specialed Posted February 1, 2005 Posted February 1, 2005 How hard is NEWS? NW Corner is 5.9 Supposedly there's a 5.7 route on the north face but I haven't found it, and if I did it didn't look good to solo. All the other spires are easy. Quote
max Posted February 1, 2005 Posted February 1, 2005 Two things: First: Sleeping in the back of the car at a trailhead blows. Some of us have no other sleeping facilities. Truck dwellers unite! And second: theres a route on ranier that would be a dayer. i cant think of the name starts with an N.. glacier route i think...long route on rainier that usually takes like 3 days...i was gonna do it last year but just ran out of time... looks beautiful...damnit what is that route called!?!?! and its not on the north side...just a ec i'm gonna cehck out a map... and nisqually? shit i cant remember...but i know the approach was LONG Shit. It's no wonder you couldn't finish the route. Quit smoking so much dope. Oh yeah. A third thing Overall, this is a stupid topic and I should probably be ashamed I even responded. This thread deserves to drift into gibberish. Quote
k.rose Posted February 3, 2005 Posted February 3, 2005 Although these are not technical ascents I'd bet things like Mt. Christie, Athena, Hermes,anything in the Valhallas, or Mt. Tom over here in the Olympics have not seen a one day ascent. Quote
solfuego Posted February 4, 2005 Posted February 4, 2005 sounds like you need to buy yourself a Westfalia, then your comfortable bed will be at the trailhead, probably with a beautiful betty!!! Screw home to home times, you could have bed to bed times! HA!!! Someone could time you for wake to sleep times!!! There is no end to the useless statistics I could produce. Plus they are great for dissovling road-rage! Quote
Cairns Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 How hard is NEWS? NW Corner is 5.9 Supposedly there's a 5.7 route on the north face but I haven't found it, and if I did it didn't look good to solo. All the other spires are easy. There was a 5.7 on N. Face NEWS in the first Beckey. Curiously, it also showed up in the Mountaineers' Intermediate Climbs with a slightly different description ("good granite"). Beckey was going according to Greg Markov who did the climb in poor visibility, not realizing, or so he told me, that it was on SEWS, but for some reason or other it got reported as NEWS. I tried to get an understanding from the Mountaineers' too, but they apparently defy explanation. Anyway, there is a N. Face of NEWS now. The technical crux is low and though > 5.7 it should not hold back a soloist considering the protection on the upper part of the pitch. The climb needs a more direct finish if it hasn't had one. Oh, yeah, the route I'm talking about starts from a small cave very near the notch dropping off to the E. side. Quote
MCash Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 A 5.7 on the south face too. http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/2275/object_id/1805 Quote
specialed Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 How hard is NEWS? NW Corner is 5.9 Supposedly there's a 5.7 route on the north face but I haven't found it, and if I did it didn't look good to solo. All the other spires are easy. There was a 5.7 on N. Face NEWS in the first Beckey. Curiously, it also showed up in the Mountaineers' Intermediate Climbs with a slightly different description ("good granite"). Beckey was going according to Greg Markov who did the climb in poor visibility, not realizing, or so he told me, that it was on SEWS, but for some reason or other it got reported as NEWS. I tried to get an understanding from the Mountaineers' too, but they apparently defy explanation. Anyway, there is a N. Face of NEWS now. The technical crux is low and though > 5.7 it should not hold back a soloist considering the protection on the upper part of the pitch. The climb needs a more direct finish if it hasn't had one. Oh, yeah, the route I'm talking about starts from a small cave very near the notch dropping off to the E. side. Cool. I'll go look for it. Last time I was there, by the notch, I couldn't find a viable line. Worth another go. Quote
crazyjizzy Posted February 5, 2005 Posted February 5, 2005 Apparently, years later, Markov was doing the WF of NEWS when someone who was looking for the Markov NF route yelled up assking for directions. Greg told her of the error, but she took him to task, yelling back to him that "it's in the guidebook!". To which Greg screamed in reply "I am Greg Markov GODDAMN IT!" Quote
Blake Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Lotsa peaks that you can't "leave your car ->climb ->return to car" in 24 hrs. Not nearly as many "Routes"... but then again where does the "route" start and the approach end? Quote
EWolfe Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 The Tooth! Man, that was an epic bivy. The spooning was nice, though. Quote
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