The 6 cascadian of the 50 classics of NA

[Jens]

Of the 6 cascade routes that are included in Steck & Roper's "50 classic climbs of north america" Which one would you vote as being the best?

My ranking:

Best- Liberty Ridge

2nd- Slesse NE Buttress

3rd- Stuart North Ridge

4th- Forbidden West Ridge

5th- Liberty Bell Liberty Crack

6th- Have only been on the lower flanks of the Price glacier so I am not qualified to vote on this one.

[Otto]

I finally got up the last one of these last month, Price. Some literary-type person said, "Comparisons are odious". I say, to compare them, you would want to separate the rock climbs from the glacier climbs. In my opinion, it's Stuart for rock and Liberty Ridge for ice. And Liberty Crack for aid - another category!

[DirtyHarry]

Lib Crack is hardly an aid route. It has like 5 moves of aid, even for a wanking pitiful free climber like myself.

[mattp]

When I climbed Liberty Crack, we certainly used more than a half dozen points of aid, but I agree that it is not so much of an aid climb as it is often perceived. I have not done it, but how does Thin Red Line stack up?

 

An interesting related question is: what if any might be better choices for the Cascades.

 

I think it is a pretty good list of some excellent climbs, though I might substitute Nooksak Tower Bertulis route for the Price Glacier (have not done the latter but have looked at it), and I think the upper half of the North Ridge on Stuart is the good part, so I'd say upper half only for that one or maybe Burgner Stanley on Prussik instead. Also, I think the Direct East Buttress on South Early Winter Spire is overall a better climb than Liberty Crack.

[DirtyHarry]

Its such a subjective thing, but here's some subjectivity - DEB on South is overrated. It has one good pitch, the 5.9 hand crack at the beginning. Then there's two sport bolted face pitches and some other stuff (can't be that great 'cause I've climbed it like 3 times and can't remember) to the top. East Face of Lexington is WAY better with 4 or 5 great pitches of sustained 5.9 crack climbing in great position and a squeeze chimney (with a 2x4 for pro) to boot!

[mattp]

I think the Direct East Buttress is spectacular for five pitches and there is not much that is distasteful getting to or down from it, but maybe that is just me. Anyway, I'll have to try the Lexington route.

[DirtyHarry]

I recomend it - best route at WA Pass.

[mattp]

Oh, and I generally agree with Jens' ordering at the start of the thread. The Price Glacier route may belong higher on the list, but I too have not climbed it. I think the "overrated" climb is Liberty Crack.

[chucK]

I think Rebel Yell on Chianti is in the same league with EF Lexington and SF Prussik. Though they are all relatively short, they have 4-5 really fun pitches. Lexington's got the other two beat in terms of short approach, but on a related note, loses out in the unobstructed view of the road category.

 

I remember Liberty Crack having some really fun moderate free climbing. Too bad you have to do all that icky aid to get to it.

[DirtyHarry]

I agee, Lib Crack is a great climb. Its not outstanding since the climbing sort of deteriorates toward the top, but its pretty damn fun and decently long. The first pitch is one of the best .11a's anywhere.

[Otto]

I can't climb 5.11 with a pack and a big rack, wish I could. If you do it as 5.9 A2, there are seven pitches requiring some aid.

[DirtyHarry]

You don't need a wall rack or a heavy pack for Lib Crack and even if you did why would the leader be carrying it and a heavy pack let alone a pack at all on the first pitch.

[Alpinfox]

 

yeah, make the second carry the shoes, water, and lunch. What else do you need?

[ivan]

keg o' ipa to celebrate on the summit mayhaps?

[DirtyHarry]

Rasta bivy kit, at least.

[eric8]

I terms of strictly classic alpine nature of the routes I have done west ridge of forbidden wins out. Has a glacier, moderately angled coulior, and a fun rock ridge. All the other routes are almost strickly snow and ice climbs or pure rock routes.

 

And I thought both liberty crack and north ridge of stuart where better than slesse. But niether one is as good as rebel yell...

[Alpinfox]

keg o' ipa to celebrate on the summit mayhaps?

 

Oh. I just had a lackey solo up the Beckey route with a bottle of Cabernet for summit celebration purposes.

 

[Madcap]

Interesting to read others' impressions. I guess my vote goes first to Liberty Ridge and then to Slesse for their overall appeal and "big route" feeling, rather than the quality of climbing alone. I like Stuart next for the excellent rock and fun climbing. For me it is more or less a toss-up between Price Glacier and Forbidden, both are very aesthetic. I suppose the nod goes to the Price just because of the mountain it happens to grace and its character as a "north face" route. While "last" on my list, I thought Liberty Crack was a fantastic route that deserves its place on a list of classics.

 

Can't argue with the quality of routes like Rebel Yell either, but I haven't found another route that, overall, would cause me to displace one of the current 6.