Good Source for Climbing "Technique"?

[Choada_Boy]

Not finger lock/layback/handjam/smear techniques, but stuff about efficient body positioning, muscle and limb loading, motion, center of gravity, etc. I'm looking for something that can help me to "fine tune" my shitty slob style of climbing.

[layton]

Check out Amazon.com

There's a relatively new book that mainly focuses on body positioning, center of gravity, etc... and has a good dvd that goes over what the book talks about. I have it, and I think it's called "The Self Coached Climber".

[Rad]

Goddard and Neumann's "Performance Rock Climbing" is an excellent book IMHO. It spends a lot of time on mental and psychological aspects of climbing, but also talks about technique and training. You can get it used off Amazon pretty cheap.

[Kat_Roslyn]

I suggest more climbing.

[Sherri]

I suggest more climbing.

 

With good climbers.

[selkirk]

Lead stuff slightly above your current ability level that protects well I've found irrational fear of falling/dying is good for at least a letter grade improvement.

 

Oh, you might also look into ballet/martial arts. I haven't done it in a while by Tai Chi would probably be exceptionally good training as it's all focused on slow, controlled, relaxed movement, with a lot of focus on being centered and learning to move from your core.

[selkirk]

I suggest more climbing.

 

With good climbers.

 

Can certainly help. But depending on how you approach it, I've seen some climbers stunted by this, as they only end up top roping problems at or above their ability level.

 

Someone said that climbing is 90% mental, and the rest if footwork. Nothing builds the mental part like like leading everything all the time.

[Irish Guy]

Oh, you might also look into ballet/martial arts. I haven't done it in a while by Tai Chi would probably be exceptionally good training as it's all focused on slow, controlled, relaxed movement, with a lot of focus on being centered and learning to move from your core.

 

I started taking yoga classes about 6 weeks ago, and have found my climbing has significantly improved. All of the movements are super controlled, balance is key, and it really helps with your flexability. My climbing has gotten way better with being able to precisely place feet and hands, keep my balance and gravity in position. Definitely recommend it!

[selkirk]

Oh, you might also look into ballet/martial arts. I haven't done it in a while by Tai Chi would probably be exceptionally good training as it's all focused on slow, controlled, relaxed movement, with a lot of focus on being centered and learning to move from your core.

 

I started taking yoga classes about 6 weeks ago, and have found my climbing has significantly improved. All of the movements are super controlled, balance is key, and it really helps with your flexability. My climbing has gotten way better with being able to precisely place feet and hands, keep my balance and gravity in position. Definitely recommend it!

 

Have definitely heard this from a few people. I somewhat prefer martial arts (though I haven't studied much and don't at the moment) as instead of a static balance where your trying to maintain a fixed position, it's a dynamic balance focused on smooth flowing motion.

 

[Sol]

bouldering yo!!!

[sampdx1]

Try The Rock Warrior's Way, by Arno Ilgner.