fgw Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Dr. Doom. #4.5 Camalot sitting at bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 There's a nice little squeeze right of apron strings on the grand wall at squish. Something called yosemite crack up there as well. The last 12 feet of the splitpillar can be squeezed but its too much fun as a layback. p3? of regular route at careno crags (11worth) is 8" for a fair bit. Another at the right end of domestic dome. A cool looking one on mastadon dome at leav. Heard something about a chimney on top of mt jeff but have no clue if its true. The hollow flake pitch on the Salathe is almost as wide as my chest is deep. Epinephrine has a few places you can squeeze at red rocks(vegas) and theres a variation to it thats a beautiful flaring 6 to 20" chimney (pitch 4 or 5) I wanted to try the dolphin at josh but didn't make it over this year. Hex marks the poot was 6-7" for 12 feet. None of this close to Ptown but in my experience these things can be found all over the place if you look hard enough or not too closely to the guidebook . There is absolutely no wide stuff on Careno Crag's Regular Route. Perhaps you are thinking of the third pitch of Careno Corners. The start of that pitch has some 8" stuff, agreed. Speaking of Leavenworth, Big Bad Wolf looks like a really nice 5.10 offwidth dihedral crack. I need to get some more big cams so I can lead that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomagik Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Flying Circus at Beacon, right Nate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 I think there's some old Kjell Swedin route at Index that'd fit the bill. Forget the name, don't think it gets climbed much. Looked at it a few years ago and climbed something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Flying Circus at Beacon, right Nate? true that - climbed it w/ a #4 (old school camelot) whihc was almost immediately worthless - small pro does show up in time to protect the last move or two - you'd dig it john - do local access right below it to warm up the entirely wrong set of mental muscles after that, go a few feet further down the trail and do jensen's ridge - .11 and to 5 inches - wackier than flying circus for sure and plenty of other hardness in finger and hand crack sizes - you might want to consider the poison-oak-less variation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 beacon: boulder problem in the sky flying circus 2nd pitch of wrong gull jensens ridge takes fist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 beacon: 2nd pitch of wrong gull damn! forgot all about that one - looks tits! seem to recall it looked 6 inches in places, and kinda funky too like beacon cracks can be, w/ the crack behind the lip all hollowed out low down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 There's a nice little squeeze right of apron strings on the grand wall at squish. Something called yosemite crack up there as well. The last 12 feet of the splitpillar can be squeezed but its too much fun as a layback. p3? of regular route at careno crags (11worth) is 8" for a fair bit. Another at the right end of domestic dome. A cool looking one on mastadon dome at leav. Heard something about a chimney on top of mt jeff but have no clue if its true. The hollow flake pitch on the Salathe is almost as wide as my chest is deep. Epinephrine has a few places you can squeeze at red rocks(vegas) and theres a variation to it thats a beautiful flaring 6 to 20" chimney (pitch 4 or 5) I wanted to try the dolphin at josh but didn't make it over this year. Hex marks the poot was 6-7" for 12 feet. None of this close to Ptown but in my experience these things can be found all over the place if you look hard enough or not too closely to the guidebook . There is absolutely no wide stuff on Careno Crag's Regular Route. Perhaps you are thinking of the third pitch of Careno Corners. The start of that pitch has some 8" stuff, agreed. Speaking of Leavenworth, Big Bad Wolf looks like a really nice 5.10 offwidth dihedral crack. I need to get some more big cams so I can lead that one. OK I agree There is also something wide a bit past the special spot in Tumwater Canyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 there's that obvious o-dub across the river from Castle Rock. an .11, I think, but i've never done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 w00t w00t! Keep 'em coming! Gotta get ready for old smoothie The only thing that I can recommend for ole smoothie, is high tops, jeans, and taped ankles. John, you should just use some of those frequent flying miles and go to the creek for a couple of days, you'll get dialed on offwidths and chimney's there. Plus it will get you out of the rain in the north west and down to the desert where it will be perfect sending temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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