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Posted

I told you that you should have come skiing with me instead.

But then again, you get to show everyone how much fun you had last weekend for a looooooong time.

Posted

Thanks for testing the holding power of screws Rob. You da man! I've never had the pleasure of testing one.

 

Just curious...

Did you have a screamer on the pro because you thought it was marginal?

Do you think it held because of the screamer.

How much of the screamer was activated.

What size rope were you using?

 

And..was your injury from strictly the adze or did you get bonked on the fall or by the block.

Posted
Thanks for testing the holding power of screws Rob. You da man! I've never had the pleasure of testing one.

 

Nor do I ever want to test one again.

 

Just curious...

Did you have a screamer on the pro because you thought it was marginal?

 

No, I put a screamer on it because I had planned on running it out to the top of the pitch. The ice itself at that point was pretty solid.

 

Do you think it held because of the screamer.

 

Pure conjecture, but yeah, I think the screw held largely because of the screamers reduction of the force. But I am not a physics geek.

 

How much of the screamer was activated.

 

All of it.

 

What size rope were you using?

 

7.6mm twins

 

And..was your injury from strictly the adze or did you get bonked on the fall or by the block.

 

Thats a question I am unlikely to ever know the answer to. My gut tells me one or two of the cuts were from the adze but some resulted from either impact with the wall or with the block that fell on me.

Posted

Someone asked me yesterday if I knew anything about "a climber killed at Bridal Veil Falls on the weekend". How does it feel to be rumoured dead yellaf.gif

Posted
Do you think it held because of the screamer.

How much of the screamer was activated.

The Screamer was the Zipper Screamer - according to Yates "Zipper Screamer reduces peak force on protection anchors by 6-7kN."

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