What route for first time up Rainier?

[highclimb]

And also does anyone have any good advice to give. i.e. tips on traning, mentaly(sp) and physicaly(sp)?

or just interesting thing i might want to know about before i head up the mountain?

Aidan

[Charlie]

pressure breath, rest step, eat a little, drink a little

[vegetablebelay]

Before the climb and during the climb, drink lots, and lots, and lots, and lots, and, well... drink alot of water. It gives you your energy, and prevents altitude ailments. Guaranteed - if you hydrate enough, the altitude won't bug you at all. That, and pressure breathing.

Vegetablebelay

[Bronco]

This is what I call the "Deliverance" training (Que the banjos) It will make you a mountain hardman if it does not injure you first.

Find a muddy, stinky swamp that is about knee to thigh deep pick up a 20 - 30lb rock and stagger through the swamp,(carrying the rock) until you are ready to drop and then - yep, do it somemore. Try for an hour with few short breaks. I wouldent try to do this more than once a week, it really stresses your back (and you would smell like swamp). But,it simulates the hunched over hiking through cascade crud you will probably experience near the summit and the smell coming from the inside of your jacket will be similar to the gases in the swamp. In case you are wondering, yes, I actually did this prior to climbing Rainier last year although I was trying to build a bridge through my swamp. It is a little funner than running hills or stairmaster.

If people ask what you are doing (they will), tell them you are building a bridge, or look them right in the eye and say, "you got a purty mouth, boy". HOPEFULLY, they will leave you alone.

On the hill, drink lots of water, eat (even though you may not want to) rest step and pressure breath. If you do these things, you will be draggin your rope team up into the summit crater.

Bronco

[James]

aidan. in addition to frequent hydration i strongly recommend that you bring your vitamin I. what is this you might ask... Ibuprofen. I have been up Rainier 3 times, drank plenty of water each time, been in very good physical condition each time, and only been comfortable when i had taken my ibuprofen. some people just do not have the physiology to compensate for sustained oxygen debt. you will probably not have a problem with the altitude, but if you do you will be glad you brought some chemical relief.

(disclaimer: for any naturopaths out there, ibuprofen is not a vitamin

[philfort]

Training: for what it's worth, before climbing Rainier last summer, I would try to run up a local peak twice a week during the evening (in addition to regular weekend stuff). That seemed to keep me in good shape, and I didn't have any problems on the climb. Started a month or two before the climb. Didn't bother with any extra weight on the back, that just kills your knees.

Mailbox peak is a good one for that (4000ft vertical, and continuously steep trail).

[Paul_Warner]

The "physicality factor" is directly tied to the route you wanna do. For instance, the Kautz and the Emmons don't require a carryover of gear, so you can do the routes with light loads. Liberty Ridge, on the other hand, requires a carryover of gear, unless you want to downclimb the route.

I've done all three of these routes, and my vote is for the Kautz, for yer first taste. If you want solitude, do the Emmons before the road to White River opens up. It's an extra 7-8 miles hump on asphalt, but you'll only see rangers on the route, and might get a pre-dug snow cave at Camp Shurman as a bonus! (like we did)

After you get a taste of how yer body deals with the altitude, go back and do Lib Ridge. It's sweeet, in the right conditions, and fun, even if you have to wander around for five hours in a whiteout on top to find the way down. (like we did)

Much of altitude conditioning is genetic. While it's wise to be in good aerobic shape, and stay hydrated, some people just can't hack altitude above 12 K feet. Do an easier route to find out how you fare, then plan for another harder route if you style.

have fun, whatever you do!

[highclimb]

Well when i was 12 i climbed Mount Adams and of course i was in miserable shape but on summit day when i had nothing on my back but a camal back i was flying up. i felt great at 12k.

But i do know that the last 1K of rainier is the hardest. i have heard the stories. from 13K to 14K you will want to turn around and yell four letter words.

i just cant wait!!!

Aidan

[Sean_Halling]

I wouldn't listen to that guy...he probably doesn't even know what he's talking about.

[AllYouCanEat]

Adian, here are some tips. I climbed and skied Adams when I was 5 or 6 years old. Adams is cake compared to Rainier. I climbed Rainier when I was 11 or 12 and so I know how it feels at your age. The hardest thing I had to deal with was the rope. Also, getting enough sleep. Anyhow, here is my 2 cents: Before you climb I would run up to Muir 2 or 3 times and slog in the snow for a time and see how fast you can do get up there. If you can get to Muir in 3 hrs that is good. If you can't do that, running steps isn't a bad idea since you live in the city. Another good idea since you have been up Adams is to climb it before you go up Rainier -- like a week or two before. Start from the parking lot (if you get there) and climb it in a day. Good workout. Good practice... Oh, a camelback is a bad idea on Rainier just cause the nipple might fall off or the water may freeze. My bad if you know...

[highclimb]

Mike,

i went to one of your talks at the Tacoma history museum last year. you probably dont remeber. you wrote "see you on the hill" in your book i had you sign. the pictures you showed where really amazing. and i do remeber saying to my self how cool the Tahoma Glaicer look. just wanted to say your talk was really great and inspiring (i know its alittle late )

thank you

Aidan

[Mike_Gauthier]

highclimb

give yourself 5 days and climb the tahoma glacier. you WONT be disappointed. it’s awesomely beautiful and very quiet…

the emmons and kautz glaciers routes are both great alternatives for first timers (or second, or 100…). based on the short description you gave of your experience (10,800 high point), i would suggest the emmons over the kautz. Both, however, offer unique and interesting challenges, each with great features and beautiful views. the kautz, like the emmons, has a long approach, but more interesting climbing terrain once on route. the emmons begins lower but the forest and alpine zones you’ll travel through are pretty cool. though the route itself is purely a glacier climb, its crevasses, ice features, and views of little tahoma make the trip well worth it. not to mention, the emmons has AWESOME sunrises… i disagree with the comment above about the emmons glacier, its not “reallllly boring”…

the dc is a nice route and does offer some variety to straigh up glacier climbing. but remember, it’s heavily institutionalized and the most popular route up rainier. expect other people, the guide service and congestion on fridays, saturdays and sundays. by the way, the NPS only allows 110 people at muir, not 250. (I can’t believe is “only”.) there are 35 spots at ingraham flats and 24 on the muir snowfield. the total for the muir route is somewhere around 170… get the picture? the emmons has and its respective camps limit people on route to about 100, while the kautz is limited to something like 50…

to avoid crowds (which are prevalent on the dc, kautz, and emmons), climb mid week.

you ask for tips on success and enjoyment?

1. climb some other stuff first, ie, get in shape. adams, hood or baker are great choices, so is mt. si, tiger mountain, etc... get your legs and lungs up to speed. outside of weather, poor fitness is the most common reason why climbers don't make rainier's summit. if you can’t climb other mountains, then spend some time chasing bike messengers around seattle, biking is great exercise.

2. eating well is important (i say forget the astronaut food in foil packages and make something real on the mountain). DRINKING, however, is critical... don't go crazy and drink so much you have to pee constantly, but drink AT LEAST 2 quarts a day, more if you're sweating a lot. it will make things go much more smoothly. oh, and breath deeply too...

3. PMA. positive mental attitude. i know i can, i know can, i know i can... watch your breaths, eat well, drink, get in shape, and the entire trip, including reaching the summit will be a pleasure.

4. make sure your “tight” with your climbing partners. have agreeable goals, temperaments and aspirations. if possible, keep your team small, 3 people is ideal. large teams incur more problems and move slowly. teams of 2 are great if you’ve climbed together a lot and are familiar and comfortable with each other. if that’s not the case, stick with 3.

good luck,

gauthier

 

[To_The_Top]

Hi Aidian,

My training for Rainier has been running, like 6 miles in hilly areas twice a week, and hiking places like Mt Si (try to get to 1:15-1:20 without haystack), tiger cable trail 35 min, or Mailbox 2hrs. Like Phil said don't pack too much weight, just a few essentials on these hikes. Try the heavy pack to Muir once, or even better climb Mt Baker on the Easton or Colman-Deming. Doing this shows you what works and what doesn't work, and it's easier than Rainier.

I've climbed Rainier quite a few times with quite a few people and the most successful seem to be distance runners mentally when it comes to first timers.

There have been some studies showing Ginko Bibola helps some with altitude, and on the fluids, try mixing Gatorade or Poweraid, this keeps you hydrated and the electrolytes up high. I only take a MSR XGk with a large pot for melting snow, and earplugs, believe me it helps with tent flap noise, and other people making noise at base camp.

Bill

[highclimb]

ok i just need to clear this up before it gets out of hand.

my name is spelled A I D A N

i am seeing to many aidians

the is great information.

thank you all again

Aidian

[highclimb]

well we have made a some what final choice. we will be attempting the kautz glaicer route next saturday planning to summit monday.

Aidan

[Cpt.Caveman]

Good luck and be carefull under the ice cliffs.

[snowleopard_x]

Aidan - I've only been up the Kautz (but not on the very summit, whiteout and got lost!) (been up towards Muir, but that doesn't count as a climb). The Kautz is very nice, just know what you're in for. Look for a book by a guy named Mick Gaiter or something like that, its the best one on The Mountain.

...Wait, I found the link:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898866553/o/qid=990160935 /sr=8-1/ref=aps_sr_b_1_1/107-7953794-7534155

[This message has been edited by snowleopard (edited 05-18-2001).]

[lepiolet]

Kautz - definitely, when in season. No crowds, plenty of that 'remote' feeling, and, for the way back, you can glissade almost to the Nisqually. (tyr to do that on on the Muir snowfield!)

[highclimb]

change of plans bros.....weather is looking to good! freezing level raising to 14,000 sometime this week and then dropping to 11,000 by the weekend.......perfect weather for....mt. stuart!