outerspace walkoff /gear

[Peter_Puget]

The route is fun but not great. Think about it:

 

Pitch 1: Mundane scrambling up a non-descript rock.

 

Pitch 2: A so-so traverse.

 

Pitch 3: 20' of fun moves in the middle of mediocre climbing.

 

Pitch 4: Sandy climbing.

 

Pitch 5: Fun climbing up the headwall.

 

Pitch 6: More of the same up the headwall.

 

These last two pitches become pretty darn repetitive. The most enjoyable aspect is the exposure not the moves. Hanging on Library Ledge is pretty cool.

 

All in all a *** route not ****.

 

However most overhyped route on SCW is Iconoclast/Hypersace.

 

The walk off isn't so bad just bring walking shoes.

 

A better choice: When open hike to Midnight and try the Wild Traverse/Apron Jam link-up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[tradclimbguy]

I gotta say, I always thought the climb was overrated at ***** but Tradclimbguy is the first guy I've ever heard say that the headwall pitches are not great. Those are what you go there for. The rest of the route is mediocre, in my opinion (the crux traverse is fun), but I can't really think of two pitches in a row of moderate climbing like that that are in a better setting on a crag climb in Washington.

 

Let me elaborate. I had heard the climb was 5 stars, best in washington, perfect 2 pitch splitter, yadda yadda yadda. You walk up to the crag and see this splitter too which looks amazing and get all amped up for it. I'd also heard the rest of the climb was just mediocre and people really only deal with the initial pitches to get to those last two.

 

So needless to say I was looking forward to two perfect splitter pitches to finish on at the top but I had a lot of hype and expectations going into the climb that didn't get met.

 

Yes the top 2 pitches have more or less one continuous crack but it's not the splitter I imagined in my head. I'd give those two pitches about a 3 star out of 5 and the rest of the climb 1 or 2 for pretty good quality climbing with varied pitches.

 

As for the setting, yes its great!!! The pitches are good just not 5 star. My opinion only though. First headwall pitch is a little face climbing to a wandering thin hands crack with chicken heads that eventually turns into the splitter you see in the pictures. The second pitch was so moderate and broken up though I couldn't figure out why they considered it much of a splitter. Just an "ok" pitch that happened to have a crack on it between the chicken heads.

 

Anyway, don't want to drag anyone down. The route is absolutely great and well worth a visit in there. Not on my radar as a route to bother with 50 times like I've heard people say but it's good.

 

The hype is most likely what ruined if for me though. If I hadn't heard such amazing reviews I would have probably been pleased with the route and given it a better rating. Comparing it to other things I've done though it just isn't 4 stars or "The best rock climb in Washington"...

[spotly]

So which moderate route would you give that title to? Where is the best moderate splitter in the state?

[tradclimbguy]

So which moderate route would you give that title to? Where is the best moderate splitter in the state?

 

ok, fine. I guess if we really want to be nit picky on "moderate splitter" then OS would qualify. Just seems like a lot of hoopla for a mediocre climb overall.

 

How about the last pitch on Great Norther Slab whatever that's called. Thats a great splitter closer to home without an approach or the BS first pitches. Breakfast of Champions is another splitter that is awesome and Thin fingers has the best splitter section I can think of, but neither have the alpine or exposure in it, so different animals to compare.

 

I'd say Calculus crack in Squamish far outweighs OS and so does Exasperator, both of which are moderates but not in Washington. I'd say OS is probably the most exposed alpine setting climb that has some splitter in it, just not something to really cheer about.

 

I don't know, sorry I trashed on OS. I'll go back to my hole and try to forget I ever mentioned it didn't seem like the 5 star route everyone gives it

[chucK]

You can greatly improve the climb by doing the RPM start. You start on Remorse (to avoid the scary 10d RPM slab) then cut off right up to some belay bolts. The second pitch of RPM starts with a Godzilla-like RFC-corner flake, then you can either pull the 10b roof (which can be C0/1'd easily and has good pro and clean fall), or you can mantle on top of the block then exit left with an easy but exposed short traverse over to Remorse (this keeps the difficulty at 5.9).

 

You can also make the third pitch of OS a little more interesting by starting it using the RPM corner (corner right of two OS starts) then get back on OS p3 where it intersects.

 

Oh, and the walkoff is no problem if you have shoes, any routefinding sense, and daylight. Plus it dumps you out right at the base of Orbit so you can complete your 10-pitch day!

 

 

 

 

[Peter_Puget]

If moderate means 5.8/9 then better multi-pitch routes would be:

 

Orbit 5.8+ (SCW)

Lost Charms 5.9 (Static Point)

Princely Ambitions 5.9+ (Index)

Quinn Konehead 5.9 (Darrington)

Wild Traverse/Apron Jam 5.9 (Midnight Rock)

 

The headwall pitches on Outerspace require very little actual crack climbing technique.

 

[fenderfour]

Start with the first pitch or two of the Remorse Route to avoid lame scrambling on OS.

[pms]

real nice selection there pp. some damn nice climbs out there. I think Darrington is the shit.

Edited April 20, 2007 by pms

[chucK]

If moderate means 5.8/9 then better multi-pitch routes would be:

 

Orbit 5.8+ (SCW)

Lost Charms 5.9 (Static Point)

Princely Ambitions 5.9+ (Index)

Quinn Konehead 5.9 (Darrington)

Wild Traverse/Apron Jam 5.9 (Midnight Rock)

 

The headwall pitches on Outerspace require very little actual crack climbing technique.

 

Add to that list

Tower 1 Route (Big Four)

NorthWest Corner(North Early Winters Spire)

East Face(Lexington Tower)

Dreamer (Darrington)

 

...and how come you didn't tack Beak Beak Beak and 10% Meterological Vinculation to the top of Princely?

 

ETA ooops, Big Four route is 10a

Edited April 20, 2007 by chucK

[Peter_Puget]

The list is growing.....

 

I'd say Lamar's/10% is a better combination than Beek/10%. Both have better moves than most of Outerspace but not much exposure.

 

If it was cleaned off the Tatoosh/Narrow Arrow combination would be a great moderate route. As it stand there are a few blocks that would definately come off (and quite possibly kill someone) if the received much traffic. If someone was climbing it, I sure wouldn't hang out down below.

[MCash]

I don't know about Orbit or Lost Charms, I thought they were both 2 or 3 star routes.

 

I thought Safe Sex on Green Giant Buttress is a really cool climb and is one of the best 5.9s around. Really varied climbing just like Dreamer.

[BachelorTravis]

If moderate means 5.8/9 then better multi-pitch routes would be:

 

Orbit 5.8+ (SCW)

Lost Charms 5.9 (Static Point)

Princely Ambitions 5.9+ (Index)

Quinn Konehead 5.9 (Darrington)

Wild Traverse/Apron Jam 5.9 (Midnight Rock)

 

The headwall pitches on Outerspace require very little actual crack climbing technique.

 

Add to that list

Tower 1 Route (Big Four)

NorthWest Corner(North Early Winters Spire)

East Face(Lexington Tower)

Dreamer (Darrington)

 

...and how come you didn't tack Beak Beak Beak and 10% Meterological Vinculation to the top of Princely?

 

ETA ooops, Big Four route is 10a

 

If link ups count you will find link ups just as good (if not better) as anything in WA at Beacon Rock (don't let the crazy old guys make you think it is in OR)

 

Make sure to bring your chalk... it gets hot on the river!

[archenemy]

I threw up on that climb. But I still love it. The vistas are unbeatable.

[Peter_Puget]

I don't know about Orbit or Lost Charms, I thought they were both 2 or 3 star routes.

 

I thought Safe Sex on Green Giant Buttress is a really cool climb and is one of the best 5.9s around. Really varied climbing just like Dreamer.

 

Here's Mcash's Lost Charms TR.

 

Most of Lost Charms is mush easier than 5.9. In fact it has only two 5.9 moves the second can easily be aided. In the attached photo taken from MCash's TR the obvious line of grass just above the climber is the line of FA. If cleaned it is a perfect 5.5/6 crack. Bring a nut tool and after a few ascents it will be golden.

 

Edited April 20, 2007 by Peter_Puget

[Peter_Puget]

 

If link ups count you will find link ups just as good (if not better) as anything in WA at Beacon Rock (don't let the crazy old guys make you think it is in OR)

 

Make sure to bring your chalk... it gets hot on the river!

 

If 10a counts for moderate, Blownout at Beacon is a good route. It's a real crack.

[Jens]

I have to respectfully disagree with many of you. As a crag rat, I think O.S. is one of the best 5.9 and under routes in North America and I 've climbed in almost every state and province west of the Missisippi. Sure their are a couple of BS pitches but man it sure is nice.

 

[G-spotter]

RPM start is the way to go. And you pass all teh slow parties getting lost on the traverse that way.