G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 When you cheat at climbing, you cheat no one but yourself, but you still cheated. If there is only one bolt on a 50 meter long route, placed 2m below the anchor, and you pre-clip it, did you still lead the route? No, you top roped it. Same thing if the bolt is only 2m off the ground. Preclipping is toproping. And claiming a lead for a route you toprope in whole or part, is cheating. Hence we call a cheater stick a cheater stick whether it is used for aid climbing or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 When you climb, no matter how you do it, you enjoy yourself. And you still climbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 When you cheat at climbing, you cheat no one but yourself, but you still cheated. If there is only one bolt on a 50 meter long route, placed 2m below the anchor, and you pre-clip it, did you still lead the route? No, you top roped it. Same thing if the bolt is only 2m off the ground. Preclipping is toproping. And claiming a lead for a route you toprope in whole or part, is cheating. Hence we call a cheater stick a cheater stick whether it is used for aid climbing or not. so do you clip all your gear and/or bolts below your feet?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Just below my waist.... I can point out several 25 to 30 foot high boulders at Squamish that have had top anchors chopped within days of TR bolts appearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 When you cheat at climbing, you cheat no one but yourself, but you still cheated. If there is only one bolt on a 50 meter long route, placed 2m below the anchor, and you pre-clip it, did you still lead the route? No, you top roped it. Same thing if the bolt is only 2m off the ground. Preclipping is toproping. And claiming a lead for a route you toprope in whole or part, is cheating. Hence we call a cheater stick a cheater stick whether it is used for aid climbing or not. Shit, no one's really gotten Realization or Action Direct yet without cheating! Dru, get on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Pinkpointing is still cheating. Accepted, yes, cheating, yes also. Jason Kehl did properly climb The Fly after cheating his way up it first. And so far he's the only one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 what those guys did on the fly (whether tr, preclipped, solo, whatever) is climbing... what you and every other hacker on this site does is not climbing in comparison... You dumbfux wouldn't get off the ground on that thing with AID, STEPPING STOOLS, LADDERS, BUNGEE CORDS, ETC. ETC. ETC. wanks...all of us...later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Hey Rudy, why do you get less points on 8a.nu for "freepointing" (preclipped bolts) if it's equally difficult then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 i don't know...who said equally difficult? They should add a category for climbing with such a fat ass as i'm toting around...that should be worth extra points for sure...and they should put a multiplier of 4 on the point value if your name is Dru cuz yersosuck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Let's not forget that when Boone Speed climbed Ice Cream with the first 4 bolts preclipped, he didn't claim a redpoint, only a yo-yo. It was Steven Jeffrey (I think?) who got the first redpoint and so technically the first free ascent. Ditto when Klem Loskot put up Vakuumgeist (9a) with the first 5 bolts of a 6-bolt route preclipped, he was criticized so heavily for it that he later removed those bolts, relocated them to better clipping stances, and reled the route clipping all the bolts (and renamed it Vakuumgeist 2000). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 but saying you cheated like you did, is complete bullshit...they climbed it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 In the two cases I mention, the first example in each case involved cheating, the climbers admitted it, and the ascents were properly made later using correct style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Correct style. doesn't exist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Better is correcter. Cheating is wrongest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 you are a fuckin' moron dru... none of those guys claimed a redpoint...sheesh..."he cheated he cheated he cheated"...you sound like a little school yard wank... All of them would tell you exactly how they climbed it...sure, a few of them went back and upped the ante, but let's face it...you look like a fat little punk callin' bs on sumpin you will NEVER be able to replicate yourself in ANY style at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Style is irrespective of difficulty. I refuse to get down on my knees like you are just because what they cheated on was hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 I see the fishing has been good, Dru. Nice load! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 SSSSHHHHH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 26, 2006 Author Share Posted May 26, 2006 wow this thread changed courses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Nice load! izzat what you tell Dru after he gives it to ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Nice load! izzat what you tell him after he gives it to ya? Go throw yourself at a wide crack besides your wife, Little Man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 i will take that as a score on my side, fatty! so when you gonna get down ta smiff to do some cheatin'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 I don't need bolts to cheat! The #2 cam fits into the cheater stick just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 I love how these threads always degenerate to "Dru vs. the World" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 *sigh* You make it sound so ronrey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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