1st, 2nd or..ascent.

[Peter_Puget]

How does someone tell if a traverse like the North Picketts traverse are in fact FA’s? It seems that over the last few decades there have been lots of climbers with significant skills passing through the NW. The real impediment isn’t difficulty but rather finding good weather.

 

I know for a fact that some traveling climbers

have put several difficult (5.11+) routes up in the Enchantments over several summers and never reported them.

 

In another thread PMS asked if I knew of any ascents of Supercrack. I know its been climbed a few times but with a hang or two. The odd thing is I know of very few people who have ever wanted to go hike over to even attempt it because it is a pain to get too. Lots of strong rock climbers have passed through the state who would definitely be able to flash SC and not consider it a big deal.

[mattp]

A climber who posts here somewhat regularly once told me that sometimes the best method may be to put up a "straw man" and wait for someone to knock it down. If you want to know whether someone may have climbed Supercrack you may not get an answer if you simply ask the question, but you'll likely get a correction if you report a first ascent. Someone who did it 20 years ago when it was stylish not to report all of our ascents may have a hard time resisting offering the correction.

[olyclimber]

Or they may just be satisfied with having climbed it, and not care for recognition. There was a period of climbing where NOT reporting was in vogue (in the 70s?).

[Peter_Puget]

Matt -

I am sure Supercrack's been climbed more than once. As far as the straw man idea it might not work. For example there are at least a dozen people at the VW who could climb it that never post here and never check out cc.com.

Edited September 8, 2005 by Peter_Puget

[mattp]

Yes, cc.com is not the "journal of record" for climbing and many - including your mythical top notch climbers who have passed through the State - do not read it. But if someone reports something that sounds significant people who do read it will think to themselves "didn't I hear that my buddy Peter Puget was exploring up there some years back?" I think you'll get broader circulation that way than the bare inquiry.

[Peter_Puget]

"mythical" So you think that lots of very good climbers dont pass thru the state every year?

[catbirdseat]

A lot of very good climbers pass water in this state.

[Off_White]

Rest Areas don't count, they're only good for hiding the contraband before international border crossings

[bwrts]

Matt -

there are at least a dozen people at the VW who could climb it that never post here and never check out cc.com.

Really now. I have heard this climb requires some unique body tension and technique. not doubting you completely but do these climbers actually climb OW?

 

I also know yoder did it a couple times (saw him climb it once from a distance, so perhaps he tugged gear, I don't know, nor really give a flying pig ). <-- last part is for RumR

 

But to answer your question, the world may never know... as many people (I think) don't care as they climb only for themselves...not recognition in any book or climbing journal.

[EWolfe]

Rest Areas don't count, they're only good for hiding the contraband before international border crossings

 

There was this tunnel no one would ever find....

[pms]

"PMS asked if I knew of any ascents of Supercrack. I know its been climbed a few times but with a hang or two. The odd thing is I know of very few people who have ever wanted to go hike over to even attempt it because it is a pain to get too."

 

Seems like an odd reason. The hike isn't any farther that upper town wall is it? Shortage of bolts is another theory.

[lancegranite]

I put pennies on climbs and boulder porblems that I have FA'd.

Use new pennies so the date will reflect the year the route was climbed.

[knotzen]

But what if somebody knocks them off when they climb the route?

[EWolfe]

Booty!

 

 

[lancegranite]

You climb a hundred of my routes and you will be able to buy a soda pop.

Place them in the crux for maximum effect.

I usually put them in pockets or wedged them tightly.

A few friends have found them and reported back to me.

[wayne]

How does someone tell if a traverse like the North Picketts traverse are in fact FA’s?

 

Interesting you should single out that climb. Until you do a route like that you have no idea the vast effort it took. It is a micro expedition that should take many attempts and days of planning,not to mention skill. To say some one can just breeze in here and tag that chain belittles the efforts and triumphs we have all face putting the time into these first ascents!

I am sure you didnt mean to encite this rant, but go see the show at Feathered Friends and lets talk then. My apologies for being Mr. Sensitive here , Wayne

[bwrts]

I usually put them in pockets or wedged them tightly.

A few friends have found them and reported back to me.

huh, so that is where the penny came from...

I wish there would have been one on IC, cuz ole scotty would have had one winging down on him from great heights!

 

Wayne- not agreeing or disagreeing about picket traverse and the FA but PP has a point and I do remember hearing about some team back around '99 going for a bigger enchainment then just the northern pickets. They apparently had gear stashes to incorperate traversing the pickets down through the Ptarmigan, maybe further. I can't recall if they were successful or not. My friend in Bham (who i am fairly sure does not visit this site) may know the answer and I will try to ask sometime. (perhaps Dylan Taylor can too, as I know he climbed with my statistics prof, Josh back then).

Either way, in noway am I belittling the great effort and nice line you and company followed. Too bad that area was not granite!!!!!

[wayne]

Enchainment of course , is totally different from a summit ridge traverse.

[bwrts]

true, but as I said, I know no details other than I heard some climbers had big plans and gear stashes along the way.

[Jens]

Good points. Lots of strong climbers never check this site or report repeats.

__

As for supercrack, I Tr'd the thing with hangs when I was aout 20 pounds lighter. As for lots of people around here being able to climb it, If you don't have HUGE hands, you have to climb the final arching section by leading with your feet.

[JoshK]

I've heard of that long enchainment with gear caches that you mention...I just completely forget the details. But it was a loooong trip from way up north going throught the ptarmigan traverse and past, if i remember correct. But Wayne is right, that is a whole different beast that climbing along a summit ridge.

[Crackbolter]

Look at the bright side;

 

You were the first guys to climb the entire Picket Ridges and rate it for others to repeat. Pretty cool that I can do it and know it goes now...if I can climb at your abilities.

 

The Stuart range is easier to know if someone has climbed your line or not. Conveniently grubbed placements and pin scars are easy to identify from angles and above. Not always the case but often enough. Seems like gneiss is harder to tell if others have passed.

 

Any thoughts on this?

[cj001f]

How does someone tell if a traverse like the North Picketts traverse are in fact FA’s?

Some other party proves they did it first. The same way all other first ascents are proven. There are a number of other peaks were an earlier ascent was probable, either by the whiteman or the Indian, and the first known ascending party gets the credit.