phillygoat Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 OK- Somebody please explain to me what is so terribly taboo about mentioning Beacon on these forums? If all these supposed yahoos are hearing about Beacon online, why did I see a guy anchored to the tree on the Tree ledge, Portland Rock Climbs book in hand(!), shouting 10X to his belayer that he was off belay on Saturday!? The book is ubiquitous! REI, PRG, US Outdoor, etc. Even if you are the quintessential gym climber, you know about "B.R." The way I see it, Joseph has clearly explained the reasons behind the BRSP update. However, those in disagreement have failed, in my opinion, to convince me otherwise. It just seems personal, plain and simple. More that folks don't like 'how' he's going about things, rather than what the end result is. I swear, I'm all ears. It's my personality to look at both sides of an issue. Please tell me and help me see. But this blanket fear of "people" is flawed because I'm one of the newer climbers that head out to Beacon. (Kev, by your very admission, you were thrilled to see E and I on YW Saturday) If something is a secret, you trust people NOT to tell others, but, (as is the case with Ozone) if you just mention to others to "keep it kinda quiet"- LOL, word will spread like wildfire. What happens is: Even if I tell only 'good folks' about a spot, they, in turn tell other 'good folks', etc. Point is- there are not just twenty good folks out there! See the flaw? I mostly lurk on these sites and try to glean info. It's easy to see that people are upset with Joseph, but I'm having a difficult time trying to pin down concise reasons that aren't muddled with hubris and/or frustration. I'm not even saying or expecting that everyone has to get along- I just wanted to pipe in and say that the "keep it a secret" point of view seems archaic, at best. Sincerely, phillip Quote
Mr_D Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Is Beacon in Eastern Washington? No,...it is in the "OREGON Cascades" Quote
pink Posted November 28, 2006 Posted November 28, 2006 just wanna let everyone know that chalk has mysteriously disappeared from beacon. Quote
JosephH Posted December 10, 2006 Author Posted December 10, 2006 Yep, all three days out there this past week I think the only chalk was from one of the two guys I went with later in the week and he certainly didn't need it for the temperature or the friction. Not sure how well chalk would work when using ice for holds, but that might have helped last Sunday (either that or licking your fingers before grabbing it). Quote
kevbone Posted December 10, 2006 Posted December 10, 2006 only chalk was from one of the two guys I went with later in the week Like we tried to tell you from the start. Rain, does wonders with chalk. Quote
JosephH Posted December 10, 2006 Author Posted December 10, 2006 only chalk was from one of the two guys I went with later in the week Like we tried to tell you from the start. Rain, does wonders with chalk. Well, and like I tried to tell you from the start, I don't like wading through the half a bag of the shit on the first half of first pitch of everything the first week when of all times it definitely doesn't need it - or waiting until winter for it to get cleaned. And it certainly isn't necessary this time of year. A drag folks put so little thought goes into its use. Quote
kevbone Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 it definitely doesn't need it - That would be your opinion, Mr. holyer than thou! Dont you mean "you dont need it". Quote
JosephH Posted December 11, 2006 Author Posted December 11, 2006 Well, climbing in ripping cold and extremely dry east winds the premise of "heat" sweating is out the window. It's possible you are, as pink claims to be, one of the poor 1% or the population afflicted by Hyperhiosis (excessive sweating) and actually really need chalk inspite of the fact those dry east winds would be evaporating it at a rapid rate. Otherwise, the rock right now on the Corner, on Young Warriors, or on FFA/Dodds, requires no chalk whatsoever. You may require chalk, but that's your issue - there is no objective need for it whatsoever. Quote
kevbone Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 I would not need or take a chalk bag out to Beacon, In the cold. Quote
JosephH Posted December 11, 2006 Author Posted December 11, 2006 We should go out there and hit it some time... Quote
kevbone Posted December 11, 2006 Posted December 11, 2006 We should go out there and hit it some time... I want to, but have not climbed since Miles came into the world. Quote
pink Posted December 12, 2006 Posted December 12, 2006 (edited) Well, climbing in ripping cold and extremely dry east winds the premise of "heat" sweating is out the window. It's possible you are, as pink claims to be, one of the poor 1% or the population afflicted by Hyperhiosis (excessive sweating) and actually really need chalk inspite of the fact those dry east winds would be evaporating it at a rapid rate. Otherwise, the rock right now on the Corner, on Young Warriors, or on FFA/Dodds, requires no chalk whatsoever. You may require chalk, but that's your issue - there is no objective need for it whatsoever. pope joseph III , maybe someday i can be as rad as you. this thread should still be in spray, or are you above posting on spray. amen Edited December 12, 2006 by pink Quote
pink Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 (edited) it's chalk season folks. i musta used a bucket of chalk climbing in sun shiny eldo yesterday. in fact, i'm so addicted to the soft white powder i chalk up before almost everything i do. hell, i even took a bath in it last night. mmmm, chalk. Edited April 21, 2008 by pink Quote
denalidave Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 Are we talking about snorting the stuff? That really helps keep things dry. Quote
billcoe Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 it's chalk season folks. i musta used a bucket of chalk climbing in sun shiny eldo yesterday. in fact, i'm so addicted to the soft white powder i chalk up before almost everything i do. hell, i even took a bath in it last night. mmmm, chalk. I need to move there Andrew: I was out both days this weekend ( @ 500 foot elevation) and the only white stuff I saw flying was the occasional snow and some interesting soft ice pellets. Quote
JosephH Posted April 21, 2008 Author Posted April 21, 2008 Andrew - whatever gets you back in shape and keeps you there! What's your schedule look like for this coming weekend and the one after that - I'm thinking of jamming out of here for one or the other given our forecast looks bleak and Vegas is already too hot. Quote
ivan Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 i like the routes where you can't tell the differences between the holds marked w/ chalk and the ones covered in bird shit Quote
Cairns Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 Andrew - whatever gets you back in shape and keeps you there! What's your schedule look like for this coming weekend and the one after that - I'm thinking of jamming out of here for one or the other given our forecast looks bleak and Vegas is already too hot. Andrew here. Chalk is good but you should only use it after having fallen off the move without it. Don't expect to see me taking my advice, though. And when sport climbing you can predict the fall and use the chalk in time-advance mode. But I will be doing the birdshit traverse, today. And on the subject of Beacon Rock: Quote
billcoe Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 Dude, wheres yer harness? BTW, not sure when you were there as the signs been gone a while, but you should look before you lean! I was topping out a year or so ago and noticed that it wasn't attached at all on one side, totally rusted away. These pics are before I sanded, then primed it, cleaned out the rusty mank in the hole, put a spacer to minimize dielectric current (SS bolt-Steel railing) and placed a new Stainless bolt with the tiny "dawg" Aka Raindawg lite". Now we have a full sized Lil Dawg and can bolt freely and with less shame. The railing is old school for sure and defineatly worth preserving. Maybe this years project, (with ranger involvement) should be sanding, priming and painting these relics. Closeup. Cairns, are you holding a big rock under there? Quote
kevbone Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 I…. like….. chalk and I cannot lie….other brothers will deny……. Quote
pink Posted April 22, 2008 Posted April 22, 2008 it's chalk season folks. i musta used a bucket of chalk climbing in sun shiny eldo yesterday. in fact, i'm so addicted to the soft white powder i chalk up before almost everything i do. hell, i even took a bath in it last night. mmmm, chalk. I need to move there Andrew: I was out both days this weekend ( @ 500 foot elevation) and the only white stuff I saw flying was the occasional snow and some interesting soft ice pellets. come on down and grab some yourself some dry rock. Quote
pink Posted April 22, 2008 Posted April 22, 2008 Andrew - whatever gets you back in shape and keeps you there! What's your schedule look like for this coming weekend and the one after that - I'm thinking of jamming out of here for one or the other given our forecast looks bleak and Vegas is already too hot. Andrew here. Chalk is good but you should only use it after having fallen off the move without it. Don't expect to see me taking my advice, though. And when sport climbing you can predict the fall and use the chalk in time-advance mode. But I will be doing the birdshit traverse, today. And on the subject of Beacon Rock: you look like one of those socs from the outsiders. Quote
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