Rainier concessions

[Suz]

So the news is out...

 

http://www.mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/

(thanks, Mike!)

 

The question now is: Which is the lesser of the three evils? (ie: Who whould you work for?)

[Mr_Phil]

The Mounties!

[dbb]

Hey Mike, do you have a link to the full explanation of the contracts? Like what "1/3rd" of routes are off limits to commercial guiding? Does this mean I can't get a guide to take me up Liberty Wall Direct!!??

 

One interesting change to note is no more guiding on the weekends.

[ClimbingPanther]

Awwwww, I thought this was about concessions, like, you know, at a basketball game or something. I was really hoping they had built ANOTHER hut at Muir to sell and and and add to the list of typical climbing supplies that are no longer needed to do Rainier.

 

[Jens]

I heard 3rd hand they are gonna have multiple guide services sharing the same hut. Can you imagine how interesting that could potentially be! - turned off alarms, fist fights etc.

[chris]

From the NPS - Mt. Rainier Website:

 

Selection of New Guide Service Concessions for Mount Rainier National Park Announced

 

Pacific West Regional Director Jon Jarvis announced today that final selection has been made for three commercially guided mountaineering and winter services Concession Contracts to operate within Mount Rainier National Park. The required and authorized services include guided summit climbs (both summer and winter), mountaineering day schools, multi-day alpine training courses, guided winter day use activities and guided winter overnight trips of varying lengths.

 

This announcement is the culmination of a process that began in 2002 with the development of a Commercial Services Plan (CSP) for the park. The Commercial Services Plan outlined the future for guided activities within the park. Public input on the CSP indicated a desire for more choices regarding guided mountaineering on the mountain.

 

Traditionally, one concessioner has guided the majority of summit attempts on Mount Rainier. The final CSP decision allowed for three Concession Contracts for guided mountaineering services on the mountain. One contract authorized 50% of commercial use on the Muir Route (Prospectus A) and two contracts authorized 25% each of commercial use on the Muir Route (Prospectus B). All other routes and guided activities are shared equally among the three concessions. This decision was intended to expand visitor’s choices with respect to guided climbing opportunities, encourage variety and innovation in the types of services provided and to foster competition among the three concessioners.

 

In order to further implement these goals, the National Park Service also determined that each of the three guided climbing Concessions Contracts should be awarded to different entities.

 

Proposals were evaluated following guidelines of current concession law. As a result of those evaluations the larger Concession Contract was awarded to Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (MORA001), and the two smaller contracts awarded to Alpine Ascents International (MORA005) and International Mountain Guides (MORA006).

 

These contracts will be effective for a 10-year period beginning on or about October 15, 2006.

[Stefan]

I like the idea of having no guiding of anybody on Friday nights and Saturday nights.

 

Now that is a plus!

[Skisports]

"The NPS at Mt Rainier is OPENING professional guiding opportunities for competition to INDEPENDENT GUIDES (not concessions). After some research, you'll find that the scope of the introductory program IS quite limited, but the intent is for that program to expand. Moreover, other parks and agencies are watching Rainier, as independent guiding here could be precedent-setting within the industry, Park Service and other federal agencies."

 

Does anyone know about this ? Is this through the AMGA ??

[ScaredSilly]

All of this can be found in the commercial services plan that was approved last spring. Unfortunately, I can not find the docs on line currently as the link seems to be down.

 

http://www.nps.gov/archive/mora/current/park_mgt.htm#CSP

 

In a nut shell the independent guide program is not through any agency but guides will have to show proficiency which may be through AMGA or similar.

 

Also as part of this and the Camp Muir restoration. The gumbo cook shelter that was constructed under questionable conditions will be torn down. And more than likely each of the consessions will have their own hut such as Weatherport which can be taken down each season. The more interesting part is what will become of the guides hut. Personally I would like to see all of the guides in Wetherports, the NPS a frame removed and with the rangers using the guidfe hut. This would certainly reduce some of the permanent footprint at Muir.

[chris]

The RMI "cook shack" and the current public shelter were built by the CCC and the WPA, respectively, and are listed as historic landmarks. The story I've heard is that the Butler Shelter (that little a-frame) and the RMI "bread box" will be removed, the rangers moved to the "cook shack", the public shelter renovated and handed over to the guide services, and a new public shelter built at the site of the "bread box." This is complete heresay.

[chris]

"The NPS at Mt Rainier is OPENING professional guiding opportunities for competition to INDEPENDENT GUIDES (not concessions). After some research, you'll find that the scope of the introductory program IS quite limited, but the intent is for that program to expand. Moreover, other parks and agencies are watching Rainier, as independent guiding here could be precedent-setting within the industry, Park Service and other federal agencies."

 

Does anyone know about this ? Is this through the AMGA ??

From what I remember (Mike Gauthier, you out there?), ten ten-day IBPs (Incidental Business Permits) will be awarded annually to IFMGA/UIAGM guides who can also meet MRNP's liability insurance requirement.

[ScaredSilly]

The RMI "cook shack" and the current public shelter were built by the CCC and the WPA, respectively, and are listed as historic landmarks. The story I've heard is that the Butler Shelter (that little a-frame) and the RMI "bread box" will be removed, the rangers moved to the "cook shack", the public shelter renovated and handed over to the guide services, and a new public shelter built at the site of the "bread box." This is complete heresay.

 

We are talking about the same thing just different names. And yes the Public Shelter and the Guides Hut are on the historic register. Most people do not know this.

 

As for the heresay this would not surprise me. Last year I heard some of the "plans" that the NPS planners wanted to do at Muir. Having delt with them at the City of Rocks all I can say is that the NPS planners have a lot to be desired. They seem to bent on building for the sake of building have do not have much of a clue.

[Tennessee]

I like the idea of having no guiding of anybody on Friday nights and Saturday nights.

 

Now that is a plus!

 

Actually, the rule about no guiding on Friday or Saturday nights does not apply to the routes in the "Muir Corridor" (DC, Gib Ledges, Nisqually), or any other non-summit trips.

 

There is no guiding on weekends on the other routes where guiding is allowed - Liberty Ridge, Emmons, Fuhrer Finger, Kautz Glacier.

 

There is no guiding allowed at all in the pie shaped area above 7000 feet starting at Success Cleaver going around to Ptarmigan Ridge.

[Mike_Gauthier]

Skisports, you're referring to the CUA process. The applications for that program closed on Sept 30th, so it's a done deal for 2007. BTW, there was no prefrence for AMGA, but AMGA guides could have applied.

 

Scaredsilly and mtnfreak, the Camp Muir Plan is still in progress. There are a number of options, but most of them take quite a bit of $$$. Therefore, nothing is really happening fast when it comes to tearing down buildings or creating new ones. And as for those proposed weatherports, we've tried them before, they really don't work well up there.

 

Seems like Mr. Tennessee has done is homework. Nice work.

 

Here is something from the News Tribune

 

Changing of the guides should be good thing for Rainier

 

I was talking last week about climbing on Mount Rainier with the park’s lead climbing ranger, Mike Gauthier.

We were discussing the astounding fact that there was no major rescue on the mountain throughout the peak season.

 

But that was not the only big news related to climbing the mountain to come down last week.

 

“The news of no rescues is remarkable, and the news of the guide shake-up is equally remarkable,” Gauthier said.

 

The man better known as “Gator” on the slopes of the 14,410-foot icon of the Northwest certainly has a unique perspective. He has been climbing the mountain since 1990 and has been part of the climbing ranger detachment the last 17 seasons. He has been the supervisory climbing ranger since 2003.

 

“History is going to look back at the breakup of the guide service into three as a big step in the park’s history and climbing history,” Gauthier said.

 

Eric Simonson agreed with the historical aspect. He is co-owner of International Mountain Guides, one of three companies that will guide climbs on the mountain beginning next year.

 

Rainier Mountaineering Inc. retains the largest contract, being able to lead 24 climbers per day up the popular Camp Muir route. IMG and Seattle-based Alpine Ascents will be able to lead 12 climbers a day up that route.

 

But the three contracts will end a 37-year-old monopoly once enjoyed by RMI. The people I’ve talked to say everyone involved in climbing Mount Rainier will benefit from the change.

 

Guides will benefit because they will be able to shop their skills to different companies, Simonson said. That will likely mean higher pay for experienced guides.

 

The park will benefit from higher environmental standards dictated by the new contracts.

 

Gauthier and Simonson feel the three companies will benefit from the competition. The bidding process has already led the three companies to look for creative alternatives to attract customers.

 

“Instead of being one company, it’s now a bunch of bright companies that have been doing this a long time,” Gauthier said.

 

People who take a guided climb will benefit as companies offer different types of trips. Simonson said IMG is considering longer summit trips, maybe four days. Gauthier said lower client-to-guide ratios, as low as 2-to-1, should improve summit success rates. More importantly, it will improve safety.

 

“The guide doesn’t have a whole bunch of people to look after,” he said.

 

Whether the competition means lower prices remains to be seen. RMI is still advertising its two-day climb at $795 per person.

 

“The price might not go up or down, but if that’s the bar we have, everyone can offer more or less. It could be $795 for a four-day trip versus a two-day trip,” said park superintendent David Uberuaga. “I think overall the public will get a better value because of the competition.”

 

Gauthier pointed out that nonguided climbers also will benefit.

 

“They also created commercial-free times and zones. The popular routes, like Kautz, won’t have guided climbs on the weekends,” he said. The routes from Liberty Ridge west to the Tahoma Glacier will be commercial-free as well, Uberuaga said.

 

It will certainly be an interesting year on the mountain when the 2007 climbing season begins.

 

Hopefully the companies will quickly develop a rapport so we don’t have a local repeat of the controversy that shrouded the 2006 season on Mount Everest. Teams there were so intent on reaching the summit that they climbed right past climbers in distress, leading to at least one death.

 

Gauthier is confident the new set-up will be a positive one, just as interest in climbing Mount Rainier is showing renewed growth.

 

“When you raise the bar, you raise the bar for everyone, and that’s usually a good thing,” he said.

[Couloir]

[Kraken]

Mister Gator, when can we expect a detailed report from the NPS regarding next year's situation at Muir? I realize there must be lots of stuff to iron out, but should we be expecting some word sooner rather than later?

[Mike_Gauthier]

Mister Gator, when can we expect a detailed report from the NPS regarding next year's situation at Muir? I realize there must be lots of stuff to iron out, but should we be expecting some word sooner rather than later?

 

Yes, details to be worked out, most likely, later...

[Mike_Gauthier]

A point of clarification on the CUA applications...

 

The CUA process I referred to above is actually STILL open. The "initial round" closed on Sept 30th, but some types of permits remain available. B/c of this, the application process is extended. It's my understanding that those who did apply (correctly) before Sept 30 will get priority, as long as they meet the standards, etc.

 

As a reminder, the application is "rigorous" by some people's standards. Make sure you fill out everything completely.