Emmons Route June 11-14

[nikki_on_top]

Hello, we are a party of 3 heading up the Emmons route starting Sunday June 11 (weather permitting, of course). Just wondering if anybody here is going as well.

 

Thanks!

 

Nikki

[ivan]

it's death to go up there!

[nikki_on_top]

Can you elaborate on the "death" part?

[kcclimber3]

What's the beta Ivan? I am planning on going up the same route about a month after Nikki...

[AlpineK]

Many try, few live.

[Rad]

nikki,

It's unclear from your message what you want - partners, beta, a date tired of missionary position? - If the weather is good and avalanche danger is low your climb should be a 30 degree snow hike on the largest glacier in the lower 48 states. You should be confident in crevasse rescue skills and be in excellent condition before attempting this route. Good luck.

 

Others: I'm not the dream police, but we don't poop on noobs, right?

[jordop]

Jesus, just make sure you've done Baker, St. Helens, AND Adams before going anywhere NEAR Rainier.

[ivan]

ha ha - if'n ya can't have fun at 1 a.m. then when the hell canya?

 

only descended the emmons meself - it seemed a very long and tiresome trail but i'm sure it'd be very exciting for anyone who's never been on a huge glacier before - if the weather's good you'll no doubt be sharing the route w/ 2000 of your closest friends - the best thing about the emmons route to my mind is the forest hike in w/ a headful of mind-altering/soul-shattering enhancers

[nikki_on_top]

Rad, sorry for the unclear message. I had meant to ask if anybody is planning on going on that route at that time and if so, I'd know who to say hi on the trail.

 

We were up at the Inter Glacier last weekend, just scoping out the route. Our plan is to take it nice and slow (4 days):

1st day - Go to Glacier Basin Camp

2nd day - Schurman

3rd day - Leave at around 11pm-midnight

4th day - Summit in the am, come back to Schurman, rest, then descend.

 

Ivan, I'm brand new here on this board, and since this type of communication tends to filter out most detectable sarcasm, wit, dry humor, I usually take comments at face value first, and ask for clarification.

 

About our team: we are mainly rock climbers (sport and trad) and experienced in backcountry hiking and have the gear required. We learned how to do crevasse rescue recently. We are also in great shape, myself doing quite a bit of biking/running, and climbing regularly.

 

As far as glacier travelling experience, we have little, but have been told the the Emmons route at this time of year is the "safest" because the crevasses have yet to open much. (I know, "safe" is a relative word).

 

Nikki

[magellan]

Welcome to CC.com Nikki. Watch for stray dogs, both here and on the Emmons.

[pete_a]

if you are going to take four days to do your climb, your schedule may be better if you skip the glacier basin camp and get a permit to camp on the inter glacier for your first night's camp. Hiking from the trailhead to glacier basin makes for a really short, easy day and your time may be better spent knocking off a little more distance and vertical by camping somewhere on the inter glacier and have the benefit of more acclimitization from the extra 2000ft or so of extra altitude.

anyways, just a suggestion.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

if you are going to take four days to do your climb, your schedule may be better if you skip the glacier basin camp and get a permit to camp on the inter glacier for your first night's camp. Hiking from the trailhead to glacier basin makes for a really short, easy day and your time may be better spent knocking off a little more distance and vertical by camping somewhere on the inter glacier and have the benefit of more acclimitization from the extra 2000ft or so of extra altitude.

anyways, just a suggestion.

 

agreed. It's only worth just going as far as glacier basin on day 1 if you hit the trail late in the afternoon (like 6 or 7 pm), and you want to knock out that 3+ miles right away after registering at the ranger station.

[OlegV]

...the best thing about the emmons route to my mind is the forest hike in w/ a headful of mind-altering/soul-shattering enhancers

[goatboy]

I would suggest going all the way to Schurman the first day, then spending a FULL DAY there (day 2) before heading out that night late to summit in the AM on day 3. This maximizes the acclimitazing at 10,000 ft and still gives you a rest day up high. That's what I'd do if I were doing this route.

[Nick]

The Emmons route is fun. Rope up on the interglacier, people fall in crevasses there most every year. If you do camp on the interglacier bring along an avalanche probe (or a 7 foot long pointy stick) to check for possible crevasses under your camp site. Taking an extra day to camp and drink lots of water up by Camp Shurman is a good idea; the rest and hydration makes summit day more fun.

[octavius]

I would suggest going all the way to Schurman the first day, then spending a FULL DAY there (day 2) before heading out that night late to summit in the AM on day 3. This maximizes the acclimitazing at 10,000 ft and still gives you a rest day up high. That's what I'd do if I were doing this route.

I agree with this. We did this last year, first day all the way to Schurman, then did a FULL day of rest there (24+hours). Less time setting up and breaking down camp, and you get more time at a higher altitude to acclimate. Have fun.