Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

[layton]

Still wanna go clambering today and tomorrow.

let me know if you wanna go.

i'm leaving the door in a few minutes with a rack and a bike (in case i can't find someone at beacon).

[castlecrag]

Anyone up for some beacon or something else this week? I am off the next few days, so lemme know if you wanna head out. roadtrip to Stuart would be a good back up.

[fheimerd]

Beacon tomorrow anyone. Just got back from Stuart so a little cragging would be more my thing.

[tangen_fostetr]

Beacon was a sweet time last wed/thurs...my first time there since i moved to Wisconsin from Idaho 5 years ago, and then some. Joseph was a great host. I won't admit to climbing anything there, because of my own tweakage of the moment: 4 broken ribs from a fall at devils lake a couple weeks back. But i can say that if i had seconded the first pitch of dodds jam, or the entire southeast corner on thurs, i would have had to climb with one arm and major doses of percocet...

I first climbed beacon in 1980, when it was "the best climbing area in Oregon." It might still be, thanks to an ongoing effort of open dialogue and stewardship. Today, beacon is, well, just that...a beacon: it shines, it guides, it lends direction to (pardon the pejorative) a climbing world that, in many respects, has lost its way along the vertical path. It’s one hell of a treasure, but for the rampant poison oak, which should deter anyone with a rack of quickdraws to herd elsewhere.

To the stewards: Keep tweaking Beacon. The birds are rooting for you.

[billcoe]

Glad you had a good time Jim. Like lots of people, I sometimes just head there to hang out for a bit too, really enjoy the feeling of just being there.

 

I'd heard about your solo fall and resulting tweakage, hope it all heals up for you fast.

 

Maybe next time I can actually meet you!

[powderhound]

Oh, come on bill, if I can climb with a broken toe, you can climb little hurt finger.

 

LOL

 

Hope that you get better soon.

 

Bryan

[billcoe]

Oh, come on bill, if I can climb with a broken toe, you can climb little hurt finger.

 

No Sir: thats not true. There is not only the anecdotal evidence, but they've done medical studies which confirm that you outclimb me with a broken toe when I'm full strength, while I can't climb for shit with a splint on my arm.

 

Still in awe.

 

 

Take care Bryan

[powderhound]

When do you think you will be ready to rock and roll again? Two weeks .... Anyways I am just giving you a hard time. Hope that you had a good 4th of july.

 

Bryan

[billcoe]

Doc said @ 2weeks, and the 4th sucked just hanging around the house drinking with the neighbors. Well, that part was OK:-)

 

I'm taking the splint off occasionally and stretching 3 times daily. Have ice on it right now typing. The big lump went down substantially overnight once the splint was on.

 

This is your fault BTW in case you were not aware of it, it wouldn't have happened if you'd just dumped your G/F and gone climbing with me like I nicely asked.

 

I popped the tendon on the back of the wrist by using a bow saw after the end of a 7 hour cleaning session with a rake at the butte. I would have been climbing on clean 250' splitters instead of ass-deep in dirt if you'd been in agreement!

 

So obviously it's your fault for sure

 

Ha ha, just giving YOU a hard time now.

 

Take care:

 

Bill

[aradia]

Ack! Hope you get well-healed soon, Bill. We'll climb some routes for you until then. =)

[fheimerd]

Anybody heading out to Beacon tomorrow. I will be there around 9:00 with a rack and rope. PM me if you want to meet up.

[JosephH]

Gak!!! Cleaning at the Butte? Goddamn it. Tangen-Foster blows his ribs, Bud laid his new bike down on his foot, and now you with the wrist. What the hell is going on around here...?

[billcoe]

What the hell is going on around here...?

 

Hi JH! Seems like normal course of events with different people and injuries

 

You haven't forgotten your shoulder have you?

 

Happy trails!

[ivan]

friday at beacon anyone? perfect weather currently...nice n' cool for the Big Pump - afternoon/evening's alright...

[JosephH]

No, and it hasn't forgotten me either. Ivan, I'll be out Friday...

[fheimerd]

I'm heading out there right now. Look for me if your there before 3:00

 

Frank

[billcoe]

fyi Weekend News if you are interested:

 

If you see a new clean line to the left of Bill's Buttress, Bryan Schmidt led a new route at there on Sun. Goes maybe easy 10 or so. No name, location is far left side of the Buttress as you look at it with the crux up high. Pro is mixed the crux is fixed pro (1 pin, 1 bolt) which you can also get a small wired in between the 2.

 

He hasn't named it, and maybe it will stay unnamed like the other 4 new routes there. Edges and ledges, stairway and glass house were tossed around.

 

Then he wandered over and onsited the 5.11 diheadral to the left of Emotional Rescue. Although the book calls it 5.11a, I pulled a key hold off of there like 2 years ago, so probably a bit harder. Pretty impressive day for sleeping in. Guess this means his toe isn't broken as bad as he thought.

 

Later,

 

Bill

[powderhound]

Bill,

thanks for giving me such a great belay and the FA on that route, if you want to keep them all Unknown, great but climbs with names get more traffic. And the Corona Glass House" sounds alright to me.

[powderhound]

Anyone want to climb, this week, thinking of doing some upper 10's out at beacon. Not sure if the waether is going to get better or not.

 

Bryan

[billcoe]

Bill,

thanks for giving me such a great belay and the FA on that route,

 

You're welcome and no worries..... "When a still wind conspires an armor......" so to speak. No kidding, I had recognised the car of a couple of Noobs on top and was heading down to fish a belay from them so I could lead it right when you called. Then I went over and was doing some easy climbing with them to warm up and wait for you and I had time to wonder 3 things while waiting.

 

1st) How hard the potential route was.

2nd) How bad my ripped tendon sheath would hurt.

3rd) How difficult it would be to listen to my wife say "! told you so" in rememerance of her previous days comment of "You need some time off or you're going to hurt it bad" as I taped up and headed out the door Saturday to finish cleaning the line. I ended Saturday somewhat in pain just from scraping dirt and cleaning the crack and have not, nor will I - share this secret with her, so as to avoid the "I told you so".

 

Offering it to you first on Sunday was an easy way to wuss. If you'd turned it down I would have jumped on it. You looked so damn graceful up there it really made it a pleasure to belay you.

 

if you want to keep them all Unknown, great but climbs with names get more traffic.

.

 

Thats not it. BTW Bryan, NOLSE already drilled some holes up top in April with his new NASA Drill, and given that no one has chopped Glenns new route yet or stolen anything off of the new routes recently, (although there is one recently missing from the 5.8 on video bluff which was a non-origonal retro bolt) I'm putting in another set of anchors or chains up on top to easily access your new route. Should help keep it clean.

 

Corona Glass House it is, although that may have at least 1 word too many to ever be considered a classic!

 

 

Have fun out at Beacon, Highly recommend Dods Jam (Dods has a nice warm up to get to the crux, and not a lot of chuff to get there like some of the routes out there), Bluebird, Blownout and Blood sweat and smears.

 

You should have no trouble on Free for Some, I've never had cams on it - it's always all nuts, I would think they'd help a lot. You could probably pull the first 4 pitches in 1 long pitch on Ground Zero too (gets you under the roof), doing it in 1 gets you to the crux up high with nice pieces and soft rope stretch if you fall off at the crux. I suspect you could pull it, goes 5.11d, but it's real safe unlike what you were on yesterday with a low to the ground crux.

[billcoe]

Woke up this am and wife asks: "You going climbing after work today hon?"

 

Me: "Nah, think I'll take a day off."

 

Her: "Hahahahaha told you you'd hurt it the other day didn't I? " "Hahahahaha told you".

 

Me: "Yes, you did."

 

[powderhound]

wife's that what I HEAR they are great for. Hope that it gets better, but if you are feeling up to it I will be crusing through your area around 3:50ish.

[billcoe]

What ya do last night?

[powderhound]

did blowout, or blownout, not sure of the name, and then I tried to get on free for some but I was worked and fell twice at the crux and decided to come back when I was fresh. That blownout route is quite sustained and I was nice and tired afterwards.

 

Bryan

[billcoe]

Sweet, that one was on my list the other day of recommended routes at Beacon.

 

Who were you climbing with?

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