rock climbing oregon guidebook

[markd]

does anyone have any info on this guidebook. what areas it covers?

[corvallisclimb]

never seen that? where did you find that... sure its not a joke? who are the authors?

 

ps mark im headed out east today give me a call if your free at all this week

[shapp]

This TOC I got from the Library of Congress it is for the book pictured above "Rock Climbing Oregon" by Adam R. Bolf and Benjamin P. Ruef.

 

 

Contents

Acknowledgments

Introduction

How to Use This Book

EASTERN OREGON

1. Burnt River Canyon

French Gulch Slab

French Gulch Spire

The Heating Pad

Roadside Wall

2. Anthony Lake

Gunsight Dome North Buttress

Gunsight Dome Lower South Buttress

Gunsight Dome

Lower Parker Creek Wall

Upper Parker Creek Wall

Lees Peak

Angel Peak

3. High Valley

Entrance Rock

Parking Lot Rock

Main Wall

4. Spring Mountain

The Forested Entrance

South Talus Field

The Bush Section

North Talus Field

The Final Forest

MOUNT HOOD/COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

5. Bulo Point

South Gully

Second Gully

The Main Area

Northeast Section

6. Pete?s Pile

The Playground

Schoolroom Cracks

The Sandbox

7. French?s Dome

8. Salmon River Slab

NORTHWEST OREGON

9. Harlan Wall

10. Highway 11

Main Wall

Highway 11 Pillar

11. Lower Menagerie Wilderness

Rooster Rock

Hen Rock

Chicken Rock

12. Shark Fin Rock

13. Wolf Rock

The Amphitheater

The Great Arch?Southeast Wall

14. Santiam Pinnacle

Santiam Pinnacle

Weeping Wall

Triangle Rock

Gonzo Pinnacle

15. Iron Wall

CENTRAL OREGON

16. Green Ridge

17. Sisters Boulders

Front Gates

East Fortress

West Fortress

18. Smith Rock State Park

Morning Glory Wall

Churning Buttress

Main Area

The Peanut

The Dihedrals

Cinnamon Slab

Center Section

Left Side

Christian Brothers

Prophet Wall

Testament Slab Area

Combination Blocks

Spiderman Buttress

Monkey Face

West Side

East Side

Red Wall

Northern Point

West Side

East Side

19. The Steeple

20. The Badlands

The Badlands Rock

The Drive-In

The South Wall

21. Meadow Picnic Area

The West Side

The Back Side

22. La Pine Wall

23. Crack in the Ground

Green Valley

South End

The Second Crack

SOUTHWEST OREGON

24. Youtlkut Pillars

Appendix A: Glossary of Climbing Terms

Appendix B: Authors? Favorite Climbs

Appendix C: Secondary Data Sources

Routes by Rating

Index

About the Authors

Edited June 14, 2006 by shapp

[shapp]

P.S. anthor book in the Weeked Rock series (same series as D. Whitelaw's latest guide) is also coming out by Ron Horton, for which I supplied some info.

[markd]

shapp-

thanks for the info. where did you find that list from?

also, do you know anything about the authors, besides their names?

 

tyler-

it's listed on amazon.

i'll pm you about climbing.

[markd]

P.S. anthor book in the Weeked Rock series (same series as D. Whitelaw's latest guide) is also coming out by Ron Horton, for which I supplied some info.

 

i'm not familiar with this series. is it an oregon book as well. thanks.

[shapp]

Whitelaw's was Weekend Rock for washington routes

 

and Horton's will be for Oregon,

 

I believe done by the Mountaineers

 

I don't know the authors of the Oregon Rock from the photo above, never heard of them, there is something in their bio on Amazon about their extensive climbing since "1990", which is kind of funny.

 

I have never heard of Shark Fin Rock or Gonzo Pinnacle? I also can't wait to see how bad they F'ed up the Eastern Oregon stuff.

Edited June 13, 2006 by shapp

[powderhound]

does anyone knwo where this photo on the cover is from?

[markd]

i'm a little nervous about a few of the areas. some of them are fairly sensitive.

 

also, i wonder if any of them actually contributed or helped out significantly at any of these crags that have never been published before.

[shapp]

As far as the Eastern Oregon section I would say defenitely not, except for the Burnt River stuff, of which I am not sure.

[MATT_B]

23. Crack in the Ground

Green Valley

South End

The Second Crack

 

If this is the place I think it is, no climbing allowed there. A buddy of mine went there to climb and check it out and found no climbing signs. This was a couple of years ago. This could have changed or this could be another area but I don't think so. Anyone know anything more specific?

[shapp]

Might the actual Authors give up some info on this board?

[markd]

and Horton's will be for Oregon,

 

if i'm understanding you correctly - is this another guidebook for the state of oregon?

 

also, do you know what areas are in this, and it's release date? which areas did you give beta on?

 

thanks

[shapp]

Yes another book for select 5.10 and under climbs, in stores this fall from what I understand. I only provided beta for High Valley (surpised anyone would put this into a guide book). Surprisingly the Rock'n Road book had highvalley in at crags up to 60 and 80 feet tall, but it is more like 30 feet of mostly choss and rattle snakes although a couple small savory gems exist. I know a few areas were not included such as Spring Mountain (surprised the Author didn't want to put this in as it has the most routes concentrated in a small area in the general local), and Hells Canyon (yes this in in Idaho, but it is really more of an Oregon Crag, God just put it on the Wrong side of the river) because I believe of the local opposition to publishing info.

[Billy]

That is really too bad...as Markd says there are some land issues (private land, closed areas) at some of the places on Shapp's list. Who is Ron Horton? He obviously doesn't have the low down on which areas might be really affected by publishing them in a book.

[shapp]

The Book cover and table of contents above is not for Hortons book, the authors for the TOC above for "Rock Climbing Oregon" are Adam R. Bolf and Benjamin P. Ruef who I have never heard of.

[retired]

I was contacted a few years ago by Ben Ruef concerning the menagerie. I responded as I always did with anyone seeking Menagerie info and sent him my manuscript. He did mention there may be some sort of book project in the works but it was along time ago and I kind of forgot the whole thing. Looks like they completed the project. Should be intresting to see what they have done, since I worked so closely with Greg Orton doing maps, topos and numerous edits and there were still errors to the point that we had to do a 2nd edition. These lads with nothing except my orignal maunscript to guide them probably don't have a chance of doing a good job...but I don't know since I haven't seen the book and will more than likley not be buying one. so many guidebooks all of sudden. My info provided only covered the Menagerie which seems to be a very small part of this ambitious looking project. Jim

Edited June 14, 2006 by retired

[hemp22]

I agree - so many new guidebooks it's hard to keep track of them all. (I just saw the smith rock select book, and now these 2 Oregon books are due out this year also?)

What I found interesting from the TOC above is that this Rock Climbing Oregon falcon guide doesn't include any info on the crags that are so close to Portland (possibly because some of them are covered in detail in Olson's out-of-print book that can still be purchased locally), and yet it looks like it's going to try to cover a large part of Smith Rock, which now has multiple guidebooks available.

anyway, seems like a quick money-making scheme, without the necessary due diligence. I don't have high hopes for it being up-to-date or accurate.

[billcoe]

..... seems like a quick money-making scheme, without the necessary due diligence. I don't have high hopes for it being up-to-date or accurate.

 

The American Way at work:

 

But well see.

[wayne]

Kinda sad / Oregon has a history of fairly good guide books..

[billcoe]

Kinda sad / Oregon has a history of fairly good guide books..

 

Wayne, are you denying that it's your picture on the cover then!?

 

Actually, hard to say what the insides look like. Might be great. Could be real good route descriptions. Like they might have taken Jim A's manuscript and then done every route in it?

 

And then again..........

 

Later dude~!

[corvallisclimb]

wtf thats sad that two guys that seem to not have much experince wrote a book on oregon and included places they know nothing about.

[Doug_Hutchinson]

What's really sad is that Oregon rock means sport climbs at Smith to the vast majority of Oregon climbers. A new guide to get people to new areas doesn't sound like a bad thing. Don't worry, your previously secret, locals-only crag will probably only improve with a little more traffic. Pete's Pile is seeing a lot less traffic than it did in the late 90s.

 

Second, I've always thought it was weird that I keep referring to my dog-eared semi-ancient Dodge or Thomas guides for beta on Oregon climbs. Stein's Pillar say what?

 

Third, can anyone list a really active all-around state-wide climber who is qualified and capable of writing this guide? Wayne is in Washington, Yoder is in Washington although climbs everywhere, McGown's retired, Harlin is in Hood River but I don't think climbs much in Oregon, etc.

 

Lastly, I still hear lots of climbers bitch about Smoot's Washington Rock guide, but I still no know better info for many of the crags listed. It aint perfect, but no guide is.

 

I know nothing about the authors or the guide (maybe it sucks, no one that posted yet seems to know), but this guide book whore can't have enough info on newer areas.

[dan_forester]

I don't think it sounds like a bad thing either. It might be a good idea to wait until it's published before criticizing it...?

[corvallisclimb]

yeah im definatly excited to see the material and such. but i have my doubts about how it was done, i would really be amazed if they climbed all those routes on rooster, chicken and hen rock in jims menagerie guide. jim took me up some of his harder routes up there, and god damn am i impressed by those guys! having the santiam pinnacle and some of the rocks around there makes me wonder how much of this shit these guys actually climbed. i guess it would be nice to hear from the authors them selves or know a little more about them.