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Janez_Ales

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About Janez_Ales

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 12/10/2004

Converted

  • Occupation
    HyperPlanesDrifter
  • Location
    Vancouver/Canmore
  1. GNA Ice Screw Sharpening Service

    I am not sure how happy would GNA be to sharpen BD or any other brand screws... In any case the first thing I do to any NEW screw is to SHARPEN them! My sharpening job makes NEW screws go in EASIER than straight off the shelf ones. You can try it yourself or I can sharpen your screws for a small fee (can also do picks and crampons). (e-mail me at janez.ales@gmail.com) Remember that any teeth can be fixed, but threads can not. The mesh tubes are also a good protecting item if you do not have an ice screw bag with single screw slots. BD TURBO EXPRESS $54 CAD BD TURBO $39 CAD So if one has Turbo Express's, as one should assuming you do have BD screws, then "sharpening math logic" becomes: approx 5:1 (for Turbo Express) rather than 3:1 (for Turbo), not to mention that your rack is getting smaller. That is some cash saving, unless you can afford buying new screws every season... in which case you do not need to know the math anyway...
  2. straight shafts on steep ice

    Bashed knuckles are most often a consequence of swinging your tools with what I call a "hammer swing" - straight into the ice, think of the fact that what you have in your hand is not a hammer, but a hook, so insted of whacking your wrist into the wall, the wrist actually only rotates and at the end pulls slightly down at the point of strike. Having "spikes", "fangs", or home made hooks for your pinky helps also, when you do mess up your swing... They would help on a straight shaft also, but to be stable on the ice they need some metal teeth on ice contact surface like the BD Fang. Grade 4 is rearly very featured (unles you look at Wicked Wanda and alike so straight shafts with some hooks will be just fine for that level, you will also be able to hang on your shaft better, hence you can release the leash a bit so you will get more circulation and be therefore warmer. with a good clip leash you can even shake out and combine the advantages of leashless climbing with the saftey of a leash.
  3. Or what happens when you pour stomach acid down your bronchial tube and use an asthma inhaler on 2700m while trying to climb? Check: hyperplanesdrifter.blogspot.com for some insight into a medical misdiagnosis in case you get the same one
  4. Simulated ice wall at Warehouse Rock Gym in Oly?

    ... or Baker if you live around the border. (Just make sure you add a V-thread to your sun exposed top-rope anchors, screws tend to melt faster than we would like
  5. chehalis access?

    My toyota tundra got up to the Statlu TH last year also. As Carla pointed out a fun ATV road... even more fun with a slightly bigger ATV All this said, I did walk into Nursery Pass once from the C. Lake
  6. Bugaboos (July/August)

    Enjoy Alaska, J.
  7. Bugaboos (July/August)

    Would like to spent most of the two months in Bugs (East Creek Boulder camp) Looking for a partner for all or part of this time. We should climb together in Squamish beforehand janez.ales@gmail.com ;~J
  8. A new low in rock climbing

    What is ice climbing practice for... skiing? Progression from Ice and Alpine continues to "funkynewagetradmixed" (used to be called simply (pretty damn hard)alpine and of course there will be dynos and climbing yoga moves, just like in bouldering, so you see, the circle is complete, the spiral continues, albeit on the "higher" level, so they say... or so we would like to think about it, cynism and sarcasm aside When asked if I am bouldering at all I say that I used to do a lot of it in ... dare to admit 87 when could not find anybody to take my adolescent bones out climbing after seeing a movie of some French star doing the American Crack, fell off - the crack that is, too bad my dream route
  9. Cruel Shoes

    My feel is that both cruxy moves are not that hard if you get the general idea of what needs to be done. Power will not help on either. Last year I watched somebody doing a dyno on the last pitch of CS, not quite the way to approach it... both cruxy parts are well protected, unlike in 1991 when I did it first and we had old rusty bolts on the same spots but they did not instil any great confidence Thanks for rebolting to those who did it!
  10. bugaboo camping and ride needed

    I should be in by the begining of July...
  11. Red M&Ms

    Climbed Red M&M's after the bolts were choped without knowing the story. The stud holes induced an unnecessary thought when I discovered one - got seriously distracted while placing the 20th or so RP It is a great trad lead and am glad that it will stay that way. I guess these things should get discussed before drilling starts whatever the outcome is.
  12. bugaboo camping and ride needed

    I will be in the Bugs also, but would like to stay at the East Creek (base of Howsers) most of the time (that one is out of the park and free).
  13. Back on the Coast

    I am back in Vancouver/Squamish (after a great and not so long season in Canmore). If you want to go climb some cracks send me an e-mail. Will be into alpine when I break in my new shoes
  14. rugged, yet elegant

    The "passion and obsession" for unicorns... This one comes with a reverse angle and in a leashless package for the most advanced moves on and off the ice. Most suitable for angles between 69 and 96 degrees. Helmet mount included. Get one while quantities last!
  15. Anybody up here for some Yaming (Yamnuska) or craging? Send me an e-mail janez.ales@gmail.com Janez.
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