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Don_Serl

West Coast Ice 2nd edition to printer 11/25/04

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Such a great photo of trees and bushes. Too bad about the climber hidden behind them. rolleyes.gifsnaf.giftongue.gif

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Yah, it's an imperfect world; I could brush them out for you if that would help. You're just bitter that Fern pummelled you in another round of "Guess That Flow." cry.gifrolleyes.gif

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LYLE> re: Gumby at the Farm, Vernon:

 

isn't that a TR i see in the photo? now i understand why you don't need bolts...

 

(enjoy your local ice)

 

cheers,

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LYLE> re: Gumby at the Farm, Vernon:

 

isn't that a TR i see in the photo? now i understand why you don't need bolts...

 

(enjoy your local ice)

 

cheers,

 

yellaf.gif I was just kidding about the farmed ice-thing Don, I'd like to check it out as it looks pretty cool. I also like that it may draw some of the pressure from the Marble Canyon climbs. I'm just not a big fan of the Whistler/ Blackcomb over-the-top level of excess and enviro-manipulation, so I choose to avoid that scene.

 

And yea, we were TR'ing it. The hose is back a bit and the water seeped through cracks in the rock, so is completely detached at the top. But now I'm just making excuses; we just couldn't figure out how to get the bolts to stay in the ice! cantfocus.gif

Edited by LYleK

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"Fixed screws" or a series of rappel-placed abalakovs. C'mon be ingenious! In fact you could just pre-place 3 dozen leashless tools and just yard up a tool ladder!

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"Fixed screws" or a series of rappel-placed abalakovs. C'mon be ingenious! In fact you could just pre-place 3 dozen leashless tools and just yard up a tool ladder!

 

oooh. go easy. you'll give people ideas, they'll claim first ascents, i'll have to put these climbs in the next edition of the guide, and i'll have to try to figure out how to attach a grade to them...

FI5?

 

actually, there are already quite a few routes around that get equipped with "fixed" abalakovs as top belays / rap points early in the season.

 

[which reminds me: i'd like to ask ice climbers to always carry a cpl rap-rings or maillions to leave on these fixed top anchors (or important intermediates, for that matter) on more heavily-travelled routes. some of them can get quite a bit of use over a season, and pulling rap lines thru tape or cord leaves them unusable pretty quickly. community service...]

 

cheers,

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"Fixed screws" or a series of rappel-placed abalakovs. C'mon be ingenious! In fact you could just pre-place 3 dozen leashless tools and just yard up a tool ladder!

 

Or one can drill some nice incut pockets and climb with no tools at all. Then if it is considered bad, they can be filled with epoxy...

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update: proof copy back from printer, corrected, and back into their hands Monday Dec 13.

next steps: burn the plates and run the print job - pretty quick.

however, then comes the bindery, which takes more time.

still looking OK for 1st or 2nd week of January...

cheers,

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your book will be in before the ice ! wink.gif

 

god, i hope not. i thought Marble Canyon at least was looking hopeful, but it seems it's gonna get warm even out that way.

 

from: http://www.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/forecast/city_e.html?WCL

 

Clinton: Issued 5.00 AM PST Tuesday 14 December 2004

Today .. Cloudy with sunny periods. 40 percent chance of flurries. High zero.

Tonight .. Cloudy. 30 percent chance of flurries this evening. Low minus 3.

Wednesday .. Cloudy with sunny periods. High zero.

Thursday .. Cloudy. Low minus 2. High plus 1.

Friday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of rain showers or flurries. Low minus 2. High plus 3.

Saturday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low zero. High 5.

 

Normals for the period .. Low minus 12. High minus 4.

 

sheesh...

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Don -

 

Do you have an ISDN yet? I would like to order from my local bookstore, but cant without a publisher and ISDN. Elaho is the publisher i gather.

thanks

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The mistery Janis is actually Janez smile.gif

 

He is out in Canamore now:

 

403.609.0480

 

Welcome to give me a shout when you get here.

(Notice that I wrote when and not if...)

 

We had a real west coast day here, freezing rain and all that...

 

Thanks for all the work on the Guidebook Don, last two seasons were great fun out on the coast... rockband.gif

 

Janez.

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latest update: as of Dec 30th, publisher is saying they will ship "next week" (i.e. week of Jan 3rd). this is about as expected. no guarantees tho!

 

it's possible (altho doubtful) that local stores in Vancouver - Squamish - Whistler would have copies by weekend of Jan 8-9. more likely early the following week (Jan 10 onward).

 

assuming the same arrival to Elaho, US stores in Bellingham - Seattle - etc ought to have it before the Jan 15-16 weekend.

 

direct purchase from Elaho is possible - details are provided in a separate posting.

 

cheers,

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Don -

 

Do you have an ISDN yet? I would like to order from my local bookstore, but cant without a publisher and ISDN. Elaho is the publisher i gather.

thanks

 

apologies for the long delay - several other pieces of information needed to be in place before it was possible to reply fully.

 

the ISBN is 09733035-3-0.

title is "West Coast Ice"

author is Don Serl

 

BUT, unless your local bookseller already deals with Elaho and/or is buying a minimum order of $250, the book won't be available to them.

 

best bet for you is to order direct from Elaho.

the information for this is available on a separate posting.

 

you could also order from MEC or (perhaps) REI once they get the book, but it'll get to you sooner to get it direct from the publisher.

 

cheers,

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Don -

Thanks for the number and advice. I will get my local shop on it, i have already talked to the manager. I will also toggle local REI.

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i know, i know...

i'll update as soon as i get info from kevin.

meanwhile, there's lots to do everywhere - just go, it's good...

p.s. how was Quebec? fill us in; do a TR thread...

cheers,

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the books arrived in a warehouse in Coquitlam today, Friday January 7, and should be delivered to the publisher in Squamish on Monday Jan 10th. provided they don't arrive right at the end of the day, they should actually be available in the climbing shops in Squamish late Monday. MEC in Vancouver should have them by Wednesday or Thursday. (it's not yet clear whether there will be books ordered for direct delivery to MEC North Vancouver as well...)

 

i doubt the Bellingham - Seattle area shops will get their books before the Jan 15-16 weekend, unless they specify some higher-speed (and higher priced) delivery method).

 

just about...

 

cheers,

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quebeck was very nice. also visited adirondacks (2 days on pitchoff). pont rouge is fantastic place, better later on in the season, when the river is frozen. st alban was fantastic place for dry-tooling. want to go back. didn't do anything long or burly, so there is no reason to write tr. the only comment i would make that pont rouge has such a sitty rock you can actually bash your picks into it! st alban has everything from M3 to M10 and it's all bolted!

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Ice Guide arrived at Valhalla Pure in Squamish yesterday. It looks great, Don, good work. And everything's frozen solid just in time.

fruit.gif

 

We can arrange mail order for people who can't wait for it to arrive at your local shops - 1 877 892 9092

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Murray:

 

How late are you open (?) - I am leaving Seattle @ about 1:00PM on Saturday and hope to be in the vicinity of your shop by 5:00-6:00.

 

I'd like to make an in-person demonstation of the virtues of capitalism by buying a copy at your shop if you'll be open.

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Open until 6 on Saturday, but if you're running late just give me a call. I don't usually get out of the store until 7-ish or later on a good day, so I'll probably still be here even if I've turned the lights off.

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