Baltoro Posted June 4, 2006 Posted June 4, 2006 I'm curious if the second pitch of Iron Horse will go on clean aid or not. I'm trying to find lots of clean aid options at the LTW and Iron Horse is a quick and eady setup for solo and without the same-old, same-old nutting of City Park. Variety is the spice of life and it looks like the second pitch of Iron Horse through the roof would be cool. Any alternatives would be great as well. Thanks for your time. Quote
soulreaper Posted June 4, 2006 Posted June 4, 2006 The "second" pitch through the slot/roof is actually the full free version and as such should ONLY be done clean. The slot leading to the roof is very protectable (C1/2) and I think the roof is at least protectable while free climbing, maybe C2? Someone else might have a better answer to that one. The pitch is pretty long, too, maybe even >35-40 metres... Quote
tyree Posted June 4, 2006 Posted June 4, 2006 Everything at the lower town wall should be climbed CLEAN!!! Quote
EWolfe Posted June 4, 2006 Posted June 4, 2006 Everything at the lower town wall should be climbed CLEAN!!! Â Probably ok to bang away in the quarry area, iddnit? Â Quote
colt45 Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 TPMV, Stern Farmer, Narrow Arrow are also good solo aid pitches. Quote
Mos_Chillin Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 Are those ok to pound? Ya gotta say what KIND of aid. Quote
Sol Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 Everything at the lower town wall should be climbed CLEAN!!! ty's right, even the routes not listed in Cramer's or Cummins respective index guides as clean aid, now go clean. i don't think iron horse goes through the roofs clean, but don't nail it, its a freeclimb. want more clean aid at the ltw: ten percent meterological vinculation p1 c2, narrow arrow direct p1 c2/c3 p2-4 c1, narrow arrow overhang p1 c2, stern farmer p1 c2 p2 c3f, shirley p1 c3. Quote
DCramer Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 Have these routes been climbed clean? Â Harder: Diagonal Start to Narrow Arrow Overhang Deal w/It Ranger variation Frog Pond P2 Artifice (full pitch) Skin Graph (Unknown 139) Â Easier: Snowblind Numbah 10 p2 Snow White p2 Stern Jr. Â Â Several new variations have been climbed that are definitely not clean. Quote
fenderfour Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 Not to start a war, but... Â If an old aid line is free'd then it is no longer allowed to be nailed, even if that is the only way to aid climb it? Quote
ScottP Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 What if it's an aid line that went free solely because of pin scars...? "Hey thanks for the pin scars that allow my fingers to fit in the crack. Oh, by the way, now that my fingers fit, you can't use pins on this route." Quote
RuMR Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 Yep...all future chipping should stop at the point its been freed at... Â why don't you roll on down to the valley with a rack of iron and start bashing up something like serenity (even though its already been whacked to hell and beyond) and see what happens! Quote
underworld Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 what if the first ascensionists want it to be a nailing route? if they establish the area, can they tell free climbers to piss-off?? Quote
RuMR Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 ahh...screw it, just bolt everything...that way aiders get to pull on metal and free climbers get to climb it for real...there, you happy? Quote
DCramer Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 (edited) I don't think anyone was suggesting nailing a clean route. Â I am pretty sure not one of the pitches I listed earlier have gone clean, but those feeling the need to nail a free route should go aid Bat Skins. The section between the last two bolts had a couple of fixed blades that were stolen. Aid the route and fix those blades again. It's a really fun route that sees little traffic. Edited June 7, 2006 by Peter_Puget Quote
MisterMo Posted June 7, 2006 Posted June 7, 2006 Yep...all future chipping should stop at the point its been freed at... why don't you roll on down to the valley with a rack of iron and start bashing up something like serenity (even though its already been whacked to hell and beyond) and see what happens!  So..OK...the Dihedral Wall was recently freed? was it not? Presuming that it was not previously done clean as an aid route (which I have no idea) will it/should it henceforth never again be nailed?  I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with you philosophically, but I am courious where the bounds are, if any exist, to the standard you advocate. Quote
RuMR Posted June 7, 2006 Posted June 7, 2006 personally, i don't think [that's an opinion] that dihedral wall should be nailed again... Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 7, 2006 Posted June 7, 2006 dcramer- Â i dont think skin graph goes clean, jake might have cam hooked it but i think he still nailed some pins. i know i nailed a few pins but i only did that first pitch. Quote
fenderfour Posted June 7, 2006 Posted June 7, 2006 YES! Â Cool enough, but I'm the guy with a hammer. You are the guy with a chalkbag. Quote
TimL Posted June 7, 2006 Posted June 7, 2006 I think Jamie M did Aretiface clean a couple of years ago. Quote
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