Alpinfox Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 ...Mr. Fox. I approve of this new appellation. You may continue to address me as such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 There you go... Now do this to it... THAT STUPID COAT RACK WOULDN'T HOLD A FACTOR .001 FALL!!! YOU WILL DIE!!! Are those ordinary figure eight knots? Why do you need separate locking bines on the power point? Come on, even a sport climber can see if you clipped one biner into the two power points, it would be triaxially loaded, causing you to DIE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 You're worried about equalization and you don't have ONE fucking coat? Get a grip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 You're worried about equalization and you don't have ONE fucking coat? Get a grip! Sweet rack, though. Suh-weeeeeeet-ahhhhhh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 You're worried about equalization and you don't have ONE fucking coat? Get a grip! Coat? You must mean GOAT. Do you have a fucking-goat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 You're worried about equalization and you don't have ONE fucking coat? Get a grip! Coat? You must mean GOAT. Do you have a fucking-goat? Aiii! La cabra de chingando! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Always build that anchor when you climb. Always! It will save your life!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 dude phat handjams are just as good an an anchor brah bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 As complex as it appears, should think one could set up quickly with practice. If all you had was a thin crack and 4 RPs, maybe it wouldn't be such a bad thing, especially if it were vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 ever heard of "the anchor sucks so don't fall brah?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 As complex as it appears, should think one could set up quickly with practice. If all you had was a thin crack and 4 RPs, maybe it wouldn't be such a bad thing, especially if it were vertical. But vertical, you couldn't hang all four coats up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 As complex as it appears, should think one could set up quickly with practice. If all you had was a thin crack and 4 RPs, maybe it wouldn't be such a bad thing, especially if it were vertical. But vertical, you couldn't hang all four coats up. Come on, have some imagination! The coats would just be all overlapping like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I built that anchor and it took me 10 minutes to get it right in the comfort of my own living room. I'm sure I could get it down to 5 minutes, but lordy, it's a PITA. So the reason for the two biners is apparently to guard against the total failure of one side of the anchor, in which case a single biner on both strands would slide off. But why not just clip both strands using one biner and put a twist in one of the strands, same as for a sliding x? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 blahblahblahblahblah....But why not just clip both strands using one biner and put a twist in one of the strands, same as for a sliding x? Because everyone knows the best belay anchor is the one having the most fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Have you attempted to PRE-HEAT the belay anchor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I want some of whatever it is you are on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted March 24, 2006 Author Share Posted March 24, 2006 I built that anchor and it took me 10 minutes to get it right in the comfort of my own living room. I'm sure I could get it down to 5 minutes, but lordy, it's a PITA. So the reason for the two biners is apparently to guard against the total failure of one side of the anchor, in which case a single biner on both strands would slide off. But why not just clip both strands using one biner and put a twist in one of the strands, same as for a sliding x? That's what I was wondering. Can't see any reason not to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I'll bet you get your time down by 1 minute or so if you practice the one-handed clove hitch enough so that you can do it with both hands simultaneously. Seriously though, 10 minutes when you're setting it up on a coat rack. Add the time required to fiddle in 4 rp's and you've got a 15 minute belay setup. Not to mention you probably need a freakin' 30' cordelette to set that mess up + EIGHT 'biners I guess if you're toproping the vice-president or your mother-in-law, it might be worth it, but shee-it. That's all I've got to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I'm still going with clip-clip-"dirt me!" as the most efficient anchor setup. All this futzing about with cordage and snap-links and directional-non-sliding-self-equivocationalizing-doubled-back-clove-hitch-triple-backup-anti-ICBM-nuke-u-larwintersurvivalbunkeranchorsystems seems like time wasted when you could be downing a Clif Bar and dialing your sequence for the crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I think of the above as an interesting intellectual exercise. It's what happens when you try to be perfect, that is take an idea to it's ultimate conclusion. You start forgetting about other important things like timeliness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I'd agree with most of what you wrote in the first sentence, but not with the "interesting" part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I'd agree with most of what you wrote in the first sentence, but not with the "interesting" part. That is subjective thing, now, isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 OK, I actually read the first 5 or so pages of that thread at RC.com. I believe I can answer your question of why two biners and no sliding X. It's because they say the X has a tendency to seize up under tension, thus compromising the equalization. I sorta like this setup. Looks easy and does basically the same thing. Though I'm not sure what's going on with the biner on that three-point one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 As complex as it appears, should think one could set up quickly with practice. If all you had was a thin crack and 4 RPs, maybe it wouldn't be such a bad thing, especially if it were vertical. But vertical, you couldn't hang all four coats up. Come on, have some imagination! The coats would just be all overlapping like. Have some common sense, do you see how small those hooks are? Maybe you have tiny, mincy cute jackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 How do you tie a wanklette? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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