Jamming primers in Leavenworth

[rob]

My crack technique needs work! I'm looking for some good moderate (5.6 - 5.8) jamming in Leavenworth. Ideas?

 

TIA!

[catbirdseat]

Classic Crack,5.8+, Gibson's Crack. 5.5, Dogleg Crack, 5.8. The Left Crack, 5.6.

[Reid]

The route left of classic crack is also a good one that requires jamming. A little easier than classic

[catbirdseat]

It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead.

[catbirdseat]

Also, there's Givler's Crack, 5.8. The hardest part is getting off the ground. The best part of the crack starts on the second pitch and it goes at around 5.6. You can do it.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/520096/page/0/fpart/3

 

5.5

Midway- multi

Saber- multi

Notch Route on Tumwater Tower- hands

 

5.6

R&D- multi

Tree Route- multi

The Fault- chimney, hands, fists, face

Ground Hog Day- fingers, hands

 

5.7(+)

Givler's Crack- mostly hands, fist

Bob's 4th Crack- hands

Roots Rock Reggae- hands

P2 Rgular Route (Careno)- hands

 

5.8(+)

Classic Crack- hands

Dogleg Crack- tight hands, hands

S Face Jello Tower- tight hands, hands, face

Canary- hands

Animal Farm- hands, fists, face

Cloud Nine- hands, fists

Catapult- hands, stemming

Arselips and Elbows- chimney

Spaghetti Sauce- hands

The Arch- undercling, smearing

P3 Regular Route (Careno)- stemming, hands

 

5.9(+)

Celestial Groove- fingers, hands

Ski Tracks Crack- hands

Damnation Crack- lieback, fists

Kitty Corner- lieback, stem, fingers, hands

Yellowbird- fingers, hands, face

The Bone- hands, heel hook, mantle

Lightning Crack- hands

Poison Ivy Crack- hands

Deception Crack- thin hands, slick face

Twin Cracks- thin hands

Angel Crack- fingers, slick-as-snot feet

Forking Crack- hands, face

 

5.10-

Crack of Doom- hands, thin hands, face

Brass Balls- fingers, off fingers, hands

Cocaine Crack- fingers, hands

Arms Control- fingers, hands

Exotic Dancer- stemming, hands

Meat Grinder- hands, fists

Bo Derek- hands, face

A Swingn' Affair- hands

P3 Bale/Kramar- fingers, hands, fists

Pearly Gates- fingers, chimney, hands

 

5.10+

MF Overhang- fingers, face

The Nose- fingers, face

Carnival Crack- OW

Z-Crack- fingers, hands

Deb's Crack- hands, fists

Original Route on Warrior Wall- stemming, hands, face

Shot Down in Flames- lieback, hands

Leap of Faith- fingers, thin hands, face

 

5.11-

Pumpline- fingers, thin hands

MF Direct- fingers

Divine Line- fingers

Solar Power- fingers

Air Roof- fingers, hands

 

5.11+

ROTC- thin hands, hands

Lazy Boy- hands

[rob]

sweet, thx!

[Reid]

It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead.

 

Yeah that's it. I didn't really think of how difficult it'd be to lead vs. Classic Crack... I TRed them both

[catbirdseat]

It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead.

 

Yeah that's it. I didn't really think of how difficult it'd be to lead vs. Classic Crack... I TRed them both

I saw a young fellow do his first trad lead on Twin Cracks. That wouldn't be my first choice, but he was young and very strong and did fine.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Seems like a poor choice for first lead. The crux has trick pro IIRC. Classic is the harder climb, but definitely the safer lead. Bomber gear the whole way.

[counterfeitfake]

Twin Crack is a tricky lead.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Twin Crack is a tricky lead.

 

Twin Cracks is a tricky lead too. (Unless you have lots of big gear)

Edited March 29, 2007 by Peter_Puget

[Toast]

Pearly Gates has a lot of crack routes in the moderate range.

[MisterMo]

It's called Twin Crack, isn't it? It's easier to top rope, but I'd say harder to lead.

 

Left Forking 5.8

Right Forking 5.9

 

The big flake wiggles, eh?

 

Classic.........uh.............5.7

 

Deception 5.9 but it's really more of a face problem

Edited March 29, 2007 by MisterMo

[counterfeitfake]

Twin Crack is a tricky lead.

 

Twin Cracks is a tricky lead too. (Unless you have lots of big gear)

 

Edited by Peter_Puget (Today at 09:52 AM)

 

Eh?? What kind of moderating tomfoolery is this??

[G-spotter]

Forget trad leading. If you want some jamming schooling get on Royal Flush at SwiftWater

[JayB]

UW Rock.

[shiva]

just boulder the cube crack at clamshell once you get good the start is the crux but then it is plugger hands but it pretty highball

[rob]

Pearly Gates has a lot of crack routes in the moderate range.

 

Pearly Gates

[selkirk]

just boulder the cube crack at clamshell once you get good the start is the crux but then it is plugger hands but it pretty highball

 

Top rope-able if you stem off the tree And you must have little freakin hands!

[selkirk]

Skip Leavenworth and go to Tieton :tup:

Climb Mushmaker (5.7 hands) until you can do it on your sleep and without the face.

 

Repeat on First Blood(5.8 rattly fists/offwidth), Repeat on Orange Sunshine (10b burly fingers), Repeat on Paul Maul (10c fingers).

 

Or go try the top half of Toxic Shock at Index. Sweet hands!!!

[fenderfour]

Tieton is a really good place for cracks. Paul's Jam is a really good .8 (hands). There was really good .9 to the left, but I don't remember the name. There is also MX, a .10a (fingers) that is harder than Orange Sunshine.

[rob]

I've never climbed there, sounds like I need to check it out. Maybe warmup on Pauls and then give the 9 a shot.

[fenderfour]

FYI - All of the cracks are steep at Tieton. It makes for good climbing, but the ratings seem a little stiff.

[rob]

Thx, maybe I'll eye that 9 more suspiciously now.

 

stiffer than index?

Edited September 21, 2007 by robmcdan