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Posted

Lead up past the crux which was very steep and set up a hanging belay. My partner, suckbm climbed up to my belay, and just past the belay his tools blew out. He took a fall directly onto me and my belay and also droped one of his leashless tools. He then started yelling, "fuck climbing leashless, fuck french canadians, fuck, fuck, fuck..." We were past the hardspot, WI 5 max and all that we had left was a few meters of WI 4- or 3 left. We were 3/4 up the climb. We were both really dissapointed as we both thought the climb was finished. We ended up bailing off a single screw, suckbm could go no higer with a mono tool. We then, or more like me got drunk for the hike out. Guess we'll have to go back for this one.

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Posted

Good effort guys. To bad about the mishap that squashed your completion of the climb but glad that no one got hurt. Sorry, but Alex and I were up at Strobach on Sunday and we completed the route. We retrieved your bail screw. Alex has it. You guys have been kicking butt up there and there's more.

Posted

The dropline has fallen. Nice job J and A :tup: :tup:

 

Hey suckbm, glad to hear you're okay. I tried out my umbelicals for the first time this weekend, and found that they caused just as many problems as worry about dropping them when you don't have them. Back to the drawing board for me...

Posted

We were really disappointed to see pick marks heading up the column when we got to the base at first light. "That looks great! .... Holy crap, someone climbed it!!"

 

We were contemplating the second ascent anyway because it looked so fine, but it took us til 2:30 in the afternoon to spot your bail screw. Up until then we had thought it had been climbed complete and so we were focussed on other things while we had daylight.

 

Its a good line. The overhanging thin line in the corner with the mineral staining looks awesome, too! There is so much ice in there right now, its just great! Jeff will post a TR later with some pics.

Posted

way to send guys! can you explain to us what it is like to be an ice ninja, or would that be like a pigeon explaining politics to an orange?

 

mineral staining indeed....

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