Prodigal Sun - Zion - topo please

[fern]

 

I have searched online for a topo of this route and not found one. Does anyone have one?

[DirtyHarry]

Start climbing at the tree. Aid climbing of varying difficulty leads to the top.

 

You going to Zion Fern?

[Dru]

I have a topo. will photocopy for beer

[fern]

I will go to Zion if I get this topo in time to have it silkscreened on my windshirt. I plan to make an all cam-hook ascent

[Dru]

All cam hooks? That would be AT LEAST A5c, maybe A5d. Better check with Beyer to be sure.

[Dru]

i found the supertaco guide topo to prod sun in the R&I with florine on the cover (jan 2003). can you use a 1.9 mb digital photo or should i scan it

[fern]

ah ... found my own R&I ish. thanks for the ref.

[Dru]

how much beer is the reference worth...maybe some foam?

[DirtyHarry]

Coincidentally. I have that R & I too. Its the one with the ice climbing training article.

When you go Zion Fern? We're going in mid-march.

[fern]

should arrive march 21-22 probably - driving from LA. dru I have some empties around here ... you can have them for the return deposit

[DirtyHarry]

That is exactly when we're leaving. Too bad.

[texplorer]

I did the route last year, it's pretty fun but a somewhat uninspiring line with quite a few bolts. Really watch out on the topout. There are really big loose things on top just floating in the sand. I would be careful climbing under people on that route. Have fun.

[dbb]

yeah no kidding! check out those blocks just perched on the edge:

 

 

 

Fun route, small small rack, but I though moonlight was much better. the last two aid pitches on prodigal are basically bolt ladders.

[dberdinka]

I would be careful climbing under people on that route. Have fun.

 

I third this opinion. I knocked a good softball sized block of the topout just breathing on it.

[Alpinfox]

So why didn't any of you take a few minutes to move the blocks? Is this not practical for some reason?

 

[texplorer]

It is a very popular route and there were like 3 parties below us. Also, I think that there are constantly things coming off the top "refilling" the deathblock supply.

[dbb]

Yep, there were several parties below us too and you couldn't touch the pile without it going. For what it's worth, the loose rocks that I mantled onto I tossed up into the chimney

[fern]

thank you all for the xtra beta. If I tackle this or any other trade route in Zion I am unlikely to do it in a push or quickly. Any other beta about bivy ledges/hauling would also be appreciated.

[texplorer]

Even if your not a speed demon you can get this and many of the other aid lines in Zion in-a-push style. Just fix the first 3 pitches or so and then blast for the top the next day. It might make for a long 2nd day but its better than hauling.

[fern]

it may be possible with a partner. it may be a longshot without one. I am just looking to accumulate beta here so I can make some decisions. Feel free to spew it without any assumptions of what I may or may not be capable of

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

it may be possible with a partner. it may be a longshot without one. I am just looking to accumulate beta here so I can make some decisions. Feel free to spew it without any assumptions of what I may or may not be capable of

 

The Desert Pearl Inn is highly recommended for your bivy. Very nice without being all snobby-feeling, tastefully appointed rooms, lovely porches, pool, hot tub, movie rentals, good coffee in the gift shop, etc. You definitely won't regret it.

 

As for the climbing in Zion, it turns out most of it's trad climbing, or even aid routes, most of them multi-pitch affairs with hideous bushwhack approaches plagued by cactus and scrub oak, with hateful slogging descents. Better to head to the north part of the park and hit up the epic sport routes!

 

Oh, and there's super bomb breakfast and Illy coffee at Oscar's (try the breakfast burrito! Yummers!).

[willstrickland]

A few things.

 

I don't remember no f'in tree at the base of Prodigal, methinks homer above was referring to Touchstone, which starts right next to a rather stout one. Touchstone is probably the best cold weather option of the easy walls.

 

First two pitches of Prodigal link w/ a 60m. OK line, stays crowded in season. Descent is one of the easiest you'll ever do after a wall route.

 

Between Touchstone, Moonlight, Prodigal, and Spaceshot, the easiest to make time on are Spaceshot and Touchstone and I thought Moonlight was easier to climb quickly than Prodigal.

 

You can do Touchstone in 5 pitches. Climb past the first bolted anchor and over the roof with the fixed RURP to belay just above it. That's about 180' to the deck. Stretch the rope on the next 3 pitches for almost full 60m passing mid anchors on each. Last pitch is bolted face to easy runout to the top. It goes free at .11- after the first 2 1/2 and has some cool free climbing on it. P 2 (when done this way) is a really cool hard fingercrack. I worked on it for half a day and got my ass handed to me. The crux is pretty much right off the belay, but it keeps coming on that pitch.

I thought Touchstone was the easiest and fastest of the four.

 

Moonlight goes fast if you are willing to crack jumar. Take at least triples or quads of mid sized aliens, you will be happy to have them. Don't get suckered into the false first pitch, it's much harder and sketchier than the real start (which is well to the left of there).

 

If you are going to be bivying on a route, and/or plan to go slow Spaceshot is probably the best option unless you want to haul a bag and ledge. Fix the bottom few easy free pitches, or climb those and fix a couple of pitches above, bivy on the ground and the next day either make it the top, or if you get slowed down bivy on earth orbit (or if you just want to bivy on the wall). That is a really relaxed way to do one. There is also tons of free climbing on it at mid .10 and under, so it's very doable in a day without being a speed demon.

 

Moonlight and Spaceshot are incredible for position. Of all of them, I enjoyed Touchstone the most but thought Moonlight was the best all around.

 

Other key tips: Take beer and/or liquor or with you. 3.2% stout is a waste of barley and hops.

[texplorer]

I agree, as usual, with Strickland.. . except touchstone was my least favorite. The lower pitches were fun but higher up I didn't like the sandy gritty rock. I think Spaceshot and moonlight are the best by far.

 

Fern, I didn't know you were going to climb solo. In that case, scratch the in-a-push style.

[specialed]

As for the climbing in Zion, it turns out most of it's trad climbing, or even aid routes, most of them multi-pitch affairs with hideous bushwhack approaches plagued by cactus and scrub oak, with hateful slogging descents.

 

Oh my fucking God. How horribly uncivilized!

[MATT_B]

When I topped out on Prodigal the edge was fairly clear of blocks right on the edge. If I remember correctly the top out was a large slopeing ledge that had a ton of snand and blocks piled up toward the back. I think it would just keep sliding down toward the edge with time. We ended up halling the bag to the edge and leaving it there. We fixed the final 200 feet to the trail. This "pitch" was mostly class 3 with some 4th/easy 5th spots. Paper, rock scisers for who gets to carry/jug the pig to the top. Don't even think about halling this last bit. There is more loose rock and crap that will end up going for a ride not to mention that your bags would get stuck a lot. As for other routes, I would highly recomend Moonlight! Much better than prodigal.