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Don_Serl

West Coast Ice 2nd edition to printer 11/25/04

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printer time 5-6 weeks + 1 wk for Christmas.

eta to Elaho in Squamish Jan 10-15/05.

eta to local stores (Squamish/Vancouver) 1-2 days later.

eta to Bellingham/Seattle 1 wk - 10 days later.

(apologies for the lateness. the objective was pre-Christmas, but there were quite a number of detail edits which I needed done before signing off - I'll take the stick - it's not Kevin's fault...)

 

i had an inquiry about ordering direct from Kevin McLane at Elaho, and he says this will be possible, but i do not have details yet. (e.g., payment by Visa, or what? cost for surface post; to Canada; to USA? cost for air post? courier?)

will advise once i get details.

 

if you're an MSN member, you can view a copy of the cover at: http://ca.msnusers.com/WestCoastIce/Documents/wc5%20%2D%20cover.pdf

(sorry, it was too big to attach here, and i don't have Photoshop myself to cut it down...)

 

cross your fingers for cold weather!

cheers,

Edited by JayB

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The wading the creek photo on the back cover is sure inspiring all right cantfocus.gif

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On the back cover is that Janis on that pencil that was in last year, on the way back to Lilloett down the road from Syncronicity?

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The front cover looks suspiciously like a partially formed version of The Tube but I bet it isn't... Red Wall Wanderers?

 

Pretty sure also that the back one is Janez on the Middle Three Sisters pillar.

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The front cover looks suspiciously like a partially formed version of The Tube but I bet it isn't... Red Wall Wanderers?

 

Pretty sure also that the back one is Janez on the Middle Three Sisters pillar.

 

good work on the front cover dru: this is Graham Rowbotham on the 'main' pitch on Red Wall Wanderers - a wonderful route in a superb location, BUT this pitch takes a while to come in and is often/ usually wet . still, VERY worth the walk. 2 beautiful grade 3/3+ pitches below the column, then 25m-30m WI5, then 4 ropelengths above, each including a 15m-25m step of WI3-WI4.

 

back cover is NOT "the strand", which was what we ended up calling the lttle column in the 3 sisters area 10km W of Lillooet, altho that's a good guess - a quite similar formation, altho the strand is maybe 5m longer.

 

cheers,

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I'd guess Millar's," too. Is the creek crossing in to "Salmon Stakes" or "Shriek...?" By the background and road location I'd say "Salmon Stakes," it looks cold.

 

Don, good choice for the front cover, it's a well-deserving route.

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It's more like this:

 

omg, where was this photo when i was looking for covers???

 

btw, not millar's pillar. or like a rocket...

 

cheers,

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as far as red wall wonderers this route is imo the best line in the whole area. i must say it was pretty stiff for wi5. the line bolted going through thr roof to the left looks just amazing. does anyone know if it was done already or is it still a project?

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farmer finestone

 

Fern wins! good work, lass!

 

the late, great Chris "Beeker" Romeskie on Farmer Finestone, up on Blackcomb. Jia Condon photo.

20m WI5. note the absence of the cord...

 

Blackcomb has become one of THE 'hot-spots' (to use an inappropriate metaphor) for ice and mixed climbing. there are 32 routes in WCI2 on Blackcomb Mountain: 11 mixed-cum- alpine dry-tooling on Husume Buttress and Flanks of Phalanx; 7 at "The Office"; and 10 (including the pictured column) at "The Farm" (all ice there man-made, btw); plus 4 more scattered about here and there. it's becoming a great place for winter climbing.

 

yah, it costs you $30 or so for the single ride lift ticket (cheaper than gas to Lillooet...), and yah, you gotta have the avvy stuff to show (beacon, probe, shovel), but the terrain is high [above 2100m on Husume; about 1600m at the Farm] so the season is long. and it's kinda fun climbing in the midst of a ski-resort, i find. lotsa trendy clothing to check out!

 

lotsa coverage in the guide, of course...

 

one tip if you're going: try to get your tools INTO your pack. you have to ride at least a couple lifts to get to any of the areas, and i hung up my pick on the seat-back when i went to get off one time last year. kinda embarrassing: had to ride "round the bend" and trip the stop lever before i could get free. i'm not much beyond being a complete fuck-up when it comes to skiing anyway, but this was particularly poor form!

(the liftie was nice enough about it, but i felt pretty stupid...)

 

cheers,

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Fern wins!

 

what's my prize? a copy of the new guide? tongue.gif ... or just the knowledge that I am snarter than dru and lyle yellaf.gif

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as far as red wall wanderers this route is imo the best line in the whole area. i must say it was pretty stiff for wi5. the line bolted going through the roof to the left looks just amazing. does anyone know if it was done already or is it still a project?

 

RWW is superb, without doubt. only issue is that the column comes in late, and since it's a 1 1/2 - 2hr approach, it's nice to have an idea whether it's "ready to go". you can scope it from one high point on the Duffey...

 

and the bottom pitch of Tre's Burly, a superb 55m WI4 which i'm treating as a route in its own right [Not So Burly] is well worth the walk too. Tre's Burly itself virtually never forms.

 

fact is, Copper Creek is a wonderful approach valley - there are some quite amazing creekside cliffs that one day might host some VERY steep sport-climbing. plus there are several "culturally modified" cedars, with BIG rectangular chunks peeled out of the bark. maybe primeval ice climbers marking their FAs?

 

as for the bolted line, that's still an Andrew Boyd project. there is potential for other lines too - it's just a ways to go...

 

cheers,

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Fern wins!

 

what's my prize? a copy of the new guide? tongue.gif ... or just the knowledge that I am snarter than dru and lyle yellaf.gif

 

secure in that knowledge...

(but if you're so "snart", how come u can't spell?)

 

tee hee,

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Blackcomb has become one of THE 'hot-spots' (to use an inappropriate metaphor) for ice and mixed climbing. there are 32 routes in WCI2 on Blackcomb Mountain: 11 mixed-cum- alpine dry-tooling on Husume Buttress and Flanks of Phalanx; 7 at "The Office"; and 10 (including the pictured column) at "The Farm" (all ice there man-made, btw); plus 4 more scattered about here and there. it's becoming a great place for winter climbing.

 

yah, it costs you $30 or so for the single ride lift ticket (cheaper than gas to Lillooet...), and yah, you gotta have the avvy stuff to show (beacon, probe, shovel), but the terrain is high [above 2100m on Husume; about 1600m at the Farm] so the season is long. and it's kinda fun climbing in the midst of a ski-resort, i find. lotsa trendy clothing to check out!

 

Excellent.

 

I'll be up at Whistler the fourth week of Jan, and was looking for a little activity for my 'rest' days.

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farmer finestone

 

Fern wins! good work, lass!

 

the late, great Chris "Beeker" Romeskie on Farmer Finestone, up on Blackcomb. Jia Condon photo.

20m WI5. note the absence of the cord...

 

Blackcomb has become one of THE 'hot-spots' (to use an inappropriate metaphor) for ice and mixed climbing. there are 32 routes in WCI2 on Blackcomb Mountain: 11 mixed-cum- alpine dry-tooling on Husume Buttress and Flanks of Phalanx; 7 at "The Office"; and 10 (including the pictured column) at "The Farm" (all ice there man-made, btw); plus 4 more scattered about here and there. it's becoming a great place for winter climbing.

 

yah, it costs you $30 or so for the single ride lift ticket (cheaper than gas to Lillooet...), and yah, you gotta have the avvy stuff to show (beacon, probe, shovel), but the terrain is high [above 2100m on Husume; about 1600m at the Farm] so the season is long. and it's kinda fun climbing in the midst of a ski-resort, i find. lotsa trendy clothing to check out!

 

 

Farmed Ice?!? No wonder I didn't get it first (good job Fern;)... Farmed Ice/ Farmed Salmon, all the same blasphemy. Next the farmed ice will start co-mingling with the natural ice, bolts will pop up around the natural ice like sea lice. It'll be the end of natural ice stock.

 

And at a ski resort?!? I got in to ice climbing to get away from that scene!! Though if it bleeds off the gumbies who are into that ...

 

Gumby at the Farm, Vernon

419133-File0003a.thumb.jpg.dec38ca2b551d71646e8f7cbf5004d2e.jpg

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