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kevbone

Adding a bolt to a Portland route

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Man does anyone ever post anything useful here anymore? Starting a post with "hypothetical" just to get everyone arguing about the same gay issue.. Spray it is.. For the record, that route is just fine as it is. The slab up there is exciting but not that big of a deal. That route is crappy anyway, as are most of the routes out there. You could install a bolt every 6 inches up there and it wouldn't make a lick of difference to anyone.. Just another greasy urban crag close to Wendys and the outlet mall.

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I don't know the route but a 20-25' fall to me means a 10-12' runout (i.e. worst case you fall trying to make the next clip/placement and double the distance to the last one). That's pretty reasonable in any circumstance, especially in the case where the runout occurs on ground a full grade below the crux. But again, I don't know the route, but reckon someone who is climbing 5.11 should have enough experience to be able to make their own judgments and decide whether the route falls within the level of comfort they are feeling up to on the given day they are considering it, knowing that they can always come back on a day when they are feeling better, or are a better climber and that "runout" (though it really doesn't sound runout) bit is not an issue for them.

 

But hey, it seems like in your original post you were asking for feedback. I think you got it, and although it's not what you might have wanted to hear I think you can get a good feeling for what a representative sample of the community thinks about it. And I don't think people are giving that opinion (i.e. not in favor of adding a bolt) to rag on you for any personal reason, rather that's the way they feel about it.

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Man does anyone ever post anything useful here anymore?

 

No....its spray dummy.

 

 

Just another greasy urban crag close to Wendys and the outlet mall.

 

What, you dont like the climb? I think its a good warm up.

 

I will never touch the route with my drill but I would not be mad if someone did.

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Sounds simple to me. A 11c with a 10- runout. If you can climb 11+, 10- shouldn't be a problem. If there is gear somewhere, then plug it and put a long runner on the piece.

 

Here in Spain there are tons of huge limestone 500 meter faces with "sport" routes going up them. Most of the "easier" routes weigh in with pitches in the 10+ range and there are many more routes that have several pitches in the 11+ and 12 range. Granted there are a lot of strong climbers here but not everyone is climbing those grades. As you can imagine, whoever is bolting a 500 meter route would be bolting sparingly. Hence the guides give a mandatory free climbing grade that you have to climb to do the route. The guide would say something like "Me gusta tetas grandes 10d/Ao or 12a (10d Mandatory)" If you can't do this grade, you risk huge falls. Maybe the guide to this climb in question should mention like this.

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I was going to mention all those awesome 7b+ routes in spain with bolts every 5m but I didn't think gradespray fit into spray.

 

Kevbone, again, go to Suicide. Slabs should be run out. It's part of climbing.

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I was going to mention all those awesome 7b+ routes in spain with bolts every 5m but I didn't think gradespray fit into spray.

 

Kevbone, again, go to Suicide. Slabs should be run out. It's part of climbing.

 

Its part of your climbing. Not mine. We are thinking on different levels.

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While we are on the subject, the pitch up the Pearly Gates is really dangerous. People get hurt there. Maybe Kevbone can help get the forest service to put some fixed metal rungs up there for our own via ferrata.

 

 

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If you're interested in closely bolted sporto climbs go to that ozone place. Also, lolllllerz Nate.

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If you're interested in closely bolted sporto climbs go to that ozone place. Also, lolllllerz Nate.

 

What would give you impression I want closely spaced bolts? Wanting an extra bolt on an already retroed route is different than what you are implying.

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Whatevs, I don't really care. Yaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwn.

 

You care enough to troll on this thread. Good job. :rawk:

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I'm wondering how many of the people replying have even seen the crag in question or been to Oregon (other than 2 trips to smith) at least once in the last 12 months.

 

Dude shows up and asks a valid question and (mostly) gets bashed (with a few notable exceptions).

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ummm...

 

he asked an open forum...what would you expect but someone's opinion?

 

nobody bashed him...well, maybe blowboarder, but that's his style...

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ih ave been to the outlet mall..........AN dTeh windys..........this is spray and keving the dog a bone is postnig......my cascadeclmimber mentnor says ai"ll be ready for edgesa nd ledges one day

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Is trolling on a thread that's already a troll really trolling?

 

Yes and no. Something tells me we have met!

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I'd say the most important opinion is the First Ascensionist. Ask them if they'd mind another bolt.

 

Maybe the reason there isn't one is simply because they ran out or were cheap, and couldn't care less if there was another one or not.

 

Still a little 5.10 runout on a 11c route is pretty common. If you don't like it you could TR the route.

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ih ave been to the outlet mall..........AN dTeh windys..........this is spray and keving the dog a bone is postnig......my cascadeclmimber mentnor says ai"ll be ready for edgesa nd ledges one day

 

edgesa nd ledges

 

You are from ptown. Eh.

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....not from their but I hve studdied the climbs taht my mento rsays I should try soon toi get to climb......evyr day im training to be best 5.4 climber..............

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ummm...

well, maybe blowboarder, but that's his style...

 

 

it's either that or no style at all for me...

 

 

 

I'm sorry Kevy, I generally try to attack the idea and not the poster. I've failed miserably. Again.

 

I find it interesting how Kevbone jumps to Pink's defense when he gets slammed while Pink lets Kevboned take it....guess we know who the top is in that relationship.

 

Fuck.

 

Failed again.

 

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kevbone, i think blowboarder was very moved by your thread.

 

blowboarder, i would think that failure would be common place for you.

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ahhh...i see that you've got kev'sbone out of your piehole now, so you can speak up...

 

:rolleyes:

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