Jens Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Can anyone recommend a good excercise for me to help me hang on to my ice tools? I swithced to leashless 100% of the time last year and am finding myslef pumping out on ice climbs way to fast. With leashes, I used to be able to hang on forever. The Europeans and Canadians are calling leashes aid. It seems like the standard monkey hang technique for vertical ice is no good anymore? With leashes, the weak link is the biceps so the monkey hang rocks. Going leashless, the weak link for me at least is the grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Sounds like it is not your grip strength but your grip endurance right? Try similar exercises that focus on endurance. it is difficult to try not to overgrip tools, especially if you have l ashes to back you up, but to build up your grip endurance I would hang on your tools without feet touching, when you start getting pumped, try shaking out just like you would on rock and rotate focusing on keeping your weight on your frame. As you continue to get more ad more pumped from the grip, add a toe touch but trying to eep as much of your weight on your hands and bone frame, do this until failure. Then wait 30 secs. and do it again. Track how long you hang each time and chart it daily. Try to relx when doing this and see how loosely you can grip your axes without slipping. This of course is easier said then done while actually on the sharp end 20 ft. above your last screw, but if you have everything else down and are solid on ice, this would be the next thing. I must let you know that I am no expert and cannot lead over WI4, but have improved my grip strength dramatically this way both for ice climbing and a similar workout for improving grip on slopers..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 (edited) One more related point to make is that when one small, specific set of muscles gets worked hard, such as hand grip muscles, you're not as likely to have that burning need to increase your breathing rate like in an aerobic activity, although these muscles still do need the extra oxygen. You need to consciously focus on breathing regularly and deeply to keep those muscles supplied with oxygen and make them capable of holding for the maximum time. And I agree that exercising in the same way you will actually use the muscles is generally the best way to exercise. Hang from the rafters in your garage or some similarly strong and cosmetically unimportant structure. Edited December 12, 2006 by ClimbingPanther Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 I would agree with Ryland. It's way too easy to overgrip with leashless. Try and bring some awareness to that while you are climbing. The hanging on a doorframe or pullup bar at home is right on. I struggle with going from drytooling (usually barehanded) to ice (full on gloves). Maybe wear gloves while doing your reps at home? The best part about leashless is the the ability to take rests and the manouverability (is that a word?) of releasing my hands to switch tools (mini-rest). Take advantage of those aspects. What tools are you climbing on? -c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbingPanther Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Good point about the gloves, it's true. The amount of squeeze you need to hold on is more when you have to crunch all that squishy insulation. Do they make gloves that are thinner on the grip and burly & warm on the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SemoreJugs Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 The Europeans and Canadians are calling leashes aid. I dont know, call me crazy, but aren't ice tools and crampons aid technically? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Post deleted by fern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 do laps on jug routes at the climbing gym until you can't even use your keys to open the front door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 and remember, legs & feet save your arms & hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Before the ice season started I use to make 2 inch PVC handle to do pull ups on that seemed to help. You can do straight pull up just hanging on the handles, or off set one hand on the bar the other on the handle. The times I tried leashless, I made sure to do a lot of shaking out so that I wouldn't over grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Jens, Get on a TR and run a bunch of laps. Practice climbing without griping the tools hardly at all. Find out what the bare minimum for hanging on is.... and shake out alot, the biggest benefit of leashless imho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 ever try farmers walk? take 2 50#-60# dumb bells, bigger grip the better. and just walk until pumped silly, then pullups on tools then repeat.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Jens, I have found that by being taking a poractive stance you can prevent the pump. I shake out and drop my hand down to my knee whenever I get the chance. Also with leashless tools make use of the fact that they hook in ice so well that you don't need to swing as much. Futhermore, when you feel yourself getting pumped dig both of fron points in good place your tools above you right next to each other and try and put as much weight on your feet as possible. Keeping your arms straight so you are hanging on your bones. In this postion alternate switching hands and shaking thme out below you wasit. To stop your hand that is on the tool for getting over worked just put your finger tips around the shaft ( so you don't have a closed fist). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Thanks for the replys. I guess I'm just weak. I have excellent technique and footwork, just my arms suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Leashes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Jens, try pulling out more on the tool instead of downward. That should help a little. You need a better stick for the tool to stay put though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flush_Amazing Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 ...I guess I'm just weak. ... Riiiiiiight.... I'd say leading grade 5+ ice = not weak. It's funny that you are asking advice from all of us couch potatoes though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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