EWolfe Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 I have always considered this climb a landmark. Always wanted to lead it ever since I seiged the thing in '86 without success. The .11 slab above the roof was especially intimidating. Discuss. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 The ket to Dreamin' is to have a well trained support team shouting directions to the hol dover the roof. Quote
Harkin_Banks Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Seeing as it is smith I am surprised no one has installed a parabolic mirror above the roof so the support team is not necessary. Quote
EWolfe Posted January 13, 2005 Author Posted January 13, 2005 Where at Smith is it? To the right of Scarface and Rude Boys Quote
RuMR Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 5.11 slab? hardly, the thing is like 5.10 climbing...crux at low roof, crux at high roof with miles of easy climbing before and after... second roof, get your feet high in front of you and LOOK over the roof...(I'm 5'-5") so height is not an issue... Quote
TimL Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 i agree with rumr. there is a bolt where you need it and they are weell spaced, but the climbing is solid. amazing route. Quote
RuMR Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 ...and there is a no hands after the low crux to rest before heading up onto the slab where you can also rest the entire way until the roof... Quote
texplorer Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 I redpointed this route earlier this year. Yep the true "crux" moves are off the ground. You then stand on a ledge and get a true no hands rest. I think the climbing up from there is probabling in the low .11's but is continuous, a bit runnout, and slowly saps your energy. I found the true difficulty in doing the route in having enough energy to make the lieback at the roof and pull around. I "cheated" by getting my feet high as Rudy said and then reaching back with my right hand and palming back on the roof. It required a good bit of body tension but I was able to let my left hand depump a little and rest my grip in the right as well. After a few moments I was then able to grab the small lieback and grab the jug above the roof with a little less pump. Definetely a sweet line with fun moves. Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Ya'll think it's a good first Smith 12 project? Others? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 (edited) I think at 12b its plenty over rated. Compare it to say Tales of Power. My choice for a first 12 project would be that climb left of Latest Rage. Better pro and a bit harder technically than Dreamin' but also shorter! Pitch 1 of 5 easy pieces is a fun well protected easy .12 too - hmm actually that would be my choice. Edited January 13, 2005 by Peter_Puget Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Dreamin' is 12a R in the guidebook. ...that climb left of Latest Rage.... PP, you talkin' about "Watts Tots" 12b? "...short crux finesses a boulder sequence above the 5th bolt..." Quote
Distel32 Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 good 12- climbs at smiff: heinous cling crack babies: easy moves, screaming forearm pumpyness of doom can't remember the name, but at the gorge there is a short slab to steep big moves on jugs, 12a I think....near Woman in the Meadow Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Not sure where I got the 12b idea. Right, Watts Tots it is. Short crux. But in the Goldfish bowl. Another good thing about 5 easy pieces is that you can do it in the rain! Quote
RuMR Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Freebase is good... SpankderMonk is amazing amazing!!! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 It is remarkable how different the recommended routes are. Even on the Tuff stuff Smith has a tremendous variety. Quote
RuMR Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 bloodshot is not a 12, MrE...I think pax was asking for low .12's??? Quote
texplorer Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Pitch one of Heinous and Crossfire are also a good ones Quote
Distel32 Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 sorry about the image sizes, old pics, cc.com gallery lost small versions when they updated the site crossfire: TimL Crack Babies steeps! Texplorer: me: Quote
glassgowkiss Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 churning is good 12a if you have it wired. dreaming is easy and not that scary. the slab is 10a/b at most. and if you want to see real run out route go to elbsanstein or czech sandstone. Quote
EWolfe Posted January 14, 2005 Author Posted January 14, 2005 bloodshot is not a 12, MrE...I think pax was asking for low .12's??? Sorry, I meant Planet Mechanic Quote
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