NadLowe Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Should verglas be expected on the route (especially in couloir below gendarme)with the freezing level where it is at in the next few days? I've been reading that a full rack is not needed- What sizes- cams and chocks? Quote
DPS Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Snow and/or verglas is a possibility. The couloir below the gendarme is often damp, so if it gets cold it could be icy. If you are skipping the gendarme, (it sounds like you are) then a small rack is all one really needs. I think 6-8 medium to large nuts, maybe 4 cams, 0.5-2.0 (Camalot sizes) Quote
Lambone Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 In my opinion, the Gendarme is an easier finish then the variation, especialy if there is alot of ice down in there. If you take the Variation late season, you might want to take somwthing a little more heafty then a flyweight Ice axe. Quote
specialed Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Wet and snowy, most likeley verglass - at least by the variation like Bone says. And what the fuck are you doing up at 4 in the morning? Quote
Alasdair Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Should verglas be expected on the route (especially in couloir below gendarme)with the freezing level where it is at in the next few days? I've been reading that a full rack is not needed- What sizes- cams and chocks? Dude, NR of stuart would be a total fucking horror show right now. What are you thinking? It will rock covered by several inches of wet snow. There will be very little verglass. I recomend you take your full rack to the east side of the mountains and crag climb. Quote
Lambone Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Give it a clear window to dry out, it doesn't take long to dry at all, maybe 1 or 2 clear days. I did the NR on October 27th last year and it was stellar. Crappy Disposable camera photo.... Quote
specialed Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 It was a lot fuckin drier last year. But NR is still a "mountain climb" it is never too steep and can be done in less than perfect conditions fur sure. Just don't expect it to be as easy or quick as it would be in July. Quote
Lambone Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Are you arguing that the crest of the ridge would take more than 1 good sunny day to dry out in the fall? I doubt it. Quote
specialed Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Maybe if it was supposed to be hot and sunny, which it ain't. Quote
Alasdair Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 There was somewhere in the range of three feet of snow dumped on the thing last week. On the summit of Dragontail on sunday there was enough snow that it was impossible to find the summit register. There were 4 of us digging for about a half hour. The north side of Stuart was almost completely white. IF I had my pictures developed I would post one, but it looked like full on winter conditions. Quote
Alasdair Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Are you arguing that the crest of the ridge would take more than 1 good sunny day to dry out in the fall? I doubt it. I am. Even with several days of sunny weather, the amount of snow dumped last weekend would still be on all the ledges and dripping. Unless we get several weeks of warm sun, this route will likely not be dry again this year. Quote
Alasdair Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Oh and one more thing. It is still dumping snow up their right now. Quote
Lambone Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 hmmm...ok fair enough kind of hard for me to appreciate since it's 70 degrees and sunny out my window right now... still think that wind would keep alot of that snow off the crest of the ridge which is where 90% of the climbing is. Quote
Dru Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Can you make a winter ascent in the fall Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 One of these days they'll have a gondola and web cam up there to stuart lake. Can you make a winter ascent in the fall? Probably not. But you can certainly find winter conditions in the fall. And that is what "winter climbing" is all about right? Most complaints or arguments I see stemming from this debate is someone climbed something in winter conditions during say non calendar winter then someone else just wants to complain or nitpick about it... But then again - I could see winter conditions in summer I suppose for short periods on some peaks. For a rack I would take baby blue, green, black, and orange metolius cams, a set of stoppers and 8-10 slings. I would bring some bigger pieces for gendarme.... Oh and nope I have no idea what the conditions are like. Even if I was up there 4 days ago I would only guess. You'll probably have to stick your face into it on your own... Quote
fleblebleb Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 I'd be apprehensive about the section above the wide crack on the second gendarme pitch. I remember a bit of face climbing there. What do you guys think that would be like given the current conditions? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Stick yer face in it or shut up is what I think. Quote
Lambone Posted September 23, 2004 Posted September 23, 2004 Fleb, I remember a hand crack with solid holds upto a big ledge on the right. 5.7 maybe the ledge could hold snow for sure, probly in the shade most of the day. Quote
pms Posted September 24, 2004 Posted September 24, 2004 Anyone have a good look at the South side of Stewert this week? Maybe from I-90. How low is the snow, how white is the Mtn? I would like to climb the wimpy side tomorrow. Quote
JETT Posted September 26, 2004 Posted September 26, 2004 nad lowe, don't be such a pussy and climb the n. ridge, complete. the top is a mere 1/3 of the stunning n. ridge (and much less vertical). if you want to get some good lichen smearing, i recommend the bottom half. if you are hell bent on climbing only the top, bring cramps, the glacier is an icy mess. i wouldn't sweat the gully. oh, yeah, bring containers for much aqua. p.s. good luck. Quote
JETT Posted September 26, 2004 Posted September 26, 2004 the containers for if the route does dry out. Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 Anyone have a good look at the South side of Stewert this week? Maybe from I-90. How low is the snow, how white is the Mtn? I would like to climb the wimpy side tomorrow. A light dusting on Saturday morning, pretty much gone by Sunday evening as viewed from I-90. I hope you got on it and I hope you spell it correctly in your climbing journal. Quote
NadLowe Posted September 27, 2004 Author Posted September 27, 2004 Decided on West Ridge for Sat.- less snow (no snow!). made a wrong turn and ended up rapping back on route. Ran out of time as we got a late start (6:30) and had no time for wrong turns. Still an awesome day. Route was completely dry, and it was perfectly sunny. Encountered a lone mtn. goat who looked at us very curiously and figured later that it really was hypnotizing us off course as its presence marked the beginning of our veering off route. Quote
pms Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 The larches seem a little earlier this year. Nad, maybe that was you with the map (brilliant) who helped get our group of 4 back on route? Beautiful day, and it sounds like more to come. Quote
NadLowe Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 Yes. That was us; however, I believe it was my long-haired friend who had the map. Quote
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