Peter_Puget Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Wasn't last weekend the big everyone's going to Smith weekend? What did eveyone do? And don't say Freshiez! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Almost went over to Smith on Saturday, but after fishing all morning on the Umpqua, was exhausted and it was sprinkling on Sunday over there. Heard Friday and Sat. were nice though! B/W 5 of us, we hooked into 29 fish! Landed 10 adult wild coho (had to let them go) 2 steelhead (hatchery),eight wild Coho jacks (let them go out of good karma even though you can keep them), and three large coastal cuts. All in all, a good morning of fishing! Sunday went and played in the freshies at Santiam Pass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 it was cold and a little damp, but got some fun climbs in and had a plab time at Timm@ys! the hot tub RULES after being bloody COLD all day ate good food and hung out with totaly fun folks (you know who you are ) GOT TO MEET THE SPRAYIN' CANADIAN and Iain and AlpineK FERN and others. Had to be in the car through the snow and nearly wet my myself I can almost breath again [ 11-11-2002, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: Muffy The Wanker Sprayer ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 I wondered what may or may not have been going on over there as well as I busied myself with the removal of bathroom tile and roof repair. having not heard from anyone yet seems a little odd. Were the treacheous mountain pass's to difficult to get back over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: having not heard from anyone yet seems a little odd. Were the treacheous mountain pass's to difficult to get back over? that's 'cause most of them are still there ... duh! the pass was wet and dark last night, but nothing to be an issue. the weekend was filled with a few sprinkles, an intermittent chilly biting wind, and some cold fingers ... but the climbing was super. thanks tex and timl for getting me on some "hard" stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 how did Heinus Cling go after we left??? anyone else send???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 11, 2002 Author Share Posted November 11, 2002 Wow HC is an awesome route. Pretty runout on real place yoru own pro even Dwayne r and Pope would be impressed. Who sent that guy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Christ!!!! NOT ME!!!! I did however lead bunnyface I wont speak for any of our precious ropeguns... I WOULD NOT WANT TO PISS THEM OFF ROPEGUNS RULE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Having taken the 50+ footer from the top of Full HC(not for fun,and 13 stiches later)it's more like 30 feet once you clip the chains. I'm sure most of you want to do it without additional gear but just in case there is a bomber #3 wild country rock just before you brake left at the top. Place it from the secret huge 1 finger ring pocket a little out to the right just when you are going to break left. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 [ 11-11-2002, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: TimL ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Thanks guys, just got back, had a great time w/ all of you but didn't get to spend as much time as I would like with many of you. Went caving with Dru, Fern, AlpineK, Erik, ehmmic, but mission was aborted by THE TOOL. Monday had good Wx but started to sprinkle in the afternoon. Hope to see you guys again soon. I'll probably hit up smith a few more times but THE FRESHIEZ may keep me in the hills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Yes, it was a great weekend. It was cool see'in all the trad boys and girls crankin down the tuft. I guess when in Rome . . . Thanks for all the support, belays, and beer everyone. Tim is an animal. I couldn't believe he was still out there crimpin on a blown pad - and sending no less. I also learned Jeff is one of those quiet crack hardmen cruising moonshine dihedral and Karate crack in fine style. Great to meet a few more faces from the CC.com world. I hope to see and climb with you all alot more. Carpe Diem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Went down to Smith with the idea that we would probably get rained out but much to my surprise the weekend turned out awesome. Saturday warmed up on the typical Morning Glory stuff then lead up Churning then gave it a spin on tr. Blew out 2 pads on my left hand falling off the dime edge crux so I was kinda bummed that my fingers were trashed already and it was just Saturday morning. Definitely will be a while before I get the redpoint on that climb. Then gave Tex a belay and watched him proudly send Wartly’s Revenge. Then I came 2 or 3 falls away from sending Chain Reaction. Maybe RuMar or Ropegun2002 can give me the beta but I’m having real issues moving past the 3rd bolt and getting to the far left pocket. Kicks my ass every time. Sunday warmed up on the regular Morning Glory routes then went over and lead up the Moonshine Dihedral. Definitely has to be the best crack in the park for its grade. Tex and I gave Heinous Cling short a whirl on tr. Belayed Tex on his first red point attempt which he unfortunately popped off right before the crux. Lowered Tex off HC then fretted about leading it as it started to mist. Decided that its now or never so pulled the rope and headed up with a “lets just have a look” attitude and found myself at the anchors without falling. I was pretty psyched. Tex decided to have another go but said this wouldn’t be a red point attempt. Well, Tex also mysteriously found himself at the anchor without falling as well. Must have to do with the rain washing all the grease off the holds. Good job Tex on your first 12a send! Did Chain again and fell 3 times in the same friggin place. Oh well, guess I can’t have 2 sends in a day. After Tex came down from his send this little dude walked up and asked if he could clip our draws because he was going for the full Heinous. We said sure but were a bit skeptical since it was now raining fairly hard. Dude blew through the lower crux the continued through the upper crux like it was cake. If you don’t know, from the last bolt to the anchors on full HC is around 20 feet on 5.11- terrain and a fall would be about a huge 40 footer. Well it was raining and the rock was getting totally wet. Little dude just hung out on a huge handhold after the crux next to the last bolt for a bit while he regained composure to head off on the run out, wet 5.11a section. He got half way through it then stopped. I thought he was going to pitch but after a while he started up again. Almost to the anchors he veered left about 18 ft above the last bolt and topped out to the left of the anchors, but he still had to pull over the lip on wet overhanging holds. That took him another 10 minutes of just chalking and hanging out 20ish feet above his last piece before he finally, just barely pulled over the lip and got the send. I swear though he had a group of 20 people captivated at the bottom of the route for about an hour. It was one of the coolest things I've seen. Very bold and entertaining. I was almost certain he was going to take the plunge but he did it. Definitely one of the proudest red points I’ve seen. [ 11-11-2002, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: TimL ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 WOW!!!! Sorry I missed Tex's send and the great send after!!! GREAT TR TimL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Forgot to mention the kick ass Mexican Food at Mi Pubeletos and dessert at the Italian joint across the street with the Eugene posse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 "Then I came 2 or 3 falls away from sending Chain Reaction. Maybe RuMar or Ropegun2002 can give me the beta but I’m having real issues moving past the 3rd bolt and getting to the far left pocket. Kicks my ass every time." Here is some helpful Chain Reaction beta, from one of the Doctor's posts at http://www.smithrock.com . Disregard any steps that do not apply to you. OK, from the first bolt: - Left hand to big jug above - Clip 2nd Bolt - Right hand to arete - Slap up the arete - Feet to the right a bit, highstep right foot on arete - Right hand way up arete to good thumb catch, about a foot below horn - Switch feet on arete, keep left knee pointing left, drop right leg around right side, scumming with foot if desired. - Let go with left hand, sit on left foot, reach all the way to the horn, or the pocket below the horn, then bump to the horn. - Stand up on left foot, right hand goes to butter dish - Clip 3rd - Step left foot to square pocket on arete, lock off on horn with left hand - Scum right foot up right side of arete - Bring right hand up to thumb catch edge - Surf left hand out to jug - Slide right hand in to arete - Slide right hand up arete - Highstep right foot to horn - Left hand moves to large gaston - Switch feet (whoah!) - Chill - Right hand up to 2-finger pocket on arete - Stand up and clip 4th bolt - Left hand to bucket at lip - Feet up a bit - Slap right hand up arete over the lip - Keep going with the right hand, as high as possible - Feet way up on crappy divots - Huck for jug with right hand - Stand up to thunderous applause, clip anchors - Lower off - Say "Psh! Felt like .12a to me!" - Go get some tacos and a Negra Modelo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: If you don’t know, from the last bolt to the anchors on full HC is around 20 feet on 5.11- terrain and a fall would be about a huge 40 footer. Was at Smith in October and witnessed a fall on HC from right at the top anchor- the guy ended up below the lower anchors! Later, I found out that the fall was "for fun" as the climber was well in control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 12, 2002 Author Share Posted November 12, 2002 Great TR. Aren't cams needed in some holes fo rthe top half too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 I climbed tuft I ate Mex I drank beer I smoked Bud Green I gaped in awe at hardmen and hardwimmkin' sendin I faced down the Tool while Erik hid the goods I forgot where the caves was at I pimped tuff I fondled pockets I met the puppy porn stars I gaped in the direction of DA TOOF on the way home on I-90 I saw the Mountlake Terrace sign and nearly turned off to the sacred home of JERRY SANCHEZ I heard stories of Jon wigging out and shutting down the board on Friday Nice to finally meet Iain Timm@y Muffy Jkrueger lawngoddess timL Northbynorthwest texplorer and ehmmic. Also to be introduced to hardman Jeff the lurker with the 6 red bull per hour habit. And WHERE THE HELL WAS DFA???????????? Also DFA now that I have your attention what is the grade of the 'approach pitch' to Time To Power? We were up at Shipwreck and gaping at it and it looked fun despite guidebook saying its chossy plowing??? [ 11-12-2002, 08:52 AM: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Dru... *approach* pitch to Time2Power is 5.6 w/ one .11+ slab move...for the full meal deal climb the whole thing from the ground...excellent route w/ a crux that is ezier if you're short and then fun jug hauling through the steep top...Its hard to believe the route doesn't get more action than it does... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by RuMR: Dru... *approach* pitch to Time2Power is 5.6 w/ one .11+ slab move...for the full meal deal climb the whole thing from the ground...excellent route w/ a crux that is ezier if you're short and then fun jug hauling through the steep top...Its hard to believe the route doesn't get more action than it does... Thanks RuMR. That blank slab looks kinda fun. 12c is beyond me but 11 slab might be doable especially if there is a bolt at shoulder height to do the move French style if necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 The Doctor's had his eye on that route for a while; glad RuMr has some info on it. For contrast to RuMr's beta, DFA was told by a trusted hardperson that the 5.11 slab crux was extremely heinous and blank, kind of like the bottom of Liquid Jade, but worse. S'pose there's only one way to find out ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Hey DFA... Its only heinous cuz the stupid bolt is a foot or two below you w/ crunchy ledges to whack into...and hey, I said 11+ SLAB didn't I? Isn't that the definition of gross??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 You've got a point there about 11+ slabs. Krikey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 12, 2002 Share Posted November 12, 2002 Just waiting now for the tell all biography: "I Was A Snafflehound for Santa" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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