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Prusik Peak West Ridge Beta


n1madman

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9 times out of 10....

 

Forget the snowshoes

 

Forget the ice tools -- one ax is perhaps useful, depending on conditions

 

Forget the crampons

 

Remember to take coffee, camera, and a light rack because it's a long way in for a pretty easy (though great) route on great rock.

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I tried to one-day this in June of last year, made it to the the bottom of the route before it started raining. There was lots of snow but no ice. Didn't take or want snowshoes or crampons. I don't remember whether I had an axe but I don't think it's important either. Hiking poles are probably a good idea.

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n1madman,

 

those shots (beautiful!) are not typical June condish. You will find lots of snow on the plateau. I also would suggest no snowshoes, as the Snow Lakes trail should be pretty clear until you start heading up the the plateau. I did S Face of Prussik a few years ago first week in June and it was great! We only postholed around upper Snow Lake, the rest of the trail was snow free. No cramps or ice axe needed. Can be a little on the cold side in the morning.

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The descent is five rappels and you will most likely have to push snow aside to find the anchors. The descent is on the north face and rarely gets sun. After you pull your rope you will traverse off to your right (climber’s right) and will most likely run across some tricky sections of rock with ice. Crampons? Maybe?

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another tip to get their via asgard pass - the snowcreek approach was murder a couple of weeks ago, especially because of the mile after mile of shattered trees - it's also hard to stay on trail for the last 1000 feet to the upper lakes when its covered w/ a buncha snow

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  • 5 weeks later...

When I was up in that area about three weeks ago, I talked to a guy who said there was only a fair amount of snow above assagard pass and kind of slow going. But I can imagine that three weeks later its better.

 

I actually don't know if that helped at all.

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