TrogdortheBurninator Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I thought Inca Roads was more sustained, and overall more challenging than godzilla. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Tieton is a really good place for cracks. Paul's Jam is a really good .8 (hands). There was really good .9 to the left, but I don't remember the name. There is also MX, a .10a (fingers) that is harder than Orange Sunshine. MX is super good! Long sustained perfect fingers for about 150 feet. Maybe the best 10a pitch in the state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 i have said this before but for pure jamming technique in general granite is better to practice on then basalt because basalt generally has lots of edges for feet and you just end up stemming most cruxs anyway, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 There is no way in God's green earth that you can stem MX. That section of the wall is pretty blank and MX and the 5.9 to its right must be jammed with fingers and feet in the crack the whole way up. If you don't believe me, go try it for yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 I have, and your right i didn't stem it but there are lots of good edges for feet, so your not really putting weight on your jams. Anyway I know folks who can lead 5.10 cracks at vantage/ tieton and don't know how to hand jam. One of them can't top rope that 8 mile buttress handcrack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Rumr – I think his reference points are Tieton and Vantage. If other basalt areas are excluded I think he is pretty much right about other areas being better places to learn crack technique. That’s not to say that there aren’t good crack climbs at Vantage and Tieton; however, most of the crack routes do not require a lot of crack technique. For instance the constrictions on Paul Maul effectively create little holes to stuff your fingers. P3 three of the Bale/Kramar in the Icicle is rated a letter grade easier but has much more technical jamming. Another example would be Wildcat Crack which is more of a face climb than a crack route. To the right of Wildcat there are several good crack climbs that require crack technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 P3 three of the Bale/Kramar in the Icicle is rated a letter grade easier but has much more technical jamming. especially when it's full of wasps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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