conditions on northface of hood

[fhclimber]

Thinking about doing the the north face of hood this coming weekend. Supposed to have high pressure after Monday and good weather. Anybody have an idea of the condition of the route and access via road?

[ivan]

snowy

[griz]

yeah, anyone with recent info on that rte would not be someone with enough good judgement to be worth listening to anyway... judging by the 87ft of snow you guys have had in recent weeks...

[fhclimber]

I was hoping that the route might be coming in condition after a couple days of warmer weather and cold nights of the coming week. Sounds like it might be wishfull thinking.

[layton]

no actually it is probably gonna be good in a few days (albiet snowier than iceier)

[fhclimber]

Now there's the optimism I am seeking. Any other useful beta for the climb?

[John Frieh]

What other beta are you looking for?

[Couloir]

Thinking about doing the the north face of hood this coming weekend. Supposed to have high pressure after Monday and good weather. Anybody have an idea of the condition of the route and access via road?

Just go. Study the hell out of the weather data right before hand. Get up there and study the route as you climb. Get to the shrund and make your decision. Left gully...right gully. Knock it out and post an epic TR. Don't forget pictures.

[Couloir]

Oops. It's Sunday night. Wonder if he went. This week, as long as it cools down enough at night, looks tasty. I may be up for "the loop" on Wednesday.

[Cobra_Commander]

does anyone actually climb this anymore or do they just talk about conditions all the time

 

for what it's worth it's fun when icier, and now it is snowy, so it's a ski run w/a bergschrund problem. slog it out

[fhclimber]

I didn't go yet looking for next weekend. Never been up there so was mainly wondering about what people thought about formation of ice on the route over the next week of warmer days and hopefully cool nights. If it is snowier what kind of pro would one use or is it just a slog and not even worth it?

[ivan]

if you've never been on that side of the mtn it's def worth your time - the route is just at it's coolest when in fall conditions that didn't really appear this year. take some screws, some short picketts. or take nothing! it oughta be a mostly snowy, tight coulior after getting over the 'schrund, which could be anything these days. climb it soon, then make a point of sacrificing a fair virgin next october in hopes of getting the jiz-tacular conditions that make the n face the sweet route it can be...

[kadyakerbob]

the route will definetely be in i am heading up there my self. who ever made the does anybody climb the n.face or just talk about it, i have climbed it 3times this year! so yeah people are climbing it. The snow has been able to consolidate the last few days and there will be no more snow all week so that consolidation will keep happening. Plus the routes steep enough you dont have to worry about avi's too much not that it will be a problem by next weekend.

[John Frieh]

inversion might/will slow the rate of consolidation be safe up there!

[DPS]

Kadyakerbob:

 

Is the Cloudcap road snowed in and gated? If so, what is an alterante approach?

[jaee]

a. slog up the Tilly Jane trail from Cooper Spur ski area

b. hoof it over from Timberline