leearden Posted August 15, 2006 Posted August 15, 2006 what about the old school principal you ask? Quote
leearden Posted August 15, 2006 Posted August 15, 2006 directly behind the laser cut slab that "OLD POLE" is climbing lies "Fists of Fury", a 15 foot fist crack at 45degrees overhanging. And just behind that is the bunker where we lay waiting with gopher rifles for those crank- monkeys to come back. Once I caught some o' dem damned blacktoothed, hillbilly, sumbitches tryin to steal the change out of the ashtray in my chevellle, swear to god i did. lucky for them I'm a coward, but next time Donny sez he'll drive his pick-up so he'll have his brasss-knuckles Quote
DonnyBaker Posted August 16, 2006 Posted August 16, 2006 Hey leearden that's real funny man. last time I was out at Mclellen was with Rob Ditrick, man that guy is crazy!!!! We used to have a football play designed for him called hotrod banana, He won state like three times. I swear to God me and him and stevey winkler were the only ones to throw our caps at graduation. Anyway last time I went out to Mclellen I found one of those tight rope lines I set it up in my yard and was doing flips right in front of my neighbors faces. Quote
RuMR Posted August 16, 2006 Posted August 16, 2006 you actually graduated?? from what, kindergarten?? Quote
olyclimber Posted August 17, 2006 Posted August 17, 2006 thats a beautiful slice of americana. a poem, it doesn't use to many words, but the rich imagery drapes and drips off of it. Quote
drater Posted August 17, 2006 Posted August 17, 2006 olyclimber's first stop will likely be the Flying J on Sprague. d00d, as Donnie so defensively pointed out, the Flying J is on broadway. Hit stall #4 for a "happy ending". Arden, those boldering photo's would be of the place you offered the tour of last year? Looks sick, how about a pic of that overhanging crack you spoke of? And a pic for the masses...the devil himself...hope he doesn't kite as well as he climbs... Quote
high_on_rock Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 I kind of like the logic of what Steve is raising. What if we formed a local "Advisory Board" for the bolting of local routes. A way to determine what the local consensus is, if there is a consensus, in the local climbing community. Comprise the board of local climbers from all of the contingencies, and rethink some of the bolting practices. Give me a place to argue for bolting the Dihedral, give Steve a place to argue for rebolting the top of Minne, give Dane a place to argue for pulling bolts where he does not like them. Can anyone come up with a way to create a board that would fairly comprise all climbing mentalities and not just end up a bunch of folks from one camp trying to impose their will upon others? Just a thought. Eric Christianson Quote
Roadstead1 Posted August 19, 2006 Posted August 19, 2006 Steve, I'm also sorry for the way things turned out, and I was wrong in taken the stand that I did. If I can Help in anyway at all call me. (drill,studs,hangers) I can't speak for Marty but he's been know to set a route or two in his day and could be a great help in placeing new studs. Again; I regret Helping spin this thread out of control. Theres more to the Spokane that just Spray! We just don't post it. Quote
NYC007 Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 was out at minne the other day and noticed some bolt anchors up and left of Tree Crack, they were about the big over hang. Is there a route below that, looks hard and no chalk.. Just curious Quote
spotly Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 Alfred Hitchcock Presents (5.11+) is to the left (looking at the rock) and Aid Roof (A3+) is on the other side. Must be one of those - don't think there's anything between them. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 7, 2006 Posted October 7, 2006 (edited) isn't there a good tree anchor above those? It's been a while since I looked around up there. edit: it seems like with the frequency that these are climbed, those bolts aren't likely used for the climbs you mentioned. what gives? Edited October 7, 2006 by kurthicks Quote
spotly Posted October 7, 2006 Posted October 7, 2006 I've not seen the bolts - only commenting on the routes to either side of Tree Crack. Quote
NYC007 Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 (edited) yeah I know those climbs, but the bolts dont match either like Kurt said. Oh well thought there may be something new.. Edited October 9, 2006 by NYC007 Quote
Marty Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 To the right, proj. Probably v11-12 (so Im told) as a direct start to peter peckerman 5.13a. F-ing hard if you're over 25yrs old or a non dyno master like Donny B. To the left, a chipped and abandoned proj. (And no I didn't chip this pyle either so F. yourself for even thinking it wankers). And this chipped proj is really hard since all the holds and bolts and stuff ain't there. Good luck and hope you got the wingspan for 10 ft. lockoffs. Quote
Winter Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 chopping bolts and chipping holds - makes a lot of sense. at least at rocky butte we pass on the chipping holds for snortin meth and hucking rocks at cars on I205. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 so the route left of tree crack is chipped AND goes up through the highest roof? It sounds like it's ready for drytooling. Quote
DonnyBaker Posted October 15, 2006 Posted October 15, 2006 Shut up marty, you stole my hold off that route, along with a bag of cheese doodles out of my backpack. Digit specific jaundus my ass, then why aren't your toes yellow marty. That's right I'm asking yah????? You got no right. I SWEAR TO GOD I'LL TAKE A BASEBALL BAT TO THAT BIRDBATH IN YOU r FRONT YARD IFYOU DON'T GIVE ME BACK MY HOLD!!!!!! Quote
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