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corvallisclimb

Oregon Bolt Replacement

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Given how many people are always hanging on it, replacing the first bolt of Smerk wouldn't be a bad idea. The two anchors on top of the Chemistry slab are also pretty lousy.

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Great idea. I dont even think the first bolt on smerk is a real bolt. More like bent metal that someone made in there garage.

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Funny you should mention re-bolting at carver, we are on it. Will keep folks updated.

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now there is no reason to not go up there and climb this route.

 

Smith Rock

 

The Wombat - Santiam Highway Ledges

14 lead bolts

6 anchor bolts

 

W/ Jim Ablao & Aaron Webb August 09

 

Most thanks for this goes to Jim for hiking up most of the gear and ropes. And fixing a line so I could jug up and discover the anchor had been half chewed through by a rat while I bounced around on it. Now go get some this is an incredible route.

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Menagerie Wilderness

 

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress

2 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

W/ Brian Gilbert Aug 09

 

and while we where climbing that route Chris rapped in and...

 

The Bridge - The Newt Route

3 Lead Bolts

4 Lead Hangers

3 Anchor Hangers

1 Added lead bolt to P3(since its his FA)

 

By Chris Fralick

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oh whoops then I came back a couple days later by my self and did a little more work on the bridge...

 

Menagerie Wilderness

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress

1 Lead Bolt

2 Anchor bolts

removed the offending tree during the mid route rap and the bush wich gets in the way linking P3 and P4

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Carver Cliff

 

About a month ago I replaced the first two bolts on Smerk and the anchor at the top of the crack to the right (the anchor most people traverse over to when they climb Smerk).

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I have not read this thread for a while. You rock Tyler. It is awesome that you and others are doing this. I can't wait to get on Santiam Hwy Ledges.

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Smith Rock State Park

 

Diamonds and Rust Buttress - Slow Train (5.7R)

8 lead bolts 2 anchor bolts

 

w/ Catherine Power and John Rich 2/13/10

 

 

This is a cool adventure route that should get some traffic with some new bolts. A long 150' pitch to a single rope rap or continue up Diamonds and Rust for two more pitches.

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dude! seriously, do you have a regifting plan? i can find a nice new home for quite a few of those guys! :)

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Smith Rock

 

Challengers Lost Pinnacle

3 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

W/ Adam Cox 5/2010

 

Menagerie Wilderness

 

The Bridge - Butterfly Buttress

1 Lead Bolt

2 Anchor Bolts

 

W/ Joe Richardson 8/2010

 

Royal Arch - B&M Route

2 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

W/ Jonathan Shrock 9/2010

 

Royal Arch - Telegraph Road

4 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

9/2010

 

Royal Arch - Wintergreen Chasam/Rap Route

2 Anchor Bolts

 

Wolf Rock

 

Black Kettle

7 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

W/ Chris Fralick 7/2010

 

Jay Peterson Route

6 Lead Bolts

2 Anchor Bolts

 

W/ Jake Ringold 6/2010

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sounds like you have knowledge of the sport routes at Wolf. Can you share your beta? went out there to explore with the Willamette guidebook, many new routes??? what are they? want to get out there to climb. thanks. Jack

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interesting. Been on my list for a while. Guess it might be time to head down and explore a bit and see what kind of trouble I can get into :)

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sounds like you have knowledge of the sport routes at Wolf. Can you share your beta? went out there to explore with the Willamette guidebook, many new routes??? what are they? want to get out there to climb. thanks. Jack

 

He's on LF down in the valley so ur betta will have to wait.

 

I have climbed out there a few times.... I will say the place really sucks! IMHO no one should ever consider going to that choss pile :)

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