Weekend_Climberz Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 What about the second pitch of Aries at Index. Flaring OW's suck even worse uhhh...are you trying to compare aries to pipeline? No, just adding to the list. Quote
Matt_Alford Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 Damnation at Castle Rock is Fun times. Maybe more of a chimney up high, but enough wide moves to qualify for discussion. Quote
Off_White Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 Yeah, everyone knows Greg Cameron did the FFA of Pipeline free solo, but they may not know that he also onsight free soloed the Lost Arrow Chimney in the valley. He's still got the chops too, here's Greg on The Crucible last December, a classic hands to squeeze line at Mt Woodson (yeah, it's south of Smith). This route doesn't get done without a rope very often Note: not my picture, but rather shamelessly pinched from Greg's Photobucket. Quote
fgw Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 Pitch 2 of Backbone Ridge is a pretty nice one. Also, the short wide section on NW Corner of NEWS is decent. Off Tempo in Smith's Lower Gorge is a short one but a nice work out. OW's on Rebel Yell were nice as they seemed just below vertical. Quote
chris Posted March 26, 2007 Author Posted March 26, 2007 This is great! Rumr asked "why bother" and Fqw just gave a great answer - OW's are common on many alpine routes - NEWS, Rebel Yell, Backbone Ridge, Prusik, etc... It seems like every classic multi-pitch route in the Sierra has one pitch of OW - the Harding Route on Keeler, the South Face of Conness, the Steck-Salathe, on and on... Quote
still_climbin Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 (edited) My favorite, mostly because its a lot easier than it looks, is the 5.8 flake on the second pitch of SW Buttress of SEWS. Edited March 26, 2007 by still_climbin Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 The first pitch 5.8 offwidth on the LNR of Stuie, didn't even really materialize for me. You can sort of step around it, rather than jamming your body into it. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 the offwidth on EF Lexington seemed to require the requisite thrutching and awkwardenss to make it a classic. It is also in a pretty cool position. Quote
RuMR Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 the red and black taped 5.7 c/d absolutely crushes all! Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 26, 2007 Posted March 26, 2007 I did the red 5.11+ last week. It's not OW, but it's a rough stem job nonetheless. Quote
drater Posted March 29, 2007 Posted March 29, 2007 Road Head, 5.8+, unrepeated, Okanogan Hinterlands. Overhangs 20' in 45' of height, pulls two serious roofs. Just enough jugs to make it fun between the offwidth trutching. Purists feel free to start screaming... Quote
drater Posted March 30, 2007 Posted March 30, 2007 Shamefully, none. Sewed it up with 4 pieces. I always think it should be boldered out but it's that + part that stops me. If it was only 5.8, maybe. Quote
mrmack Posted April 2, 2007 Posted April 2, 2007 Interesting first-hand account of the Pipeline FFA and LAC solo here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145597&msg=148481#msg148481 Quote
bigwallben Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well. Quote
RuMR Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 yah...the cirque is gut!! what is gut? deutch for "good"...pun intended... Quote
RuMR Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well. HA!...considering you had the "big gear that slides easily" it was a sport climb/tr for you! so funny your description on rockclimbingDOTcom vs. this website...hahahaha " Ascent Note WWF all the way." you have to admit that if you don't have much mileage on OW, then it'd be "interesting"...otw its just another squeeze to a chimney... Quote
counterfeitfake Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. Hey, that's cool. I like ropes. Quote
willstrickland Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 Here's a good one we did Sunday (way south of Smith). Russ led it, thank god because the crux was in the first half, there was no pro until about the 2/3 mark, and a horrible landing. Hardest 25' of climbing I did all week. It's too tight in the back to get feet up on top of the block/spike at the bottom, so the entry is basically bombay on tight chicken wings, arm bars, and blind feet. Following it: Quote
bigwallben Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well. HA!...considering you had the "big gear that slides easily" it was a sport climb/tr for you! so funny your description on rockclimbingDOTcom vs. this website...hahahaha " Ascent Note WWF all the way." you have to admit that if you don't have much mileage on OW, then it'd be "interesting"...otw its just another squeeze to a chimney... yeah whatever man! I'm headed for the lower wall. perrrrrrrrrrrrrfect temps and sun to boot!! I admit yes I admit that I onsight tr'd/lead pipeline. yes I was scared. but not nearly as scared as on the slab climb that I had just done. Quote
bigwallben Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. Hey, that's cool. I like ropes. yes, i like ropes too. i especially like free ropes. Quote
RuMR Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 Did Pipeline a couple years ago. A couple more bolts and it will be a sport climb. I felt like a potential hardman until my buddy onsight free soloed it last summer. He definitely did not chimney it. He is 6' and 160 lb's. After having done this, he went up to the Boogie till you puke and warmed down by onsight soling it as well. HA!...considering you had the "big gear that slides easily" it was a sport climb/tr for you! so funny your description on rockclimbingDOTcom vs. this website...hahahaha " Ascent Note WWF all the way." you have to admit that if you don't have much mileage on OW, then it'd be "interesting"...otw its just another squeeze to a chimney... yeah whatever man! I'm headed for the lower wall. perrrrrrrrrrrrrfect temps and sun to boot!! I admit yes I admit that I onsight tr'd/lead pipeline. yes I was scared. but not nearly as scared as on the slab climb that I had just done. quit rubbin' it in! Dammit...i'm totally stuck on a project that has no time left before the deadline and no budget and we have tons more work to do...f-ing sucks...just wanna say "f-this" I'm going climbing...dammit... PS: slab climbing is infinitely more scary than OW climbing, in my humble opinion... Quote
Sol Posted April 3, 2007 Posted April 3, 2007 the 4th pitch of Narrow Arrow Direct at Index is the best off-width i've climbed in the PNW. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.