Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

[Crackman]

Think I'll stick to Rocky B for tonight. Maybe try CS later when it gets wet and dark out.

[geoff]

Work. Still slight residual pain in hand but nothing to prevent me from hurting it more.

 

TR - well, it is not my forte and this probably ain't the place but way out in the middle of the Umpqua National forest is Acker Rock. It is about 5 hours from PDX, if you don't go through Silverton, Staton and then back to Salem before getting on I-5 - Kyle?.

 

This placed my bro and I at Green Burrito in Eugene around 9pm. We made it to camp outside of Tiller, OR by midnight and slept near the trailhead.

 

A short hike to the base of the Peregrine Traverse and we were climbing by 8:00am. 11 or 12 pitches later we were on top. All by 1:00pm. There is a lookout tower on the summit along with the coolest crapper ever -well my buddy saw a floating one on a lake in Cali-pretty cool also. I was alright but Kyle checked it out. Photos to follow.

 

There was also a geocache and summit register. We signed the register and examined cache. I left four Cheetos but took nothing. Then an easy walk back to the car.

 

After a much needed bath in a nearby stream we were off to summit the Old Man of the North Umpqua. However, the road was closed and offlimits. After considering swimming or walking across the river or borrowing a boat to ferry us and our gear we decided McKinley Rock does not look too far away. And, if you are a bird that is probably true.

 

But, if your in an old Volvo it takes about an hour and half, if you have proper directions. We didn't but they are posted on the Greg Orton website and there are signs pointing the way. Even so we could not believe we were headed the right way. But after an hour of driving up a gravel road dodging big chunks of rock, and hitting a few, we arrived at a water basin with no sight of the Rock.

 

However, upon closer inspection of the Longridge Trailhead we noticed warnings on a sign that actually meant something to us. Bring extra water and two ropes. Well, we weren't going carry two ropes but knew we were on to something. So we set up camp eventhough I was not that interested in sleeping in my tent because we had just seen a bear. Sure, I know they are out there but to see one, near our camp in the evening seemed to increase my fear.

 

Anyhow, no mauling and the next morning after another short hike, we were surprised to find ourselves at the base of a 400ft chunk of rock. Quickly finding our intended route, we set out on Easy Street. Easy? Sure, but there is some serious distance between the last bolt below the P1 anchor and the previous one. Be prepared to free solo. Otherwise, on top before too long. Again, signed the summit register, read notes on the new rap route but opted for a tree and walk back around to the start.

 

Climbed first pitch of Testosterone Monkey and was surprised to find no rap. So, we added a quicklink to one bolt and a piece of webbing we had cleaned off the summit to the other and made our own.

 

Back to the car, to the N. Umpqua for bathing and back to PDX by 11pm Sat.

 

Number of other climbers - 0. No people at all at the climbing areas.

 

Finally, not to start a war or anything, but the routes were protected with fixed anchors, except for a #3 Cam placement high on the Traverse.

 

Photos just posted in the gallery

[billcoe]

I didn't see the pics, but I heard that the the other Tappet brothers' Volvo got 4' of air and may have set a height record on the trip in.

 

Thurs: Blackberry jam area. Laps. updownupdownupdown. @5:30pm see ya there? Rap Birds to get down.

[gt5816v]

Pardon my ignorance but where abouts is blackberry jam?

[geoff]

Birds is the last obvious line on the very left side of the crag, from top, near the homes.

[billcoe]

Don't know where all you Hosers went.

 

Mike, Ujahn and I had the place to ourselves. It was friggan perfect!

[gt5816v]

Arrrgh, stuck at work 'til 6 =( Next week will be better since it's not a shorty..

[rmncwrtr]

I had the kids and will again on Tuesday, but am hoping mr.rmncwrtr's flight gets in on-time so I can head out with you guys next Thursday. Fingers already crossed for good weather.

[gt5816v]

Thursday night a go for RB? I'll skip out of work early if so =)

[Crackman]

I'm heading over today after work. Anyone up for some laps.

[ivan]

anyone wanna climb at beacon 2day? i'm off work at 240...

[rmncwrtr]

It's misty/wet weather on this side of the river. Anyone know if it's dry over by RB?

[gt5816v]

I dunno but if it is dry I'll head over this afternoon.

 

Anyone else?

[rmncwrtr]

Joshua,

 

My hubby made it back to town, but surprised me by scheduling soccer practice this afternoon. I'm stuck shuttling kids. I'm still hoping to get to RB after and hit the traverses up top. Sorry.

 

Mel

[John Frieh]

Tonight? This weekend? Next week? Inside or outside...

 

PM or call me: 503/758/5772

 

 

What are you waiting for? Talisman is already forming up! Taken 10/27

 

 

[el jefe]

where is this 'talisman' route?

[John Frieh]

[John Frieh]

Tonight? This weekend? Next week? Inside or outside...

 

PM or call me: 503/758/5772

[Farrgo]

It's the first good weather in a long time. Anyone up for Ozone tomorrow afternoon?

 

360.903.7370

-Nate

[Farrgo]

It's gonna rain tomorrow. Anyone up for today?

 

-Nate

[syklone]

I'm down. I'm going to go take care of some things but give me a call if your still interested. It's a pretty damn nice day out there.

 

Troy 503-679-9842

[billcoe]

Working on my thread revival skillz.

 

Someone noted that "spring forward shit and fall back in it" AKA gobment savings time AKA F*cking with the clocks happens this Sunday. So, darkness will be 7:30 pm starting next week. Gobment time 2008 Starts- March 9 Ends - November 2

 

How about a show of hands: anyone interested in reviving the after work laps Tue and Thus this year? Seems like the annual tradition is that last years generation burns out and a new crop of losers gapers posers ...errr, I mean real climbers , show up yearly.

 

For myself, I'm thinking 1/2 a day Wednesdays may be a possible thing as well in addition to the tue-thurs sufferfest.

 

After burning off work early and hanging out alone the other day, in response to the usual after work question the other day of "Hi honey, you're late today, where were you", I looked at my wife and said: "Took off work early, climbing......its my year ya know...". Going on 28 years together, she warmed my heart as she looked back and said "yes, it is...."

 

At that very moment my 17 year old, the youngest, was on an airplane, in the air, heading to Japan for an extended trip.

 

Just sayin...it's my year.

 

Show of hands....who wants to do what and when? Pat McCarthy doesn't post online, but he had said he had mon-tues off. Maybe a Tuesday off day?...

[billcoe]

Gonna put some rehashed stuff here:

 

503-823-3333, the police non-emergency line.

________________________________________________________

 

From last year: the much ridiculed and slightly modified "Terms and conditions" or disclaimer, or early season heads up.

 

Hi all:

 

Sunshine, finally. Looking forward to this.

 

Short technical note: I figure that posting my rant thing here for everybody, just once, might be better than PMing everyone. As it’s a new year, with new folks, I want to restate my terms and conditions. Sorry if you heard this before. I don’t know the skill levels of people who will randomly just be showing up to hang, climb and belay so I’ll repeat.

 

I only have 1 major issue. Safety. As such, I give and expect 100 percent perfect belays. 100 percent perfect means: good communication, ground checks for every climber/belayer, and brake hand on the rope ground to ground round trip for any climber off the deck who thinks they are on, or should be on, belay. If you've ever seen a person dropped by their belayer, you witnessed a less than perfect belay. Might have been a 99 percenter, hard to say, but it was less than 100 percent.

 

1 really don't give a rats ass if you can outclimb me, welcome to a huge club if like most people you can. I don't care. I don't want to hear anyone say it's just top roping or short climbs either. I choose to be safe and as part of that refuse to climb with anyone who expects to do less. If you don’t like what I’m saying here, don’t show up. Last year the rescue crews were called out for 10 cliff incidents, most in the area we will be in. Every Fucking one of which was avoidable, except that somebody chose to not be safe. Don’t think this can’t or won’t happen to you. I once carried out one of the most experienced Oregon climbers who had just finished the easy White Rabbit 5.3 down climb and while turning on relatively flat ground, banana-peeled on the wet mud and seriously pitched. The hospital stay was like a month or so with the broken ribs, punctured lungs, surgery to remove the spleen and permanent pins added to the wrist a week into the stay with more surgery. No one is immune and it’s a choice we can make. I free solo out here sometimes and it always shocks and surprised that rare person who sees me toping out - I’m fine with you doing so too, best not this time of year with this group please, let’s let it dry out and clean off some.

 

I don’t want to teach belays either. If you don’t have your Sh*T together, don’t come out expecting that somebody will help you to get it together. Make arrangements with somebody else some other time, I’d rather solo. I like to get set up efficiently and rapidly to get maximum time to get pumped. That might mean running up 3 laps in a row without untying and/or down climbing. Given the time constraints, it’s not a good time to be dogging a route unless you have a belayer who’s toasted out and done in, and nobody is standing at the base: rock shoes on foot tapping hoping for another shot before dark. You want to smoke a bowl or drink some beers, pretty common and fine by me, stay in control and don’t get sparks on my rope or (more) glass on the ground is all I've ever asked.

 

If you haven’t choked and blown spit on your screen due to my arrogance thus far heres some more:

 

Communication from the top to the bottom can very difficult anywhere we head, the big three from closest to furtherst is RButte, Broughtons and Ozone. Specifics at the Butte: there is some white water rapids or something further below at the butte, and the continued roaring sound never abates and is very difficult to overcome. The hand signal for advising a belayer that you are over the edge, tied in safe and can be taken off belay is a wave of the hand for instance. Planning the hand signals in advance is a good idea. If my finger points down and makes a circular motion after I've topped out, that means please lower me. A fist means stop. Might want to clean some crap off so your trip up is cleaner, or perhaps reclimb a section that felt particularly great or difficult.

 

As there is plenty of slippery wet mud early in the year, leaves and winter moss buildup, safety rules no matter where we are. Tieing a fixed line off a fir and rap to the ledge below even if it's an easy downclimb in the summer may be not just appropriate but smart. It might be dry, but probably not. Bringing headlamps anywhere we wind up isn't a bad idea either, and it can give us a bit more climbing time. I have beater rope and don’t mind getting sap on it. You show up and see a rope tied to a fir, feel free to rap on it as it's probably mine, don’t feel the need to ask permission if you don't see anyone, we're all climbers here. Side note about Rocky Butte: out there it's common to see a single party have 2, 3 or 4 climbs set up, tradition is that you can climb on their ropes. Nice to ask first.

 

If you feel insecure on a single line rap and want a fireman’s belay, glad to do it, flip the rope around till some enquiring person at the base walks over below you and looks up, point or shout and we’ll pull on it to slow you down if you have a crappy rap device and/or hate single rope raps. Tossing an identical sized 2nd carabiner in most atc devices helps slow you down too. Conversely, if you want to lead or not lead but just follow or TR, thats good as well.

 

For the Butte, it had been a active rock quarry, many of the anchors are into large blocks. We had a winter with some freezing; I always, but especially now, like to back up all the anchors with a backup rope tied solid to a fir or a rock further back. I have plenty of sections of retired ropes to do this. Bring your climbing ropes and personal gear, some lockers and such if you have it. Should be plenty of gear and ropes if you don’t own that stuff, so no worries. There are still some blocks at Ozone that may have done the freeze thaw thing as well. Rapping off, before hand communication with the base and trundling is an accepted practice as long as you have cleared the area before hand, and having a walkie takie or cell phone conversation isn't a bad idea if the rock is bigger than a fist and you think it's going to be headstrong and go it's own way. Someone needs to pry the microwave sized sucer off the 5.7 in the center of Ozone sooner or later, might as well be you, and sooner, not later, and planned. Have a warm jacket and water in your pack too, as soon as the sun goes down it's cold.

 

If you want some early season warm up bouldering, you might drive to the top of the butte and jump on some of the short man-made stuff up there. It's pretty good.

 

Have fun, be safe.

 

PS, 2-4 is a great number of folks, I usually bag off if I see lots of cars and it's a big group, please don't be offended if that occurs. It's me, not you, sometimes for no apparent reason I will just walk past you to be solo just because I want to get my freak on alone.

 

It's me, not you.

 

 

[ivan]

bill, i'm certainly game as i'm outta work at 3 most days ('specially since i got a slave, er, student-teacher, for 6 more weeks). i'll probalby be preferring to go to the o-o-o-god-zone more frequently as it's closer to camas, but when i can't find a partner i'll be there...

[JosephH]

Uh oh, Bill is sounding serious about climbing this year - must be his semi-annual trip to the Valley in the offing and some hard climbing at Beacon when he gets back. I better start losing weight and getting back in shape...