Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Didn't anyone climb last weekend? Let's post some climbing spray for a change! Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) all last week with multiple families at smiff...as i recall, you were invited... 8 kids throughout the week and accessory parents... Edited April 16, 2007 by RuMR Quote
G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 i climbed some squamish cracks. the bluffs were sunny and dry and best of all there were hardly any Americans around! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Author Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) I'll be lucky if I can get out once during the next 3-4 weeks! Nice pics! Hey Karate must be a fist crack for a youngster. Edited April 16, 2007 by Peter_Puget Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) i climbed some squamish cracks. the bluffs were sunny and dry and best of all there were hardly any Americans around! yeah... i bet you ripped those 5.5's up with your "massive" biceps... Edited April 16, 2007 by RuMR Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 I'll be lucky if I can get out once during the next 3-4 weeks! Nice pics! Hey Karate must be a fist crack for a youngster. there were points where he was more inside it than outside of it, he kept saying "there is no way this thing is 10-"...hahahaha, whiner... ...my fist is bigger than his knee... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Author Posted April 16, 2007 Ya it must be a drag hearing the Americans convert the "Canadian" YDS scale at about the same ratio used to convert Candian dollars to US$. "Let me see is 5.11 the same as 5.8 or 5.9? I always forget..." Quote
counterfeitfake Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 I climbed at Peshastin but didn't spray, out of fear the place would dissolve. Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Ya it must be a drag hearing the Americans convert the "Canadian" YDS scale at about the same ratio used to convert Candian dollars to US$. "Let me see is 5.11 the same as 5.8 or 5.9? I always forget..." BURN... i think the squamish exchange rate to Index currency is on the order of 65% Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Author Posted April 16, 2007 But it's equal to the rate used at x38. Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 no...its probably higher than 38...that place is a complete joke... Quote
Sherri Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Guess the joke was on me then, but I was happy to get in a couple laps at Exit 38 Sunday(better than nothing right?). I wondered if we'd be washed out by the rain showers encountered en route, but the afternoon turned out to be relatively dry/mild. Could still smell snow in the air. Watched a little girl next to us leading a 5.7--it was only her second time lead climbing and she styled it. Her dad was belaying her with the brake strand pinched between just one finger and thumb though. Made me nervous to watch. Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 x38 5.7 = 4th class...dad belaying that way was ok... Quote
billcoe Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Got out but my crack climbing skills sucked so bad I was trying to forget about it. Unless you enjoy hearing how big of a wussie I am. Quote
drater Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 I had this epic siegefest on a massive summit (2005 & 2006 taxes). Got up early Saturday morning, climbed (data entry) all morning long, got dehydrated (bored), had to stop and boil snow (case of coronas, 4 limes, bag of chips). Refreshed, I trudged (more data entry) upwards. Got off route (missing receipts) and had to bivy (passed out). Sunday, woke to blue sky's (fucking alarm clock) and proceeded to break camp (corona at 6am). A long day of sketchy rock (lying), frozen mud (making shit up)and constant rockfall (beer shits) led me to the summit cornice (out of beer). Undaunted, I trudged (staggered) on but as my headlamp (420) was dying, I turned back in defeat (filed extension, again). Failing sucks but at least I tried (that sucked even worse). Quote
ivan Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 free lunch on the picnic wall - it was most chossily goodtimes highlight of the weekend was still non-climbing - layton gave me a copy of luther wright and the wrong's remodulation of pink floyd's "the wall" - fawking brilliant! Quote
G-spotter Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 i climbed some squamish cracks. the bluffs were sunny and dry and best of all there were hardly any Americans around! yeah... i bet you ripped those 5.5's up with your "massive" biceps... There's only one route rated 5.5 in the Bluffs, and there was a lineup for it Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Author Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) Rumr - Outer Limits woudl be a squeeze for your son! Sherri -I would have loved being at 38. Edited April 16, 2007 by Peter_Puget Quote
David Trippett Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Ya it must be a drag hearing the Americans convert the "Canadian" YDS scale at about the same ratio used to convert Candian dollars to US$. "Let me see is 5.11 the same as 5.8 or 5.9? I always forget..." BURN... i think the squamish exchange rate to Index currency is on the order of 65% good topic!...I think that the Pillar is Index 5.9...what routes in Squish can you give Index grades? Can you think of any that ARE roughly equivalent? I'll start with a few examples and you give the Index grade.... Caboose Talking Holds Sentry Box Direct Black Water Spider Fly Agonal Perspective Boogie til.... Even Steven Flight of the Challenger long pitch below the truckstop on Freeway DOA Horrors of Ivan Crescent Crack Alaska Highway 2nd pitch Quote
jmace Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Over a foot of fresh pow at Whistler and 49$ lift tickets at 7E!! Quote
jordop Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Yeah man. 30 cms of fresh snow. Got to be the first one off the steep bit on Spearhead and then first tracks and laps on Corona. Boooyakasha. Quote
RuMR Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) alaskahighway would be index 11+ blackwater would be index 11+ sentry box direct would be index 11+ even steven is mid 11 and i have very small fingers...not long enough...although comparable to sentry box perspective 10+/11a horrors of Ivan would be 10+ or 11-...very short crux...there's no way this thing is 11c Caboose felt right, but i was hung over massively haven't done boogie haven't done talking holds, spidr fly agonal flight or freeway...these are all on the radar though.. seem fair? Edited April 16, 2007 by RuMR Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 16, 2007 Author Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) The question is do you think the Pillar would be rated the same in Yos? I have climbed over half of the routes in your list but cant really remember them much. DOA seemed rated ok.(.11b?) Isn't that the same as Mouthful of Eels? Perspective is easy for the grade and Sentry Box Direct is very easy for the grade. Wasn't Horrors originally rated .11b? Seems a bit generous. I cant remember any of the others. Is Spider Fly a short crack at the back of the Bluffs? Edited April 16, 2007 by Peter_Puget Quote
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