dbb Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Climb: Abiel Peak-It's All-Der Date of Climb: 3/25/2006 Trip Report: After changing plans at the last minute, Keith, Pax and I decided to check out Abiel Peak on Saturday. The approach trail is popular with day hikers, and was packed down so well that we didn't need our snowshoes at all. Having hiked up in here this past fall with Keith, we sagely knew not to follow the picknic-table-nature-trail loop trail out of the parking lot. If you're coming in on skis, I would just go up the valley which is to the right once you reach the railroad grade (as Ade mentioned in his TR). As it has been mentioned, there are a ton of lines up there. The rock is like the sourrounding peaks: compact and fairly crackless. mixed lines could be bold. (big topo in the gallery) Fun climbing with two pitches of AI3 and one of AI4 on the right side of the face. We easily walked off right and down a wide gully to the west. more pics/details on my website Gear Notes: 4 screws, short and medium length lots of slings #1 camalot Approach Notes: Exit 47 off I-90. Take the Annette lake trail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Wicked alder twigs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 nice work guys....its all der alright. that pax-gnome on your website is scary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Abiel: CC.com flava of da month! Nice work guys! Your line is quite a bit more veggie than ours, but it looks like some quality climbing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Why does this line get an AI grade when the others get WI grades? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I think he's right, it's more alpine ice really. Well done gents! -M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Flavor of the month indeed! We had scoped out this line from the lake, glad to see it got climbed. Nice job dudes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I think he's right, it's more alpine ice really. ours was definately water ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 the best thing about all this micro choss alpine is that you guys think it has been recently discovered. hah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 that really is the best thing, but only for cool folks like yourself who are in the know. california does that to a person. btw way, i'm sitting here in front a computer right now getting old and fat...what are you doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 i am hardly cool.....waiting for my ski partner to show.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Awesome. Yet another route on the exact same face. My question is when the need to put up a "FA" will degrade into a route which involves nothing more than hiking up through some trees while carrying an ice tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 My thoughts exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 how was the snow back there start any lil slabs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 It was safe last weekend. A very weak crust on top with about 12-18" of isothermic, postholin' type snow underneath that. It wasn't gonna slide, but it was a bit of work. Thankfully the distance between the lake and the base of the climbs (the only part that isn't packed down) isn't very long. Dave and Keith conveniently "forgot to bring gaiters" so I got to do all the trailbreaking. On the descent I even intentionally jumped around on a ~45degree convex slope (I'm stupid sometimes) and nothing slid. Words of advice to those repeating the route: You'll be tying off a lot of alder as pro so bring lots of slings. 5-6 screws, mostly shorties, will be sufficient. A couple of pins and small cams might be helpful, especially if the route is any thinner than when we did it. Don't carry your packs up the route, it makes getting though a couple alder sections pretty annoying and it's only 2.5 pitches with an easy walkoff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Awesome. Yet another route on the exact same face. My question is when the need to put up a "FA" will degrade into a route which involves nothing more than hiking up through some trees while carrying an ice tool. you should ask klenke that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 ... a route which involves nothing more than hiking up through some trees while carrying an ice tool. I just reread this shit. Josh, I invite you to go repeat this route this winter. It's just like "hiking with an ice tool". Be sure to report back here how your hike goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Even though you took him a little out of context, his intent was to insult. I hadn't spotted the comment before now either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Oh yeah but what if it gets skied. That would be a TOTAL BURN! I bet I could totally ski that with only a couple raps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 psssffttt! I could tele that thing with a set of 1868 Norway sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Hey Josh, Did you get a chance to "walk up this route with an ice tool in your hand" this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 don't think josh's posting up 'round here too much nomore - hoping to see him this weekend though so i'll pass on the query Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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