Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Tom253

Simple April Alpine Climbs?

Recommended Posts

I have very basic mountaineering experience and would like to get my feet wet on a non-technical alpine climb this month. Been looking around at tons of route descriptions but can't seem to find any that are appropriate for my level of experience.

 

Any climb ideas in western WA that would allow me to get my feet wet without getting in over my head would be appreciated.

 

Looking for anything that doesn't require rock pro or crossing terrain higher than class 2 or 3.

 

Thanks

Edited by Tom253

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Klenke is famous on this site for ascents exactly like what you're looking for. Checking out his trip reports might help...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's so many that this is hard to answer. For easier non-technical scrambles that could still be called a climb I would recommend:

Snoqualmie Mt - south side

Red Mt (mostly snow now)

Mt Baring (mostly snow)

Mt Pilchuck

Hidden Lake Pk (wait for access road to open)

Search nwhikers and

wta

and you may find some reports on these.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks ideas guys. After reading Klenke's TR on Bedal Peak, I think I'll do a bit more route research and knock that one out of the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

check out the tatoosh range. specific names elude me now but I remember a very cool little snow climb. best in spring.

 

sauk mountain in spring would be good too. snow climb.

 

while it is a "hike", mt dickerman on mtn loop highway is very good this time of year. has a summer trail under the snowpack.

 

mt vesper has a mellow side (south side?) which is approached via another buried summer trail.

 

there are climbs for you but my brain is dome for the night.

 

gene

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

check out the tatoosh range. specific names elude me now but I remember a very cool little snow climb. best in spring.

Two of the peaks are Pinnacle and Castle. I've done each of them in April and in the right conditions they could be what you're looking for. This year in particular the snow could require skis or snowshoes in much of April. I used skis. Also, be aware of avy danger on the south facing slopes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whan that Aprille with his schoures swote.

The drought of Marche hath perced to þe rote.

And bathed euery veyne in suche licoure.

Of whiche vertue engendrid ys the floure.

And Zephirus eke with his swete breth.

Enspired hath in euerie holt and heth.

The tendre croppes and the yong sonne.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
check out the tatoosh range. specific names elude me now but I remember a very cool little snow climb. best in spring.

Two of the peaks are Pinnacle and Castle. I've done each of them in April and in the right conditions they could be what you're looking for. This year in particular the snow could require skis or snowshoes in much of April. I used skis. Also, be aware of avy danger on the south facing slopes.

 

Actually... be very aware of that bowl on the northeast side of Castle on the way up.

 

Unicorn (in the Tatoosh) is another very good one, but the summit block is probably a bit more than you'd be comfortable with if you're looking for Class 2/3, no pro required. Perfect time to do it is right after they open the Stevens Canyon Rd and you can park at the Snow/Bench Lake trailhead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in the same boat as Tom, but probably have even less experience. I'm looking for routes in the north cascades that I can learn on and gain experience this spring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm in the same boat as Tom, but probably have even less experience. I'm looking for routes in the north cascades that I can learn on and gain experience this spring.

 

These would all be good climbs for someone who knows how to lead on gear, but hasn't done it much, hasn't climbed much in the alpine, isn't into big commitment, or doesn't want steep snow or rock harder than 5.6...

 

Rock: Beckey route on Lib. Bell

 

South Arete of S. Early Winter Spire

 

W. Ridge of North Twin

 

R&D route - Icicle Buttress in Leavenworth

 

Snow: SW Couloir of S. Early Winter Spire

Mt. Ruth

 

Snow and Rock sections: Sahale via Sahale Glacier

 

get a copy of the red and green editions of the Cascade Alpine Guide and browse through to find more stuff that fits your current skills.

 

read this: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/504056/an/0/page/21#504056

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom - Granite mountain sounds like what you're looking for. Head up via the ridge and there's some scrambling over rocks, nothing higher than class 2-3.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blake's recomendations are non-non-technical. For you much of the other advise is better. Put those on next year's list. Have fun.

Edited by still_climbin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I'd agree that Blake's recommendations are one step up from the others.

 

Another good one not listed here is Rock Mountain, above Highway 2. However, it has a large cornice above the bowl facing east, and you may want to steer clear of it. It has fantastic views and a relatively straight forward approach - though plenty of altitude gain - and I've gotten ticks there at this time of year (for some reason they seem less abundant this year than most and they are not really that big of a deal anyway).

 

If you live down toward Olympia or out on the Kitsap Penninsula, Mount Ellinor can be a good spring outing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whan that Aprille with his schoures swote.

The drought of Marche hath perced to þe rote.

And bathed euery veyne in suche licoure.

Of whiche vertue engendrid ys the floure.

And Zephirus eke with his swete breth.

Enspired hath in euerie holt and heth.

The tendre croppes and the yong sonne.

 

beowulf of course, which translates into "quit being a vag"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whan that Aprille with his schoures swote.

The drought of Marche hath perced to þe rote.

And bathed euery veyne in suche licoure.

Of whiche vertue engendrid ys the floure.

And Zephirus eke with his swete breth.

Enspired hath in euerie holt and heth.

The tendre croppes and the yong sonne.

 

beowulf of course, which translates into "quit being a vag"

 

You're kidding, yah? Is Chaucer. Though you're right that all of Beowulf basically translates into "quit being a vag."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in the same boat as you Tom. I'm a newbie with limited climbing experience, but I've done lots of summertime summit scrambles, mostly within Mt. Rainier NP. I recently checked out a book from the library called 75 scrambles in Washington (published by the Mountaineers I believe). Most of them are class 2 with some occasional class 3 moves. I don't have it with me right now, but I believe it listed Mt. Ellinor (Hood Canal area of the Olympics) and Mt. Wow (southwest corner of Mt. Rainier NP) as being good spring scrambles. Hope this helps and good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×