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5 best routes in PNW


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It's a lovely 5.11a on Tenino Sandstone with a wide variety of moves, about 60' long, and in my front yard. It is in fact a great route, but a bit of an in joke nonetheless. PM me if you wanna come out climbing sometime.

 

1970drederek_on_Manly_Wham_small.JPG

 

 

BTW, the origin of the name is a campground on Lake Chelan, but it has a certain poetry to it.

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It's a lovely 5.11a on Tenino Sandstone with a wide variety of moves, about 60' long, and in my front yard. It is in fact a great route, but a bit of an in joke nonetheless. PM me if you wanna come out climbing sometime.

 

1970drederek_on_Manly_Wham_small.JPG

 

 

BTW, the origin of the name is a campground on Lake Chelan, but it has a certain poetry to it.

 

 

Yeah, but here's the real question, what is the campground name's origin? and what is the proper pronunciation? I bet Lowell Skoog would know, but he seems to only be on the NoCa board. Anyway, that's the info I wanted OffWhite, I had never heard of the route and wanted to know the Lake chelan connection. I'll check back later and see if anyone knows hows the route/campground got that name and how to say it.

 

P.S. anyone else been to that campground?

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My favorites:

 

Classical Mountaineering- Shuksan- Fisher Chimneys

Ski tour -Little Tahoma

Trad- Squamish's split pillar pitch or Leavenworth's Rotc (tie)

Sport- Anything on WWI at exit 32

Alpine rock- girth pillar

Ice- Drury falls- Haven't found better in WA, Montana, or Western BC.

Bouldering- tons of stuff in the woods below the grand wall of squamish

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The notion of "best" versus "favorite" is interesting.

 

I decided to look through my journals and figure out my favorite climbs objectively, based on how many times I've done them. I didn't distinguish between different routes. The results surprised me in a few cases. Here's my top twelve, in order:

 

16 - Silver Star

13 - Eldorado

12 - Baker

11 - Forbidden

11 - Stuart

10 - Sahale

10 - South Early Winters

9 - Black

9 - Rainier

9 - Saint Helens

9 - Shuksan

8 - Liberty Bell

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Where would you take a visiting climber to showcase your local area? On a day trip? For a weekend?

 

Day Trip

---------

Index - either Lower Wall Circuit (GM-HOC + Godzilla->Sloe Children, Thin Fingers), or Davis-Holland. Upper Wall has the views that would be important to show off your area.

 

D-Town - It'd be a hard decision between Dreamer or day on Exfo-Dome climbs (2 out of Jacob's Ladder, Rain-Man, Dark-Rhythm, maybe top out if they wanted to bag a summit). Great views on these, and either characteristic WA jungle or the granite sidewalk for great approaches.

 

Static Point- WA jungle, old growth, then beautiful view climbs (Fuddhat or maybe Shock Treatment, Lost Charms thrown in if time).

 

Tooth! grin.gif (if time was quite short)

 

Vesper N Face

 

Columbia Peak for an incredible view hike

 

Weekend

-------

Shuksan- Fisher Chimneys, easy, but not too easy with awesome and continually changing views.

 

Forbidden - if we could get a pass

 

Washington Pass - just about anything

 

NR Stuart(w Gendarme) (long weekend)

 

Note I've left out L'worth, just not enough views, though Castle Rock is tough to beat for moderate cragging with history.

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Torment-Forbidden Traverse: many different challenges, hardest route climbed with my girlfriend.

 

Davis Holland/Lovin Arms: Classic granite. Enough said.

 

Mt. Baker N.Ridge: Way more interesting than any other route I've climbed on Baker. It was all about style though: car to car in 12 hours.

 

Clean Break, juno tower: it's all about the line.

 

NE Butt of Goode: A little ice, a bunch of rock, a chunk of wilderness, and a damn near circumnavigation of the peak.

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Manly Wham (pronounced to rhyme with the word "prom" like High school Prom) was an long time chelan resident and doctor who made trips up and down the lake to attend to emminent medical needs in remote areas. I'm not sure if he was forced to camp at the Manly Wham spot due to a storm, or if it was just named for him due to local prominence.

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If I haaad to limit it to 5, I guess:

 

North Ridge Baker - amazing views, easy & fun

North Ridge Forbidden - awesome day trip with thedanielpatricksmith

North Buttress Fury - very asthetic!

Catapult/Canary/S Face Jello Tower

N Ridge Stuart w/Gendarme

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It's more fun to say manly Wham, like HAM, but to be technically corrected it's pronounced the less fun way. I climbed Castle Peak from Manley Wham (the campground, not your slab) this summer. I'd definitely say that you should pronounce your route however you want. Now I want to climb it though, and maybe become the first person to do both "Manly Wham" climbs.

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There are so many good routes in the PNW, this is really tough.

-North Ridge of Stuart(gendarme)-Sooo goood, and good style

-Hood-South Side-A route that you can go solo in the winter just to be outside playing in the mountains

-Smith-Lion's Jaw-a great connection to smith

-Dreamer-awesome style, and great climbing. How bout' that last crimpy pitch 1200 feet off the deck rockband.gif

-Backbone Ridge w/fin direct on Dragontail-we were committed, and battled through getting off route with a storm approaching. Great rock and pitches.

rockband.gif

Keep um' comin' fruit.gif

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