brian_m Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Trip: Banks Lake - Trotsky's Folly, Children of the Sun, & Champagne Date: 12/8/2006 Trip Report: Just a few more pics from our trip to Banks. WeekendClimberz leading lower ramp below Trotsky's Folly Pillar Looking up at pillar. Trogdor on Trotsky's Folly The Burninator climbing up through the fog on Children of the Sun... searching for the ever elusive Cowgirl. Topping out on Children of the Sun MCash on Children of the Sun Trogdor swinging his way up Champagne Brian_m on Champagne Brian_m testing out the new X-Monsters... nice tools! MCash shaking out on Champagne... looks like he likes the xmonsters too. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Sweet dude!! :tup: Good Times!! Good Times!! Quote
Alpinfox Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Did you guys lead COTS and Champagne or TR them? Was Champagne very wet? Were you there on Friday (the 8th) or Saturday? I was there on Friday and didn't see you guys. AlpineDave's TR Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Yeah right! I'm a 'miniwanker' remember Champagne was dripping pretty hard on the back of the pillar, but the ice was still in great conditions. Thanks for the pick holes guys :tup: Both very cool routes Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Were you there on Friday (the 8th) or Saturday? I was there on Friday and didn't see you guys. We drove by you guys racking up for TF on Friday afternoon. We hit that an hour or two before you guys and did a lot of driving afterwards to see what else was in. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Dude, we need to go drytool'n!! Kinda silly considering there's all that ice out there. Suppose to be cold this weekend starting on Friday evening. Hope it don't all fall down Quote
G-spotter Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 What's up with Trogdors poons, does he really have heel spurs on Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 You should see him do a figure-four. Pretty f'n sick Quote
selkirk Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 I got out last week. Itching to lead the M5 now, but of course it's supposed to be wet all week Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 (edited) No spurs, not sure what is hanging of the poons. Maybe a leaf. Edited December 11, 2006 by TrogdortheBurninator Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Nice work leading champagne pax. The First tier seemed to be in pretty easy shape, but the second and third looked tough. Trotsky's felt like 4+ until we put some pick holes into it, a pretty far cry from the grade 3 in the book. Does the climb ramp out a lot more when it is fatter? Children of the Sun was by far the highlight of the trip for me. It would have been a heady lead, but on toprope the climbing was just outstanding. Probably the single most fun pitch I've ever toproped on any medium (rock or ice). Quote
G-spotter Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 No spurs, not sure what is hanging of the poons. Maybe a leaf. maybe it's a squashed peasant Quote
Alpinfox Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 Nice work leading champagne pax. The First tier seemed to be in pretty easy shape, but the second and third looked tough. Trotsky's felt like 4+ until we put some pick holes into it, a pretty far cry from the grade 3 in the book. Does the climb ramp out a lot more when it is fatter? Thanks! Champagne was great. Always a good idea to have your first ice of the season be (probably) your hardest lead to date. I agree that Trotsky's was in tough shape. Dave did it several years ago and said it really was a three then. This time we all agreed it was four-ish; especially when leading it in the dark. I'd really like to get on COTS. Quote
Jens Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 Nice climbing guys. In your pictures, "Even cowgirls get the blues or children of the sun" looked to be in much harder shape than normal. That is certainly one of the awesomest climbs! Quote
MCash Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 Pax and Dave, What is the decent off Champagne? 2 double rope raps off of V-threads? Thanks Quote
dbb Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 you can walk off up and right, but we just made one 200ft rap from a small tree. Quick and easy way back to the base. Quote
ken4ord Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 You guys suck! I miss ice climbing, I am freaking jealous. Quote
dbconlin Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 Nice job guys, Children of the Sun looks really sweet. Who's gonna lead that? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 That was f'n "A" hard... I was a wus and only lowered about halfway down to just where the thing was detached about 4-5 feet from the rock behind it. It would go on lead, but your pro would be pretty shitty. It gets a lot of sun with it's south-eastern exposure. Quote
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