b-rock Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 Oh, check the Mazamas climb page before you head out for a climb in Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 7, 2002 Share Posted October 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by slothrop: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: IEHHH, ouch!  Flick your wrist abit more and you'll bash your nuckles less. Gloves may stop the bleeding, but it still hurts just as much.  And avoid wrapping the rope all around your leg like that! That's the thing -- I didn't feel any pain while I was bashing away. Until I stopped to place a screw and noticed a bloody mess, I didn't even notice! Does having curved-shafted tools make a difference in reducing knuckle-bashing? I guess it's probably easier to flick your wrist with a curved tool...  I was just trying to keep my legs warm with all that rope I was stacking up while belaying. Sloth, I don't think curved tools make much of a difference when it comes to bashing the nuckles, if anything they make it easier to bruise your pinki fingers. I think this is because the curve puts the grip further under the tip of the pick. When I upgraded from my old Black Profets to Cobras I started to bash mine alot more, i kinda had to re-learn how to swing 'em. With the Cobras I have to concentrate on flicking my wrist and pulling my pinki nuckels up and back from the ice, otherwise bruising and pain sets in quickly. I think it's got alot more to do with technique then tool. When I get tierd and sloppy I bangem up good.  nice rope management, figure out how to turn a rope into a sleeping bag and you'd be a rich climber!  [ 10-07-2002, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Learned just yesterday! Always wear gloves when ice climbing, even if it's not cold. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 IEHHH, ouch! Â Flick your wrist abit more and you'll bash your nuckles less. Gloves may stop the bleeding, but it still hurts just as much. Â And avoid wrapping the rope all around your leg like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Geek the Greek: I think the most dangerous falls are the ones you don't expect at all. You're cruising along, and then out of nowhere you slip. Maybe your foot jam peels out from nowhere, or that jug you're hauling up on suddenly breaks off. I learned this yesterday on Mt Washington - Pulled a monster sized hold while downclimbing the N Ridge unroped, landed on my ass then flipped backward over another ledge before stopping myself on a patch of scree. I feel like an asshole and should have been using a rope... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salbrecher Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by slothrop: Learned just yesterday! Always wear gloves when ice climbing, even if it's not cold. Â Strap on crampons eh..... hows "ice climbing"in those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Get the gear beta from Erik and then double it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: IEHHH, ouch! Â Flick your wrist abit more and you'll bash your nuckles less. Gloves may stop the bleeding, but it still hurts just as much. Â And avoid wrapping the rope all around your leg like that! That's the thing -- I didn't feel any pain while I was bashing away. Until I stopped to place a screw and noticed a bloody mess, I didn't even notice! Does having curved-shafted tools make a difference in reducing knuckle-bashing? I guess it's probably easier to flick your wrist with a curved tool... Â I was just trying to keep my legs warm with all that rope I was stacking up while belaying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troubleski Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I am a believer in always trying to keep my mind in the climb. In my limited climbing expirence I have climbed with people that are willing to just follow the leader and tune out what is happening around them. I think most of them would be fucked if something were to happen to the leader/guide. Keep your head in the game! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: Strap on crampons eh..... hows "ice climbing"in those? Hmm, well, it was ice, and I was climbing it. Or did you mean to ask another question? I've never had a crampon come off or work loose. The climb in the photo was only three pitches of low-angle ice (55 degrees?), but I had no trouble. Â Perhaps you'd like to send me a pair of Rambocomps so I can do some "real" "ice climbing". Contact me for my shipping address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by slothrop: quote:Originally posted by salbrecher: Strap on crampons eh..... hows "ice climbing"in those? Hmm, well, it was ice, and I was climbing it. Or did you mean to ask another question? I've never had a crampon come off or work loose. The climb in the photo was only three pitches of low-angle ice (55 degrees?), but I had no trouble. Curiously, Slothrop and I had the same type of crampons, and more curiously, each of our right feet were one peg larger than our left feet... We were wearing different types of boots, so maybe Grivel just makes their left crampons slightly smaller than their right crampons? My boots (Merrell Grand Traverses) were somewhat flexy, so luckily I didn't have to do much front-pointing. Otherwise, I was happy with the boot/crampon combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by slothrop: quote:Originally posted by salbrecher: Strap on crampons eh..... hows "ice climbing"in those? Hmm, well, it was ice, and I was climbing it. Or did you mean to ask another question? I've never had a crampon come off or work loose. The climb in the photo was only three pitches of low-angle ice (55 degrees?), but I had no trouble. Â Perhaps you'd like to send me a pair of Rambocomps so I can do some "real" "ice climbing". Contact me for my shipping address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Stefan uses "tape on" crampons cause he cant afford straps (poor student). Thats gonna suck on Denali next spring. "Team TapeWorm". Â Incidentally I heard a rumor there is gonna be a huge clusterfuck of 18 year old Canadians storming up Rainier and epicing this weekend as the duct tape peels off their crampons.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daisy Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: Strap on crampons eh..... hows "ice climbing"in those? Hey there young lad, some of us girls like strap on gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by daisy: quote:Originally posted by salbrecher: Strap on crampons eh..... hows "ice climbing"in those? Hey there young lad, some of us girls like strap on gear Hinged or rigid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Mr. Natural: What about the directional piece thing? ...Nuts are not even close. Sorry for the remedial shit for most of yall ... One huge BULLSHIT on that one. Some of the best multi-directional anchors you will ever get will be the single nut. 1) A nut in a horizontal crack will often be as secure against an upward as a downward pull. 2) A nut threaded through a keyhole slot and then clipped with a runner will not pull out until the biner is removed no matter the direction of pull. 3) In the vertical crack when the nut goes in and then slots down sometimes a six inches to a foot behind a constriction, while not a true multi-directional placement are often very secure against an upward pull. Â NUTS ROCK. Â [ 10-08-2002, 11:08 AM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordonb Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I agree Nuts rock. Some days I spend hours playing with my nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted October 15, 2002 Author Share Posted October 15, 2002 ELDORADO CANYON STATE PARK Fort Collins climber injured in fall  A 34-year-old male rock climber from Fort Collins was airlifted to St. Anthony's Central Hospital in Denver after falling 40 feet in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to witnesses, the victim's climbing partner lost control while lowering the climber to the ground. The climber suffered head injuries and was unconscious at the scene. Members of Rocky Mountain Rescue and the Eldorado Springs Fire Department carried the victim about one-quarter mile to an ambulance. He was then driven to the Flight for Life helicopter, which was waiting at the Eldorado Springs Fire station. The victim was flown to St. Anthony's, where he underwent tests to determine the extent of his injuries.  From the Discussion List: I was in Eldo, watched the rescue; the guy looked in bad shape. The rescue guys were doing an impressive job of getting the him down the talus, lowering/carrying the stretcher tree to tree. According to some other climbers nearby, the accident involved someone being lowered off of Darkness 'til Dawn. Of course, a sixty-meter rope (who knows, maybe they had even a shorter rope?) will not be long enough for lowering off the two bolts, as they are about 120 feet up. Their rope went through the belay plate and the climber got pretty badly hurt. Horrible injuries are easy to imagine, as one is usually leaning backwards while being lowered, and the fall zone is bouldery and flattish. He had no helmet. As far as I know, there has never been an accident on Darkness 'til Dawn before. Myself, for Darkness, I usually take two ropes (which works well for protecting the traverse moves into the corner low down). The one-rope descent is to rappel/lower carefully to very close to the end of the rope, then scramble down 25 feet or so on steep third-class rock. - Myke Komarnitsky  Hopefully this fellow will pull through. I can remember this climb pretty well and while being lowered off anywhere would be terrible, I remember the landing zone at the base of this route looking especially bad.  This sort of thing shows up all to often in ANAM.  - I've tried to get in the habbit of tying a knot on the belayer's end of the rope whenever I'm on lead so that I'll remember to do so when it counts. Might be overkill for some folks but I like to keep the force of habbit on my side.  Some other stuff I do know...  -Ditto for raps where it looks like we'll be nearing the end of the rope and/or I can't see where the rap ends.  -Also rig an autoblock if I'll have to futz with the ropes on the way down, it's dark, icy, rainy, etc or things just feel sketchy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted November 15, 2002 Author Share Posted November 15, 2002 11/14 Just bringing this sucker back up to the top after reading many posts on taxes, Israelis vs. Palestinians, etc. I hereby propose the following tax: For every five posts you make concerning the topics mentioned above, and/or gun control, property rights, etc. one must post one useful piece of climbing info/beta/lore in this thread or a related counterpart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted November 15, 2002 Author Share Posted November 15, 2002 Useful info includes cool boulder problems in the v3 range on the UW wall.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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