Cranbo Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Hey, I wanna do the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face at Smiff this year, but it's been a while since I've done any A0, and I was wondering if anyone can recommend a nicely-spaced bolt ladder, maybe slightly overhung, that doesn't get much "real" action, that my buddy and I can gumby around on. Oh, and there should be dancing girls there, too. I've had Marymoor, Camp Long, and Index's Town Wall recommended (but I think TW is a trad crack, not bolted? Haven't climbed there nor looked it up yet, so sorry.) I guess I'm also looking for someplace to practice jugging - at the same place would be nice, but I'll take a separate recommendation for that. I'd do the Space Needle, but I loaned my 200m rope out. - rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Any of the sport routes at x38 above 5.11 are bolt ladders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 The mounties building hass a bolt ladder on the side of it, but I would imagine there are certain liability issues that would prevent you from using it. I wouldn't worry too much about the ladder on Monkey Face. My partner and I are gapers with almost no aid experience, and the bolt ladder went quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 If a climb leader is present, you can use the North Face of the Mountaineers building. Hey, I wanna do the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face at Smiff this year, but it's been a while since I've done any A0, and I was wondering if anyone can recommend a nicely-spaced bolt ladder, maybe slightly overhung, that doesn't get much "real" action, that my buddy and I can gumby around on. Oh, and there should be dancing girls there, too. I've had Marymoor, Camp Long, and Index's Town Wall recommended (but I think TW is a trad crack, not bolted? Haven't climbed there nor looked it up yet, so sorry.) I guess I'm also looking for someplace to practice jugging - at the same place would be nice, but I'll take a separate recommendation for that. I'd do the Space Needle, but I loaned my 200m rope out. - rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 The footbridge at the park by the U has potential. I forget the name, but I have seen people "sport-rappelling" off of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal_Con Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 (edited) There used to be a bolt ladder inside of one of the spiral ramps at Huskey Stadium, do not know if it is still there. Edited February 10, 2005 by Mal_Con Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Only thing you need to know for the monkey face is back clean the traverse at the top of the bolt ladder (or have the follower clip clean that part) and every thing will be just fine. If you don't, things can go very, very wrong (ahh gumby moments). You can practice jugging on many of the 'urban cliffs' around the city. Check out places around the I-90 cap, esp. on Mercer island. I definitely recomend you do this, as it sucks to figure it out all over again on the cliff. Another option is to TR gear cracks like the UW pedestrian bridges with two of the right sized cams. just like a bolt ladder but with every placement spaced juuuuust right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Another tip when doing Monkey Face Pioneer route: pad the rope over the edge of the cave with something for your jugging second! Great route, dizzying exposre coming out of the cave there those last 30 ft! As to your original question about local bolt ladders, the most accessible one I know of on rock are the first 6 bolts or so of City Park, at Index Lower Town Wall. Its not very long, but might suit your pruprose for re-learning basic A0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I am adding a bolt ladder to pope's chimney this weekend while he's away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 How close are the bolts on Monkey Face? If they're close enough, you can yard on a draw while reaching for the next draw (that works on SEWS EBD), no need to bring jugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_m Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 That would probably work. I don't recall ever getting higher than my fifi going from bolt to bolt. Tried skipping a couple of bolts, were too far apart for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 How close are the bolts on Monkey Face? If they're close enough, you can yard on a draw while reaching for the next draw (that works on SEWS EBD), no need to bring jugs. You can french free the bolt ladder wiithout too much trouble. Just bring a chicken cord in case you get tired. You don't need jugs either. Prusik baby, prusik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Come on, doesn't it go free at .12c or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 If a climb leader is present, you can use the North Face of the Mountaineers building. How do you know such things about secret Mountie beaurocratic protocal, Gary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I'm a Mountie and I'm okay. I spray all night. I spray all day. I belay from trees. I eat my lunch. I use snow for TP. On Wednesdays I go to meetings To be taught to climb 5.3. I carry big packs. I hurry and wait. I like to travel in herds large. I don't drink in the mountains But I hang around in bars. I belay from trees, I wear bright shorts over polypropylene tights. I wish I'd been extreme, just like Mark F Twight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 If ya wanna go fast and light, bring 2 daisys, a couple of extra long slings to tie a combo hand and foot loop, and lockers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Gary, you forgot the lyric about gators with no snow in site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 How close are the bolts on Monkey Face? If they're close enough, you can yard on a draw while reaching for the next draw (that works on SEWS EBD), no need to bring jugs. It is totally french freeable, they are very close together. I took my girlfriend up there and it was her 3rd time climbing outside and she had no problem on following the bolt ladder. Don't worry about it and just go out and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.