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Jens

first ascent [TR] Sherpa N. Ridge & balanced rock 1st free ascent- 7/11/2006

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Climb: Sherpa N. Ridge & balanced rock 1st free ascent-

 

Date of Climb: 7/11/2006

 

Trip Report:

After recenly meeting Scott GG, we decided to climb the north ridge of sherpa peak in a day and along the way, try to make the first free ascent of the sherpa balanced rock. Scott picked me up early in the morning and we started up at the stuart lake trailhead at 4:45 am. Scott passed my litmus test for new climbing partners which states that they must like either coffee or beer-at least one of the two. People that dislike both scare me. We trodded in and eventually thrutched up a dirty chimney where Scott tied the rope around his waist and placed a piece on his way to the notch. Once on the north ridge, we put the rope away and soloed the entire route to the summit (The final steep rock above the final tower puts the climber in a spectacular position). After summiting, we went over to have a go at the balanced rock. I had climbed it several years ago and new how much fun it was. I climbed up on the east side of the balanced rock where a short section of overhang with very thin face climbing led to a small ledge. If you were to slip at this section, you'd break both your ankles for sure. You have to commit to the move. I traversed right and jumped for a small edge and managed to stick it. Scott followed the pitch. We descended down the east and decided to descend the NE couloir. We had tennis shoes with crampons strapped on so down climbing the thing was quite slow. We reached the basin and hit the creek and eventually reached the car that early evening.

beta: The mosquitos are really bad right now. Hopefully Scott will post some pics.

Summary: Sherpa- North Ridge & Sherpa Balanced Rock FFA 5.10c, Jens Klubberud & Scott Gg.

-

 

Gear Notes:

Bug Spray

Mosquito headnet

red bull for the drive home

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Scott passed my litmus test for new climbing partners which states that they must like either coffee or beer-at least one of the two. People that dislike both scare me.

 

Then how in the hell do you manage to climb with me?

 

Nice work guys; sounds like a great trip.

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Being way into the "light and not-so-fast" scene, I am always looking for ways to lighten my pack. "Mountain boots? No way! Bug spray? Forgetaboutit!" Seemed reasonable, but it didnt address the army of blood thirsty bugs we were sure to encounter. So I enlisted the help of Federal Way's local wizards to cast a spell of protection over Jens and I. My pack was lighter, but of course their stupid incantation didnt work, so I was thankful to use Jens bug juice to keep the hoardes at bay.

 

Like Nelson describes in his guide, this climb has mediocre (for the Stuart Range) rock, and is especially loose through the crux (we both thought this section was alittle easier than 5.8). But the position is awsome, and the climbing great!

 

Jens testing the rock midway up....

9498Picture_002-med.jpg

 

Stuart....

9498Picture_003-med.jpg

 

Almost there.....

9498Picture_004-med.jpg

 

On top, with balanced-rock in the background....

9498Picture_005-med.jpg

 

Jens psyching up for the free ascent....

9498Picture_006-med.jpg

 

Sherpa.....

9498Picture_007-med.jpg

 

Sherpa Balanced Rock looked improbable at best from the summit, free or otherwise... You enter the crux with protection below your feet, definate ground fall potential. But Jens cranked it, and I managed to worm my way up it, taking one fall. Yee-Haw! the_finger.gif

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Nice Jens! You're ripping it up this summer!

 

I'm still slow and weak but now that I am single, I'm starting to creep back into the kinda shape I was in 10 years ago.

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single? whoa - when did that happen? and lately in my dark hours w/ the wifey i was considering you a ray of hope! ha! shit...

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Scott passed my litmus test for new climbing partners which states that they must like either coffee or beer-at least one of the two. People that dislike both scare me.

 

Then how in the hell do you manage to climb with me?

 

Nice work guys; sounds like a great trip.

 

Your not the only one. I found it funny when he told me about the rule, followed by 10 sec of awkard silence until he said I was "okay though"

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