Blake Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 ok, please keep this spray free: When does a route "begin" and "end" for the sake of a commitment grade? Does the route begin when you hit the rock section that most parties would rope up for? How about for snow requiring crampons or with crevasse danger? I remember when Mike Layton called the WA Pass traverse a grade VI and some people felt like when your route crosses a spot with a trail to it (such as Burgundy col) that you are no longer adding more time/commitment on to what you had previously done. If the descent of a climb is long and involved (ie getting off of Goode and back to the NE side of the mountain) does that change the commitment grade, or does the route grade stop at the summit? Should the grade of a route reflect the time it takes to get up the route and back to a certain spot, or just up to the top? I guess this is all trickier for traverses that have no summit, or climbs like the "Plan B " that include a traverse after the summit itself as part of the descent. I did a climb earlier this year that included a bivy atop a glacier, before the technical rock section which definitely took a full day, but I figured it was probably a grade IV because the glacier part didn't really get factored in. If glaciers are considered on-route 'technical terrain', then that would effect the time commitment/grade of many routes. Are they? If this has all been hashed out before, or its just too inherently subjective, then I guess it doesn't need to be discussed any more. I'm not trying to attack anyone here, I just want to figure out how it all works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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