Best .11a Crack in Lower Gorge?

[alexbaker]

I'm not sure myself. Discuss.

 

Alex

[layton]

the best .11a crack in the lower gorge is the one having the most fun

[alexbaker]

Maybe I should ask just, whats the best crack in the lower gorge, regardless of grade?

[G-spotter]

The best crack is the one having the most fun, regardless of grade.

[texplorer]

On the Road

[markd]

my favorite 11a in the lower gorge (or the park for that matter) is cry of the poor.

[layton]

Master Looney (although not ness a "crack climb") is fun

[kevbone]

Best climb in gorge, regardless of grade. 10.b to the right of On the Road. 4 star climb. the name is escaping me.

[crimper]

kevbone, you're thinking of badfinger.

[layton]

regardless of grade: Morning Star, Prometheus, Last Chance

[kevbone]

kevbone, you're thinking of badfinger.

 

Thanks, I knew it had something to do with finger!

[phillygoat]

Pure Palm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(I kid, I kid!)

[crimper]

if we start a thread on "most hated crux" in the lower gorge, i'd like to nominate blood clot.

 

anyone else feel like showing some hate?

 

PS: i'll second morning star and cry of the poor as the best of the gorge.

[phillygoat]

if we start a thread on "most hated crux" in the lower gorge, i'd like to nominate blood clot.

 

 

Oh man, I hear you! I got my ass handed to me on that route! Sometimes that inspires me to dig deeper, but in that case... I walked away. Thanks, but no thanks.

[markd]

...thread drift

 

to keep this thread alive, we should start a list of our favorite routes in the lower gorge regardless of grade or style.

 

in no order:

-cry of the poor

-last chance

-original sin

-try to be hip

-mantra

[Mos_Chillin]

I think Master Looney is pretty fuckin' cool. Full on roof jammin!

[goatboy]

The best crack is the one having the most fun, regardless of grade.

 

What a clever, cute, and ultimately original idea!

[crimper]

alright, so it was thread drift. but i had to mention blood clot. yech. i can hardly type the words.

[fern]

 

I liked Blood Clot. My most hated crux is on Quasar

 

Bring on the Lower Gorge recommendations, I am making a fall tick list

 

I haven't been on many .11s there but it seems like at those grades they start to become more face-climb less pure crack climb ... or at least the cruxs are face climbing sections to access easier cracks.

[Cobra_Commander]

Wow, likes Blood Clot but hates Quasar.

 

On the Road is an excellent climb if you survive the first 20 feet.

 

Last Chance is incredible, along with Prometheus.

 

Not a crack climb, but if you can yard your way through White Trash, the upper 5.10 extension is phenomenal jug hauling and way easier than it looks. 70m advisable, 60m could get you to the big boulder.

 

 

And Bush Doctor!

 

And this!

 

The approach (until a friend hacked it up with a machete):

[markd]

And this!

 

nice pic cobra. this beauty could only be the very aesthetic and beautiful masquerade! did you climb this? hats off to you if you did.

[Cobra_Commander]

did you climb this? hats off to you if you did.

 

Not a chance, but we did gaze at it for awhile wondering what it would be like climbing on that small gear.

[fern]

hey Cobra_Commander ... what's that bolted thing on the Shakespeare cliff that I was TRing last year?

[markd]

hey Cobra_Commander ... what's that bolted thing on the Shakespeare cliff that I was TRing last year?

 

measure for measure 11d

[wimsey]

best in lower gorge:

cry of the poor

last chance

badfinger

etc

etc

etc

 

pretty effing great and no chalk (personal favs)

bold line

lion of judah

southern cross

night shift

full court press

soft touch (cause i like one star routes that are better than Moonshine)

 

Nice to see the Bush Doctor shot. Does that climb see 2 ascents a year? I doubt it.

Masquerade is likely unrepeated on lead. Watts' talent is underestimated. If anyone can pull the direct start to Lion of Judah (12a?) I'd love to see it done.