not the case... if she's wet there, one can extrapolate to elsewhere... Quote
RuMR Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 shoot...i won't even need my...oh nevermind... Quote
billcoe Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 I'm dense. She was talking about her hands. wheres Muffy and Arch?, I think these dudes just want to hear some dirty talk. Quote
rmncwrtr Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 Bill - I just IM'd Muffy and told her about this thread. She will be here when she gets home from work. She gave me permission to say something dirty in her name, but I'm way down in A ball compared to major leaguers Muffy and Arch when it comes to that. I'd strike out looking. In the meantime, she wanted to tell Pink that he'd better not be trying to give Knottygirl a clue. Muffy's exact words tell him it is my clue damn it!!! he still owes me one Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted August 1, 2007 Author Posted August 1, 2007 oh god!what have I done??? You haven't done anything. All these dudes are a bunch of hounds apparently. Quote
sk Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 The fact that your hands can start sweating watching someone on a tough lead tells you that it is a mental game. Chalk's great as long as you are aware of using it, and know when it will actually help and when you're just using it as a delay tactic before committing to some moves. yeah, its not a mental game...i just have clamy hands. If I'm confident they're clamy...if I'm scared they are clamy...i even slip around on my yoga mat! I tend to be a bit *damp* as well. it is just one of those things. the trick for me is to not use loose chalk and to use as little chalk as i can get away with. i think it is the activity of wiping my hands on the chalk ball that helps with the errr *dampness* same is true for KY and the like... you can have to much glide in your astro if you are not careful Quote
JosephH Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 It's all about the judicious application of friction and lubrication - knowing when, where, and how much is just right is the name of the game. Premature echalkulation can and does happen when you simply can't control yourself and stay focused on matters in hand. Next thing you know, with one overly tight grip, it's slathered where you never intended it making a mess of everything. And for godsake try not to get the stuff in your eye, that does make it tough to get back on a fevered pitch. Quote
sk Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 It's all about the judicious application of friction and lubrication - knowing when, where, and how much is just right is the name of the game. Premature echalkulation can and does happen when you simply can't control yourself and stay focused on matters in hand. Next thing you know, with one overly tight grip, it's slathered where you never intended it and making a mess of everything. And for godsake try not to get the stuff in your eye, that does make it tough to get back on a fevered pitch. Bloody brilliant Quote
kevbone Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 This thread has taken a turn for the worse. Quote
ivan Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 how am i to know where to go if the previous thousand folks haven't chalked up all the critical holds? Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted August 2, 2007 Author Posted August 2, 2007 ah yes, I remember belaying you on pipeline ivan, and instead of choosing the sweet splitter crack in front of you, you veer off left in to chossville, pop. ivan. I should have left some gear in for you to follow, or chalked it up a bit more. I'll call that undercling on loose blocks "the crazy ivan" variation. Might see you out there at some point Fri/Sat. Quote
dan_forester Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 It's all about the judicious application of friction and lubrication - knowing when, where, and how much is just right is the name of the game. Premature echalkulation can and does happen when you simply can't control yourself and stay focused on matters in hand. Next thing you know, with one overly tight grip, it's slathered where you never intended it making a mess of everything. And for godsake try not to get the stuff in your eye, that does make it tough to get back on a fevered pitch. I can see "echalkulation" making it into the climbers' lexicon. Quote
kevbone Posted August 3, 2007 Posted August 3, 2007 ah yes, I remember belaying you on pipeline ivan, and instead of choosing the sweet splitter crack in front of you, you veer off left in to chossville, pop. ivan. I should have left some gear in for you to follow, or chalked it up a bit more. I'll call that undercling on loose blocks "the crazy ivan" variation. Might see you out there at some point Fri/Sat. I guess if you veered off to the left up the choss.....you werent on Pipeline. Quote
phillygoat Posted August 3, 2007 Posted August 3, 2007 What do you call the 'right hand in the crack, left on the choss' variation? Quote
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