[TR] Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth - Goat Dome 2/3/2007

[catbirdseat]

Trip: Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth - Goat Dome

 

Date: 2/3/2007

 

Trip Report:

Roboboy received an email from Freeman with photos of an ice route he had done the previous week. Freeman said that he had never seen this route come in before. It was six pitches and WI3, on the left side of Goat Dome. When Rob forwarded the pictures I had to give it a go, as it seemed within my modest abilities.

 

 

The route is accessed by parking at the Snow Lake Parking Lot and hiking the trail a very short distance to the aquaduct and following that to the east, maybe a quarter of a mile until you can look up and see the route.

 

MCash led the odd pitches, I led the even ones, and Roboboy followed, as it was his first ever experience with water ice. The crux comes on the fourth pitch with a short but narrow WI3+ section. The sixth pitch is probably the most fun with a series of WI2+ bulges.

 

The ice was quite good for the most part and takes full length screws in most places.

 

First Pitch, Martin's Lead

 

Second Pitch

 

 

Fourth Pitch

 

Martin at top of Fifth Pitch

 

 

Sixth Pitch

 

 

Our descent was by walking up and to the west, and making one double rope rappel and two single rope rappels down to snow slopes and a direct line back to the starting point. We are pretty sure we could have walked off, had we just gone a bit further west and up.

 

I felt this is a fun route and a good choice for those who are beginning to lead on ice, as I am.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

16 mm ice screws (10), 60 m twin ropes, a set of nuts, should have had a picket for the belay on the 2nd pitch.

 

Approach Notes:

Dead easy approach from Snow Creek TH. At present, snowshoes are not necessary.

Edited February 4, 2007 by catbirdseat

[jstreet]

Sweet climb Brian. 6 nice pitches! Dam. Glad you got out and had some fun. Post a few photos of the climbing if you had the time to get any.

[Buckaroo]

Looks like a really good time on some really phat ice!! Nice exposure too.

 

Guess we missed that, it was dark when we went by there towards snowcreek wall and dark on the return.

 

 

[dbb]

sweet! more (nearly) roadside ice! that looks like a fun route

[TrogdortheBurninator]

That looks like a fun line. Well done.

[jstreet]

Nice climbing pics! Love that high exposure photo of Martin on the fifth pitch.

[catbirdseat]

Looks like a really good time on some really phat ice!! Nice exposure too.

 

Guess we missed that, it was dark when we went by there towards snowcreek wall and dark on the return.

 

Thanks for pointing out the dinnerplated screw. That's a beginner's mistake, to be sure. As a rock climber, I had my sights on a nut placement in that nice crack a little higher up, so I decided to just put a screamer on it and move up, rather than to mess around trying a new placement.

[AlpineMonkey]

That looks neat.

[catbirdseat]

I think that some of you more accomplished ice climbers might find this route to be a fun free solo. Just be careful on that fourth pitch. If you find the better descent, please report back.

[Billygoat]

Wow, what fun. Nice find Brian

[roboboy]

Post deleted by roboboy

[Matt_Alford]

Nice Ice Brian, way to get after it!

[Weekend_Climberz]

Man, you should have stayed there and gone with us on Sunday. Anyway, whatcha up to next weekend

[Freeman]

Because you spend so much time hunched over, Mark Shipman christened it "Bend Over" or "Bend Over, Baby". Sounds reasonable to me.

 

From the top of the 6th or 7th pitch (there is still some spotty ice above to the left) you can walk up circa 100 meters, then contour over the top of Goat Dome and down to Snow Creek trail. There will be a path.

[catbirdseat]

"Smokey Bent Me Over" was taken by Colin at Fee Demo Wall. How about "Larry the Tool Bent Me Over"?

[Weekend_Climberz]

There should definately be an ice route with a "Larry the tool" theme.

[MCash]

How about Goat Dome Falls, or does that not fit into the naming convention.

[catbirdseat]

How about Goat Dome Falls, or does that not fit into the naming convention.

A bit prosaic and I think Freeman ought to be honored with a reference to his "bend over" comment. How about "Larry Bent Me Over"? Snow Creek lot is Larry's happy hunting ground. He loves to hand out Green Stamps there.

[Freeman]

I'll ask the probable first ascentist tonight what he thinks. btw - he told me sunday that his ice pitch count is over 70 so far this year after we ran a few laps on Pearly Gates (another recommend WI-fun climb. Heck of it is, he works too.

[Weekend_Climberz]

I'll ask the probable first ascentist tonight what he thinks. btw - he told me sunday that his ice pitch count is over 70 so far this year after we ran a few laps on Pearly Gates (another recommend WI-fun climb. Heck of it is, he works too.

 

Man that's a pretty good count. I've got 11 days, but only about 30-35 pitches since November. Got a normal 9-5, too :tup:

 

Here's to all those working and climbing :brew:

[shipman]

I thought it was fun and easy both when we did it a while back, and of course we had to "bend over" a lot because it wasn't very steep. As far as I am concerned, you guys can name it by consensus if you like.

 

[catbirdseat]

Are you the same Mark Shipman who came to the aid of two people on Mt. Dickerman in 1999, and who hiked out solo to summon help?

[KingsMM]

what do you think the chances the route will come in this year? or was this just a freak of nature?

 

[Serenity]

You should consult the oracle Layton. He apparently has some kind of voodoo vision thing where he can predict snow and ice cycles.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

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