jesse Posted August 9, 2002 Posted August 9, 2002 Word, Any VERY recent beta on the condition of this classique? Pocket glacier? Snowpatches left on route? Crossover descent? Buttress toe? Gracias, Jesse Quote
Dru Posted December 22, 2004 Posted December 22, 2004 There is some snow on the route right now Quote
curtveld Posted June 24, 2006 Posted June 24, 2006 Anybody been up the Nesakwatch road this spring? Did the washouts get patched up or get worse or...? Quote
BackCountryPunk Posted June 26, 2006 Posted June 26, 2006 Was up there this weekend. The washouts are fine, I drove my van through them no probs. Might be a bit hard on a car though. The bypass glacier was VERY active while we were in the area (North Rib, tr coming soon). Chunks coming off quite regularily all day & night. Should be gone in a week or two! If you are going back down via Slesse Creek side, melt as much snow as you can when you are above the tree line, cuz theres no water until down about 500m. We were very parched by the time we hit it. Quote
G-spotter Posted July 4, 2006 Posted July 4, 2006 latest Slesse NE conditions beta: Snow around Prop Cairn, Bypass Glacier still mostly there. East Face Glacier sending chunks down to Prop Cairn area. However both Bypass and East Face Gl. are mostly stable right now, only one big chunk of each came off in the 2 days we were watching them. Still snow on the summit and bivy ledge. Quote
DougBrownVancouver Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) New (2006) Sleese Trail Beta, do not take the right hand spur just before the gate as per Alpine Select unless you want to wade across the creek and bushwack on the old road for 15-30minutes before hitting the buff trail. For the new trail, walk 5-10 minutes past the somewhat defunked gate (~elev 642m) on the logging road for Rexford, at elevation 723m look for a well flagged trail on your right dropping down through older forest towards the main river. It crosses the river on a massive log after traveling south beside the river for 1-2 minutes. After crossing the trail continues south on the west side of the river for 1-2 minutes then climbs on the west side of the valley to join the old logging road as per Alpine Select. The rest of the Alpine Select Beta worked well to the propeller cairn. Edited July 26, 2006 by DougBrownVancouver Quote
DougBrownVancouver Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 July 22, 2006. Glaciers were very actively calving and three large ice avalanches were noted during the pre-dawn and dawn approach (a section of the toe of the Bi-Pass and two smaller glaciers to the south let go). Traveling on the bi-pass (well back from the active edge) was good in approach shoes with ice axes and aluminum crampons until we were within 200m of the route. At this point multiple hidden seracs were encountered. A path to the base of the route looked possible without any particularly technical climbing, however it would involve traveling below vertical sections of seracs and blocks with considerable hazard (we choose to retreat). The route will likely be in similar shape until the blocks and seracs crumble back, cooler weather allows night-time freezing or the whole thing blasts off for the valley. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 9, 2006 Posted August 9, 2006 Bumpity any more info on pocket glacier??? Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 Somebody must know something from last weekend. Isn't this climb super popular? Quote
Winter Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 quit worryin about the pocket glacier and just go get it! Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 Doug's reply above makes it sound like the glacier crossing itself is basically a no go right now too. Quote
G-spotter Posted August 12, 2006 Posted August 12, 2006 OMG U R GOING TO DIE !!!!!! SLESSE IS SCARY Quote
tlinn Posted August 14, 2006 Posted August 14, 2006 The glacier is still there but it is very passable on the right side without crampons or an ice axe. This however, involves passing under the line of fire and a big piece calved off and avalanched while we watched a few hundred meters away. We decided to call it a day and came back down. Others may feel more comfortable but on this particular day we took it as a sign and ran away. Quote
MCash Posted August 14, 2006 Posted August 14, 2006 To the person who wrote "Idiot" on my window at the Slesse trailhead this weekend: You're just jealous that your 4 wheel drive SUV with offroad tires couldn't get any farther up that road that my lowly Civic with stock tires. Quote
bigeo Posted August 30, 2006 Posted August 30, 2006 Planning on doing this sept 9/10. Any recent beta on conditions, road access (bridge out?). Also, anyone heading that way interested in arranging a shuttle from the Slesse mt trailhead to wherever you park closest to the NE Butt access. Or, anyone know any detail ($) on being choppered in and maybe interested in sharing a ride with 2 of us? Quote
G-spotter Posted August 30, 2006 Posted August 30, 2006 Or, anyone know any detail ($) on being choppered in and maybe interested in sharing a ride with 2 of us? Time saved by chopper flight to Slesse - one hour. But being known as a small-testicled nancyboy with more money than brains will last your whole life. Maybe you should wait till they pave the wheelchair trail and put in handicapped parking? Quote
bigeo Posted August 30, 2006 Posted August 30, 2006 wow, I finally register on cascadewankers and ask a question and I get slammed. But hey, I got a response, with useful info at that. I don't know why Nelson pushes the heli thing, unless he gets a kickback or maybe he's a STNB. Now, about that bridge, or do real men swim across? Quote
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